zoothorn

Progress yesterday.. the fischer tube just needed 1cm declogging both sections, then worked again great (with nozzle kindly sent by GW). So my 2 back posts to do onto resin'd studs.. then spindles & 4x2 handrail today.. these two will let the side down a bit, but can be redone next year with better timber. Thanks, zoot

Finally all smart n tarty.. many thanks chaps- great result. Zoot

Hi GW.. you're a gent- thanks alot! I see on the amazon page 'frequently bought together' showing my fischer stuff with it.. so presumably fits; I can't of course take my nozzle off to check 20/21mm or it'll go solid I think. I'll pm you now. Zoot

Hi Onoff, I think I'm ok with plan as was, for the 6 posts fixing ( notched then fixed to existing outside of lower frame, & I had turbo screws ready for here 2x in each notch > frame: could replace with coachbolts if I felt the it all not super solid). The back two posts adjacent to the wobbly wall.. also needing a resin bolt twds the top. This the only tricky bit really. I had this ^ idea lined all up, & some bits bought y'day. The top rail: 5x2 checks out at 4-3/4 of course.. so get some/ chamfer edges & I have my top handrail. (You were right again I think). My timber braces across: tannalised 3-1/2 x 1-1/2.. I found in town. So just looong spindles to source, the 1-1/2" square jobs i found... looking like will have to do. One other thing: I wonder would anyone have a spare fischer 300t type nozzle I could buy? £10 for 5x is such a waste of money, & plastic. Red & clear plastic jobs. Thanks, zoot

Aha, that's why this eg was shown ( thanks whoever it was). Right, now I can think of a 2nd way to do this then. I realise if I had gone full height with my posts, then this "2nd stage" handrail job would be plain sailing. Butas mentioned from theoff, I couldn't do those tall posts, myself alone. I could only take on board the design I have chosen. I'm just limited to the materials choice really. I have the blueprint design, which is a continuation of the job I've been copying, & this doesn't use these 3-sections-standard-shaped-handrail-components shown in the UK example pics in recent replies. It uses bog std tannalised timber instead. So I just need to follow my plan onwards, but with a different 'compromised' perhaps choice of timber. Thanks, zoot

The difference with the design I'm going with, I think perhaps means I can't use the "usual" handrail joe90 shows, with spindles fitted into it, the rail timber below that the spindles sit in, & lastly the trim bits put in between. I think the standard way is to have posts running from ground up, & up onward from the deck to then use these "usual" handrail bits that fit together.. all fitting between such posts. My handrail structure, I think, surely needs to be creating more solidity than usual, because I have no posts from the ground going up to use- so I'm effectively making a second structure onto the already-built first stage. I need extra cross bracing, & spindles attatched to side of my built frame.

Im not sure I can get 5x2, but will check. 4x2 would be a lighter load. It might have to be 5x1 or 4x2. Why they make the spindles only 900mm if B.Regs says a balcony handrail must be 1100mm high, I really can't understand.

l get the idea of the plug cutters etc. Good idea. Actually I have both these cutter & countersink whatnots too. @joe90 useful pics thanks, & would look best. I was looking at these in the yard today, with the spindles made to fit the recess too. Thing is though.. spindles were 900mm, the handrail ontop like your pic say 80mm, means I'm 120mm short for building regs. This is the reason for having to think otherwise, IE I need spindles 1020mm for this handrail, plus in between bits for the deck to fix them too. Its alot more complicated. And costly. I think its gonna have to be 4x2 ( fix onto 3x3, should be ok) & chamfer the edges. I think @Onoff right that a deck board will warp @only 1" height. Thanks, zoot

Hi TT, I got it wrong.. I'm gonna be using 3x3 ( I forgot joe90 thought 4x4 a bit chunky) as an afterthought. I think I'm narrowed to a deck board as choice then, being 5 wide. Not bad if I upside-down it: it's got many more smaller ridges than the top's 10x or so. What would you suggest I attatch the notched thin bit of these posts, to the side of the frame with? Turbo jobs, or a bit unsightly-? Thanks

Hi J, actually you suggested 4x4 posts a bit chunky? so then I had 3x3 in mind didn't I. Sorry I forgot my plan was 3x3 before my reply above. So my handrail support posts 3x3. Whether that makes a difference to suggestions I'm not sure. @TonyT I think 6x2 then a bit too chunky, but if you suggested this, & not too heavy, then I know I could go 4x2 as an option. Spindles.. any ideas? or are my 1-1/2 x 1-1/2 tannalised things I've found ok? But chunky mind. But Prolly cheapest. As might be a deck board 5x1 for handrail tbh (or 4x2 even cheaper). Thanks, zoot

Hi Peter, this would look best.. but too narrow (& with it's not ideal shaped underside) to sit onto my 4x4" post tops. I'm going cheap option, tannalised, but don't think there is anything around 1 or 1-1/2" height, & around 4-5" width too.. apart from to use a deck board, is there? Again I need spindles too.. but only see 1-1/2" square tannalised, or 1x 1-1/2". Not exactly ideal spindles theses. Thanks, zoot

Would 4x2 be too hefty weight for the handrail?

Chaps, what timber for the handrail would you suggest? I've looked at options, & can only think another deck board. (Upside down = more slatted surface). Doesn't sit right to me as a choice. Or, only other thing I can see is a 3-3/4" x 1-1/4" rough sawn fence topper, like a horse field fence. Not very handsy-onny tactile.

Hi chaps, my old folks had a smallish bathroom basin fitted 2 yrs ago, but all the plumbing below on show: no pedestal. Maybe went for the cheaper quote for reason it's not there- I don't know. Anyway, is it possible to add a simple porcelain 'aftermarket' pedestal I wonder? 705mm floor to basin bottom. Thanks, Zoot

Thanks markc, grateful for your help. This is quick for me! Thanks zh

All weather Sticks Like sh*t clear silicone big bead along join between frame underside to old concrete cill. zh

Few update photos, great results. Just finishing bits to do/ paint reveal inside & out, varnish cill/ blind up- done. Thanks chaps! Zoot

No I left the old nozzle on- actually the fischer chap said to do this way, between using the two nozzles. So just the time perhaps elapsed since using first half of tube, what 2 weeks ago now?

Haha. Bloomin kids.. Onoff I think I'm ok, & my sketch shows the plan.. so I'd surely have thought, with a strong btm fixing to the frame ( say 2x bigass turbo screws in) that just one upper resin 12mm bolt fixing (near the top) should be ok? I'm thinking if I have another lower down too.. then getting the damn thing plumb, with three fixings to juggle, becomes alot more tricky, for me/ with this wavy render. Separate Q: my fisher resin VL 300T.. I've half the tube left, with last nozzle left on, obviously greyed & solidified, but only half the nozzle. If I get a spare new nozzle & swap on.. is this tube useable? Thanks, zh

He told me 'go 95mm' so I aint got a choice! Rules are 100mm. kick board-?

Baby head SS.

Hi Onoff, fab of you.. in fact I've got 3 spare: so if the btm of posts ( notched) is fixed to frame with 2 screws, then 1 of your tubes say 2ft above/ a super solid fix to wall.. might mean a vg solid 'back' upright support post? Thanks, zh

Hi J, I think you're right. Its really whether 3" is sufficient, strengthwise was my Q though. So thats 1100mm from deck to top of handrail/ top of structure? Thanks, zoot