zoothorn

Thanks for this & prior post- soaking up info. Got good weather so need to try get something done on the base today/ tmrw. Shoes here today. St Steel bar & fisher resin buying AM, & Irwin clamps (8mm bar/ nuts for shoes, 10mm etc for timber fixing). Use a sink plug cleaner for holes (similar brushy endy bit) & hoover. Ok I'm all set here. But the basic timber design, & plan of attack I'm not sorted on yet. I 1st need to find something to lift the topside beams off the plinths (Only 1" or so.. I just can't have the whole thing any higher).. then attatch the beam > to the plinth. Like a square of plastic or something. Is the best/ only(?) idea for my plan of attack.. to make the frame, with shoes on, then plonk down onto plinths > mark holes?? not sure if I can manage weight alone if so. And I've got figure out if my extra RH stream side walky cantilevered area is viable (a worthwhile addition surely ONLY IF I can make a separate/ afterbuilt/ additional/ later front deck area.. & the two could be linked to step from front deck >> onto side walky). Can anyone understand what I mean here? this is really holding me up as I've no idea if a separate/ afterbuild front deck area is even possible.

Yes deja-vu me too! As I've explained time & again why u-value is irrelevant to just draw 100mm block/ 50mm cavity/ 150mm TF on a plan. So what aren't you understanding here? I did not need precise u-value info to get the wall thickness as you say I do.. I just asked the builder "what wall thickness do you want me to put on the plan?" Was I asked to put this info on my plan? No. Was there any need to hijack my thread with such info when Ive explained clearly its n/a for what I've have been asked to do, by my builder? No. It is a Build Plan, & a simplified one, as asked by my builder, as I explained in #1. It is --not-- Full Plans as would be done by an architect with alot of detail such as u-value. So u-value is --not-- relevant, to me, for this job . Why on earth is this not being understood?

Hole dia is 8mm in the base. So I guess Im best sticking with this & not enlarging. Cleaning out the hole.. does it need a special brush, or can I improvise with something.. or even blow the concrete out (goggles on etc)?

@Onoff sorry.. is there a difference between a m10 'fixing' stud, & a m8 'resin' stud/ apart from the size?

Ah bugger. Ok understood.. but couldn't I use my brass stepped hole enlarger bit if I find the hole a tad small? I'll be getting the shoes thurs, & then was gonna get the stud & nuts, & drill bit from town to suit anyway.. so cheers for the info/ useful for my Depth. I'm going with fisher gubbins/ screwfix if they have it. A spanner will have to do to.

Ok stop the website everyone pay attention- Im going with 10mm bar & gubbins & nuts. I'll have to get more manly & tackle the angle grinder. How long each bar section into concrete?

@Onoff thanks for those. I have done some YT clips but didn't see these. Found one place for st steel rods, but its the gubbins stuff that worries me/ hardening in the tube (I couldn't figure out your post before re. this).. its expensive so if I mess up I'm stuffed. I also don't much like angle grinding metal let alone hack sawing up a m10 rod. How much stronger/ better is the steel rod method + resin than these thunderbolts? if I can drive th'bolts in (still not sure if they need a special socket attatchment to do up, or a std socket attatchment) I think its the preferable method.

? ok I'll try but I'm stressed. Look just going back to these thunderbolts- only a £few extra on the shoe brackets after all, so cheaper to go with these in fact. Is the idea with these to -not- use resin as well? & how do I do these flange-head hex heads up? (do they need a specialist tool attatchment thing?)

Does this 'threaded stud rod' stuff need to be anything specalist, or can I use m8 steel rod from my hardware store?

@Onoff ok so if I use 8mm bar (I dont have a 10mm masonry bit for m10) forgive me but what size hole to drill, if I'm filling with resin? I'll have to use the bar rod stuff if I use the resin.. its getting costly these 2 shoes & fixing them if thunderbolts used too @ over £50. Before I put brackets on Ive got to establish exactly where to put them. This is determined by the wood guage & design of the square (I cant cope with doing the side overhang bit- its too complicated for me) base above it, to coincide with the 2.3m square walls (@ their outer points). I cannot believe how complicated this is- I feel totally snowed under. Right, so if I'm just doing a square base 1) how do the beams attatch to the posts 2) exactly what dim should I go for 2.2, 2.3, 2.4? Once Ive got this square base I think it'll get easier- but I'm really stressed thinking how I'm going to manage to do this square.

@Declan52 so you suggest use these thunderbolts + resin? I understand the method (small step by step pics I've noted) but do I just ask for "resin"? mastic gun resin? or bolt resin?

Ok understood. I do have access to a grinder (chap's still here but collecting anytime). what about this resin though? is it specalist stuff, is the idea here use the bar/ nuts/ washers + resin?

@Onoff ok understand that, there seems to be some room for a spanner (but enough for a drill? doesn't look like it on the 6x6 shoes). But I'd need an angle grinder to cut the bar off.. or I saw through by hand & a tiny metal saw is only thing I have/ cant see that working. Before I buy these shoe things, I'm concerned about upward pressure (wind will want to lift cabin UP, & constantly too). I don't seem to have any actual fixings into the post bases with these clamps.. so I'm relying solely on squeeze/ clamped sidewards pressure.

@Onoff I can get the m8 threaded steel rod in town ok.. but I don't understand how it could fix A to B (with hex nuts? but they'll surely rust & need a long bit section to go right over rod, to get to nut to tighten.. if so). I'm a bit confused here- this is why 'JFDI' without careful thought is totally unwise. I wouldn't have a clue where I'm at at step1. Ok, how would anyone tighten these thunderbolts up? the shoe prevents a spanner, so you need to get to head from the top afaict.. but the adjacent shoe surely prevents this. A "bit" is mentioned in your link.. but no pic/ Ive no idea what it could be or what tool it attatches to.

But not so easy for me to find? there are thousands of different 'stainless steel studs'.. only a few thunderbolts, which seem a bit like those batten > wall screws that fit the bill to a T. The flange-hex top though.. does this need a special type of hex socket bit job? or is a std hex socket > drill driver the way?

@Onoff thanks for tips on screws. Are they really £10 for 4 tho? seems damn dear (on your galv shoe link.. seems they need a special bit too.. but your pic gold one above seems to be a std hex head).

@Onoff here's your galv 6x6 shoe link again.. https://www.tradecounteronline.co.uk/taurus-bolt-down-shoe-bolt-secure-hot-dip-galvanised-suit-post-size-150mm-6/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIqZjQ69XV5AIVRLTtCh2QLAZhEAQYBCABEgJNvfD_BwE thunderbolts? sds bit?

I did see this Declan, but I can't see what the orange lines does RHS.. Did you mean extend the beam no.3 forwards (& therefore presumably no.4 forwards too) so having -two- cantilevered additions?

One with the purple lines?

This is exactly what I pictured from the off Dave. But if I did choose the overhang RHS.. then I couldn't have another overhang coming out forwards as well could I? I mean that's asking too much of my base surely. In which case I could only think of making a separate, later addition job, of a front deck area.. & somehow stretching it out twds the overhang RHS, & the two to meet. Somehow. But then my brain melts down.

@Onoff I'm back to your shoe link/ matches what I found too. Know what "thunderbolts" are tho? your link has options of + 4x thunderbolts, & + 4x these & bit. And re. the posts.. I can only find 6x6 x 7ft softwood tannalised gateposts, with the nice gently-pointy-ends. Are these right to go in these shoes? Tbh only two clamp-bolts per shoe seems a little light considering some lateral (wind) stress will happen here.

Well no not really, its been the idea from when I was concreting. Its just difficult to explain in words on a post like this, without confusion quickly setting in. I tried my best to be clear where overhang was (I did always refer to it as a 'side' walky bit), & where door/ front was. Understood its my mistake I wasn't clear enough. Apologies chaps.

@Declan52 I freely admit in retrospect I had no plan to get out onto the overhang (other than a vague idea a separate front deck bit would join it & all would be just swell). Stupid sorry. Ive been mulling over how I could make the two join last few days.. but its a no-goer surely, unless anyone can think of a way.

Ok there's confusion I understand now. No Id never planned to access the overhang from inside, only from another front deck. It was always a side walky area addition, my pro chap's idea. I've given a huge ammount of thought on how to construct it, you've seen this. But its only just dawned on me that once I made a separate front deck area, this would need to go right out sideways, in order to meet this overhang area, to be able to walk from the front deck onto it. Tricky. This is why I'm now thinking put the overhang -frontwards orientated- instead/ forgetting the side walky area.. altho it would be useful addition.

As a reminder. This is my front-door-view.. looking back up to house (very long to house, but narrow L to R). My property is a cigarrette. My house is the butt. Once lit @ the other end is my cabin, its side 2m to stream centre. It's other side 5m to road above, ground goes up steeply here. The stream runs all along one long side, 50m. Gdn narrows at cabin end, plus, the damn slope also steepens too widthways down to stream. N'bors across stream. High bank other side of stream. You can see here my front plinth. Between the white bag & rickety post = my door here. To the RHS of bag is my upper plinth (not yet done here). I'm standing midpoint of cabin with camera. If I step off my deck here, at its LH edge, there's a 1.5m drop. If I step off my deck RH edge twds mixer.. I take one step down onto ground.