zoothorn

well I was sort of assuming I needed them.. maybe I dont then!? I think RHS can drop off to stream bank/ ruled out this side then, so if just doing topside (LHS) I make it ~£55 to get the bits for this. If its £75 to get a 'pack' for both sides.. kinda makes sense to do both! so erm.. As usual I admit i dont know me oorse from me elbow jfb.

@joe90 I have a hardwood door sill, usual jewson door frame pack type (builder did a slate door sill as a gesture, so this was redundant from the extention build). Can be cut down obviously.. will this do-? looks similar'ish to my old window one, rotting away. Internal sill I'm best keeping, if I can, as a base- then add a new bit ontop of it/ simplest.

Hi Peter- usual garden muck, backs will be fine scrubbed as you say but its the fronts worser: I'll try baking soda + vinegar 1st on a broken one see if any good.. then brick acid if needed. Might have to be 'rustic worn' look I think, was never gonna be a perfect job this. Sealed? I got 250mls of Mattstone tile sealer/ 1/2 a tin left. Will have to do! pricey stuff. I put this on my grouted bathroom tiles (I was adamant the colour was coming off).. so I think could be done post grout: maybe even the grout & sponging it off etc will ruin it if done before laying-? mapei grout is quite strong stuff iirc.. & I'll have a lot going on w'me fatso tiles plus 5mm spacings. No damn non-rapid setting mapei adhesive stuff available.. or the others either: seems everyones doing the same here. Got one mapei one via RM tho coming sat. Damn 1000x packs of spacers.. such a huge placcy waste/ I'll only use 100 tops. Who the feck ever uses 1000?? thanks- zH

You mean use this disc.. in my drill driver, or elec drill? Might have to wear my cricket box Joe. Found mapei non-rapid stuff toostation.. gonna help alot. So just gotta prep all the tiles, all been outside for many years. Would you suggest try clean - with exactly what Im researching, inc brick acid as suggested- before laying, or once laid?

Hi Joe- good I'll use 5mm spacers then. Afaict @ screwfix, all the mapei ones (used 2x before/ know great so best I continue with mapei) are rapid set. I need all the help on this, so mixing a heap then stressing about when its gonna go off, or wondering if it has done or not, or even using gone off stuff.. is the last thing I need tbh. 5mm might help me out too.. trying to do without cutting any, unless you might think I can cut with something other than an angle grinder-?

Actually hang about. It seems all these are rapid-set? Im wondering if I need non-rapid if Ive never done a floor before Also the spacing between these 9x9's.. use my bag/ same 3mm spacers as my bathroom & kitchen tiles? I know its my choice, aesthetically, just wondering about the very high tiles (totally unlike any Ive used before, in kitchen & bathroom for eg) if squeezing in the grout job is made any trickier. Thanks- zH

Great- thanks for link Peter/ nipping into town now.. & yup got the drill thing/ trowel. zH

As customory, a musical interlude @ page 10, to keep all my 1000's of followers from from self-harming. ("There was no way to get a 'coptor in close.." If self-harm is actually induced by it, skip to majestic clarinet solo @ 2.30 to make it better). zH

Stolen my thunder Joe. Is it just mapei standard tile adhesive & grout, same for floors as bathroom walls i did? nothing special need cos its a 'load bearing/ walking-on floor'?

@joe90 aha.. that bent metal idea seems simplest. Forget my timber chunk then.. didn't see this idea Joe, terrific cheers. @Onoff apologies I can't quite figure out the screw/ machine screw end things idea.. I can't picture it, as I've never seen these before i think. Dont worry I think joe's idea might work..? if I can find a bit of metal. any old rusty bit's ok surely if no water gets under here once gutter on. grateful- zoot

I think Ive worked it out-? I'll fall off me perch if so.. @Onoff 's idea adding timber.. but simpler. 4x3 timber ~10" long bits screwed under t&g roof board (so perp to gutter) shape the end to wiggle round the baton under roof lip, & cut its end at an angle- to make it vertical. Hopefully not get heavy enough to stress the t&g roof section its attatched to, if I put 3 brackets/ 3 timbers in each side. thanks chaps. zH

Sorry chaps Ive been deluged with work, plus simultaneous gardening threads & 3 on a music electronics site too: I cant & cope with any of them! Great ideas/ suggestions muchos gratias. The pack it out with a block idea @Onoff is too big a span to achieve really.. the overhang is 10" you see. I like your reverse-cowgirl-inverse hook idea.. but as Joe said how would I access it. I thought of packing out the edge with a wedge, to make it vertical.. but then my gutter sits to far away-! -- I think maybe joe saying dont bother with gutters is becoming more appealing! but defo need it top LHS side, t'other side its a luxury tarty addition really, as it can drip off onto stream bank 10' below (but I'd thought of making a small platform here, to access underneath the cabin, a useful storage space: so a gutter would be of use). Hmm. JSH would know what to do. I am summononing him. thx tooting-zooter.

Yup- even better than an ipad photo in the rain. Great help Onoff. Ok so I could, I guess use the flat types.. & drill holes through the roof edge underside baton, also through wall toppermost bit (where Onoff's vertical wall line is at its highest point).. & stuff the sods in. ? Or fashion the roof edge so its vertical, by adding a wedge/ (pain to undo hundreds of felt nails @ edge tho, & the wedges will likely rot too). Or make short galv whatnots somehow myself? (I mean ffs.. why cant I just buy cabin roof mini gutter brackets already?!?) I just cant understand, if cabins are -so- ubiquitous, why these mini gutter metal brackets arent primarily designed for them, & not full size houses which never have mini gutters on (with soffit facia/ vertical boards most often just there, negating the need for any such bracket at all) with traditional rafters they seem only to be designed for: then how you would be expected to access/ get them onto the top of any such rafter anyway/ if so.. bemuses me. An utter farce, unless, Im being VERY thick..

True/ ok will take a better snap.. But I just thought log cabin roofs are A) so simple, B) so ubiquitous, C) i thought the simple construction of this type of roof (4x rafters.. parallel to the gutter/ roof ridge/ roof edge L &R > roof board nailed in perp the them).. was seen from the thread. I just thought log cabin roofs are so frequent, & so simple their roof construction was just known by all. I can only assume then that the reasoning was, that my rafters, are like std full size house rafters or something, numerous etc, plus 90*... to how mine actually 4 are running front-to-back.

@Onoff no it doesn't unfortunately. I understand clearly this is how these two types of bracket would fit/ are specifically designed to fit, as your photo shows. I knew this days ago by watching a video clip, chap says flat one fixes from above to top of rafter, t'other one to the side of rafter. But I cannot understand how in the 1st top pic, anyone is supposed to gain access to the topside of a rafter, if guttering is an after-addition to the construction of a roof. Remove the whole roof 1st-?! well yes you could do this I guess. If A) I had such a rafter to contend with, I could simply just plump for the 2nd twisty type (& just forget the topside bracket.. even tho I cannot fathom how this is a feasable if the roof is built).. but I don't. And B) if I had such a rafter, & for some bizarre reason wanted to instead plump for the flat-top-mounted type, then I could rip off all my felt, remove all my t&g 24x (x2 for both sides = 48) roof boards, in order to gain access to the rafter top. Then replace the whole roof again. Now, I am stupid, yes I hear you all holler, but I aint -that- stupid. Leaving me the twisty type option. But I have no rafter in the underside-of-roof-eaves-area-each-side to fix it to! I need mental help- immediately. zH

Im still totally lost as to where these galv brackets attatch to. I know this might seem incomprehensible & simple to all. I am even starting to wonder if I have early dementia, because I seem to be getting stupider & stupider, job to job. Seriously (!?). I even watch a video (someone emailed or linked to- but I cannot find it) but even that makes no mention or shows where on the cabin they fix to. Im getting all sorts of conflicting info you see emailed from the supplier, twisted types suggested (but nowhere to fix them to: 'rafter they say'.. b b but I have no rafters along under here!). Or the flat types 'fix under roof tiles' they say (so under the felt, but on the roof top maybe-?!). Or with these 'fix perp to rafter' they say .. (what fkn rafters are you talking about supplier-?!). Ok. The only place I can think these [flat types- the twisty ones are an utter mystery] attatch to, in my cabin, in any normal log cabin.. is simply 'under the roof'. To the t&g roof, under the 10" overhang. Parralel to & onto one of these 24 (if there are say 24 all allong next to each other) t&g boards. So where Onoffs arrows are (but why any mention of 'rafters'?? why not just 'under roof'??). Could someone please help? I'm going insane & I think I need mental help. thx zH

I think PeterW was right.. they seem -just- ok/ by a gnats I'm ok in/out the old door ok. So just to cut the b'stards, & clean them all up.

Aha good idea. I'll have some excess gutter, so use that under the shoe (shoes come with kit). So topside of slope is easy/ can do this as gutter can rest on ground.. because the pad is @ this corner 1" below cabin flat frame it sits upon. My other back side- not so easy. Ive got the pillar high above the pad. So the shoe will only divert water an inch or two.. so it'll end up on pad, & cant use gutter as nothing to lay on, unless somehow suspended jutting out. Will have to do this side over time I think. Get a pic up then ideas might come. cheers Onoff.

Hmm ok if you think perfect height then I'll do a full dry test/ a good number of them.. with carpet under. The reason is door frame height Peter. Not entrance door (these tiles are -perfect- for this upvc door, negating the 'wrong' step-over threshold & down 2" into porch). Its the pitch pine old frame @ only 1780mm that's the problem, same H as me! If I was a little fella- no probs/ whack quarrys down. I sort of use the useful depth of the porch, before my slate hearth, to sort of facilitate getting under the frame > in! (I think.. will do your test idea tho).

Understood Joe. But if that involves A) an awful lot of plaster hacking (its a tidy job as it is), and B) alot of replastering I'm not skilled at.. what about the idea of 'digging out' the frame (so there's like a trench running up each side of perhaps 3/4" just onwards from the plastered reveal) then filling this trench in with mortar flush as poss to the plaster ? then the frame sits next to these vertical mortared channels L and R. Im not sure if my idea has merit, it certainly isn't me saying "I know best/ I'll do it this way" no way hosay.. I just cant see undoing & redoing the plaster as anything but a very big job, for me. In fact its probably highly likely my idea is idiotic.

If your site is only one with a shed kit saving me alot of hassle, plus you suggested it which I trust 100%.. that's the right choice! free post too. Could you help here tho Onoff: when my 2 downpipes are tucked into the back cabin corners, they'll innevitably exit rain onto my concrete pads sited directly below. I think I should've added something under the galv pillar shoes on the concrete pad tops.. because I see a permanently wet lowest 6" of each pillar after any rain, because I assume they're 'set into/ standing in' water (even if I do my best to drain the pad tops) & capillary action draws moisture up maybe. And I can't access the lowest part of pillars to creosote- a job I plan to do in the summer/ whole base. So, my achilles heel seems to be the pad tops.. & exiting gutters onto them doesn't seem ideal. What do you think-? Thanks zooter schmootz.

I think I'm not going with these 9x9's. They'll add too much height relative to my old slate step, If I kick myself once put on & I'm stooping to enter house or keep hitting me bonce.. I'll have bodged up badly. Do I need any dedicated floor tiles then, or are wall & floor ones the same? I guess it might be a Q of putting weight on.. do they need to be thicker than std 1/4" or so wall tiles I wonder.

Understood Joe. If it goes in say 3/4" past the plaster.. then do I have to remove 3/4" of plaster all the way up to get frame in: or, should I go with my plastered reveal W as my frame width, taking 5mm off each side to be on the safe side? Probably a thicko question.

Ok I just wonder how far in the frame goes then.. this is the problem. I've got one loose thick 9x9 tile put down as a test for height. which I keep tripping over. Not -quite- finished yet Joe no.

Understood. I'm beginning to think now the frames been fixed in (at time of kitchen end extention put on, 80's maybe).. then both rendered over the frame by a little, and, on the inside the same: plaster I think has gone over the frame edge a little too. Looks tight & well fitted! but that doesn't help me tho. So I guess I have a choice like you suggest Joe. Defo chip away from inside? I guess you mean plaster is softer/ easier to hack off-? thanks zH