zoothorn

That'll do for now..

Ok will look into lumens.. last on list to do actually. Now whats the best idea re. stages: new lino next > skirting can sit right down onto it.. or skirting next > then lino to butt up against (or should it slide under?) & can new lino be laid ontop of old? Im thinking would old stuff might be of benefit/ making 2x thick as it were.. plus leaving it means all the black gubbins not exposed underneath: I think a very hard graft job to scrape this off. thanks zoot

Aha ok I didn't know this. So what would be the equivalent say to halogen 40w, in led terms.. or is it same-?

Yes they look like gu10 from pics on www. Aren't led types all that horrible blue/ cold light tho? these may be too bright & too hot but the colour temp is right for indoors, in my opinion being just 'normal/ warm'.

Alot of cupboard refettling this one. I wanted to shift them up 5", as I hate it when they're low/ as often I see this in kitchens, much better just hop on a stool to get to upper shelves IMO: makes better use of smallish space, & light too- the 2 hood lamps fall right across tops L to R. so I had to dismantle cupboard (as socket @ top of c'board now clashed) refaffed xyz/ jigsawed out recess.. now socket's in cab's upper shelf area. Neater. These bulbs tho.. halogen 50w, bloody ferociously hot: I'm surprised no warning or cage around, a kid could easily burn fingers. Too much power. What are the options re bulbs? If I use as general kitchen lights, as looks great/ I tend to do, I must be pouring in ££ if they're so hot.

No- I don't think so Id make a dog's dinner of it. Why have you done before? must say tho the skirting & plinths make lino here a doddle, & I do have the old bit to trace the tricky door in/out areas.. just there's horrible black sticky tarry stuff under which I know the pro chap noticed & murmered about.

Hey thank you Onoff, if magnetic I could use the spaces for storage too. So is it a Q of getting lino done next, before skirting even?

Mikey's old 2nd residences..

I cant understand how these work tho- I dont have 'legs' or anything, just the sides of cabinets either butted up next to another, or single thickness. If the idea if going with mdf is to use the adhesive base seal strips it sits on, presumably to stop moisture ingress, then don't I have to do the same with my mdf skirting then?? both mdf fixed on their fronts to X behind, both contact floor lino. Looking at both plinth & skirting jobs, it seems the right way might be to get the lino down next/ beforehand- as looking at this old lino, it seems to have been put down before plinths then put on. Is that the right idea?

I think Onoff's going to test out carbon-freezing his parrot, whippet, & pet stoat in his 3 weird petsize 'porn booths'.

Looks like the millenium falcon Onoff.. & your shower with Leia in what with her tiled back etc/ I get the picture @ Onoff acres! I'll consider it.. I was thinking more a halogen/ warm strip light . will look into it. might be a bit incongrous to my 'oldie/ beams etc' adjacent main room.. mmm. Ok understood- good link there newhome, Id never had found this as 'kitchen plinth'.. I didn't even know were the relevant words.

No I'm all for the cheapest way here (yr never gonna look close at it) but thought that may be simple mdf, but once 'moisture resistance' is entered in the mix I m not sure why/ assume mdf isn't the right thing then/ don't know what's the right approach. I don't suppose I can get 2.4m lengths posted, so have to rule out wickes & b&q suggestions I'm afraid- thanks for links tho: 'plinth' is a new word in my book as a result. Can light things be added as an afterthought/ optional extra once plinth bits fitted?

What's the deal with the 'moisture resistant' chipboard.. in case of floor spills/ cleaning mops etc? Damn I was thinking why not bog std bit of mdf, if my skirting is just that, but with a shaped profile top bit. Seems that's not up to par for the job. I'm very limited to 'sheds' here. No b&q, or wickes. I just have Jewsons, TP, & Huw's builders merchants.

I like the idea of led lights under the lip! very snazzy, but led: aren't these 'cold' colour temperature lights? my Ma's just had some basic round dome kitchen/ hall light things, & they're this godawful blue cold light. Oncoming car headlights a good analogy- popular led ones seem to be this cold annoyoing blue.

Ok thanks. I need tips on what strip to put along the recessed base area of the cabinets- just under the cupboard doors, below worktops, I got gaps. Now, this was covered with chipboard strips placcy wood veneer/ binned.. so what's the best idea to replace them with? Alas I can't afford to spend £200 on a new hob.. whole job's cost me £500+ as it is, I know peanuts relatyively speaking, but £700 once lino down & last bits done is alot for me: £900 with new hob/ no way cannae do.

Like top of skirting gaps? trying to think of obvious egs..

What the dickens is 'caulk' for? I bought some but I got no idea why or what it is!

Ah I don't know about these new fangled ones. If I knew the cutout hole I made was a universal figure (488x558mm if I recall my 'odd' figures my hob spiel said) then Id be buying an induction in the new year sales maybe. Is this the main benefit of inductions? 'induction' and 'ceramic' words mean zilch Id suggest to mum's & most all folks.. certainly to me.

Your electric cooks more delicately than your old gas hob? Ive never found this with any 'leccy hob.. the best thing I found, apart from the instant nature & probably £less of a gas hob.. is you can turn down the flame to just a smidge, ideal say for rice to slowly steam, or slow pan anything- you just cant do that with any leccy hob (anyone's?) their minimums -all- seem to be way higher (just my minimum seems to be alot more than the usual). Exactly this smidge is what I really miss.

Stuffed it full of 2 grab adhesives & it seems to have filled it thank god.. fingers x'd it won't bulge the box out. good suggestion (sorry dinnae know what 'no nails' actually is- assumed a grab adhesive) Finally got the last twunty thin tile bit cut too- 15 tries later..

Aha thanks for those pics- understood/ looks like a royal sod of a job with zilch to show for your efforts once all done! Yup so 2x twin 6mm2 + earth. Comes in thru back hole > out via btm hole. Ok so I saw where btm OUT exits > to cooker, & nothing there cavity-wise for concern. So its just out/ behind the back plate where the cavity is. I see in your 2nd pic your foam isn't doing any cavity-fill duties tho. This is my primary job to fill. If I can fill -and- as a bonus have s'thing solid to make a new fix for my backbox to attatch behind onto.. great, but its not essential/ I can get by as it is, just. So I just need to go back to your filling with NO Nails suggestion, squirting it in behind backbox thru convenient screw hole. Do you mean grab-adhesive? And is this job definitely not better served with foam (or is the direct contact of foam with the 3-core cable coming in rule out this idea)-?

Do you mean grab adhesive? pink grip stuff for eg. Got two tubes so could try that. Ive got it fixed just about acceptably, with its 2 screws in backbox top corners.. so its more Im concerned with plugging the cavity re. cold than something better for it to fix to. So defo not foam?

Dont worry it'll be shattered by other means before then- Im so used to whacking my big f-off metal curry spoon on the edge of my pan or wok with my other crap 'leccy hob, that sooner or later Im going to forget/ go at it hammer & tongs as usual, & inadvertantly smash the fkr up.

Well whatever big cable supplies this (LHS in pic above) socket + cooker switch jobby. Two 3-core big f-off cables then. I'm just not familiar with what sort of size cavites lurk behind backboxes.. cant judge as lamp not illuminating any back to cavity (so might I be pumping in a whole tube to fill a cavity the size of a buick..). Is foam defo -not- the tool for the job here?