zoothorn

Anyone know if its feasable to anglegrind the protruding 10mm bars off short, once this resin's set? or is that not a good idea/ too much pressure on them in the resin maybe.

Ok thanks for tips how to use with one nozzle.. but I still just can't establish why I have 2 when to use the other, how long to expect it to harden in nozzle. its too late now/ I had to do it as rain's coming in hard tonight/ last 3 days only window I had. And a disaster- I felt a sponge of air in every hole, the depth was way shorter than I drilled, & altho I spent most of y'day cleaning holes as best I could possibly do, brushes, vacs, bellows.. it seems alot of debris been compacted in the btm of holes.. is all I can think of as to why my 95mm holes only 60mm with alot of the bar protruding (which means my shoes won't fit on too) when I went to put the bars in. Whether the resin has mixed with this debris.. who knows. Damn german overdoing things- ridiculous hundreds of tiny diagrams & no text to say what the heck alot of it means.. & nothing on why I have 2 nozzles or when it might set in it.

Hi- I have resin (fischer). I've never used before so no idea what to expect. The info is so stupidly complicated & unclear I cannot prep properly to do the job. Job: concrete pads, 12mm holes drilled & cleaned. 10mm SS bars in > resin > nuts etc. 16x holes in total.. so a fair few. I got 1 tube of this resin. I have two nozzles: now why is not said IE does this imply the stuff sets fast & so idea is to dispose of a nozzle, put other on & continue? any idea how long until it sets within the nozzle? if it does, is the resin now totally n/g.. or just the stuff within the nozzle? Can anyone shed any light on how this stuff behaves/ sets/ the nozzles/ the cap once taken off the tube (can it be replaced on?). Thanks, zoot

Ok understood. I had no idea it expanded.. so this helps. Right: but its the cap & the nozzles.. I need to know how to use: IE can I put cap back on after using say 1/2 the tube, or not? why have I got 2 nozzles/ what's the design thinking? does it set within the nozzle very quickly, or in 30mins, or after a few hours? Yes getting thunderbolts in would have been too difficult for me. Ok I've set today to do this resin job but I'm not yet prepped with the tube (total convoluted info mess full of too many tiny ambiguous diagrams/ awful) & I'm panicking tbh.. I must do this before rain hits again tonight/ tmrw.

@Onoff can you remind me with this fisher stuff: I have 2 nozzle things. This seems to imply I can use one/ it sets inside it > I bin it.. & I can then use the other. But I don't know- is this correct? if so, could I do half my holes (all 16x drilled ready) > remove nozzle & put back the tube's cap? > set my bolts in > take cap off & fix 2nd nozzle > do other 8x holes. I'm trying to get a clear plan prior to using this stuff, or I risk it either setting in the holes, or setting in the tube whilst using it.. which would ruin the whole project. I know its been touched on before, but again its looking for a needle in a haystack without #numbered posts. I have trawled thru the thread to find the posts but can't find the info I need.. its exhausting. I'd appreciate any reminders on how to use this stuff. Thanks, zoot.

@Declan52 can you cut off excess resin @ the top, once its set? is this the idea.. or to wipe off after inserting the rod? And the tube of fisher resin: I have 2 nozzles, but no info as to why/ how to use. Can you remind me how, if I can, make best use of the 2? without knowing how this stuff behaves & "sets in nozzle".. Im going at this in a bit of a panic, blind as it were. I have only 1 shot at this so must prep best I can.. holes 1-2cm too deep isn't ideal but can't rectify. Tbh thunderbolts were the route I should've gone I think.

Actually the back post is happy slightly non-plumb & back beam 1 & the long side beam sitting on its notch are solid: I mean yes prob talking 5 mm's not 20mm/ IE.. it looks ok. Other beam rocks a bit even so (uneven underneath) but I hope once shoe base forced to pad with nut pressure, bending it a mite on cnrs.. it might get solid. Its a damn tricky proposition for me, to get all the pillars & beams plumb & spot-on level doing this 1st time.. I'm gonna have to compromise a bit or I'll just never get the damn thing up. I was thinking of wrapping masking tape round nut underside to protect it & thread top bit from the resin.

Hi Declan- probably concrete's not dead level, &/or a bit in-out on shoe 'square' area.. If I put washers under shoe corners, the weight of the lot on it will just bend it down tho? I thought of shims like this, but the bendy steel prevents anything bar an 8" sliver of something perfect fitted: its a pig. I'm just gonna have to go as is. I got all 16x holes drilled.. now my tape mark on 12mm drill bit got pushed up, so Ive gone too deep by 2cm on some: so the 10mm bar will need to sit 1-2cm off the btm of hole.. is this extra resin below ok? & to set the damn thing in w'out it dissapearring.. put a nut on/ masking tape around btm of nut to prevent resin setting on thread & hang it from the top of hole: is anything wrong with this idea?

Blimey some kudos.. I'm gonna fall off my perch. Thanks RO.. I thought I dealt with this (a v. heavy call) pretty fkn well tbh: kept him happy but showed I was aware of mistake gaining a bit of a bargaining position. The fact I didn't kick up a fuss over this AND the dumper-in-forest police fiasco.. as any other client would.. = some respect from him. Yes- understood: thread's drifted off topic from concrete/ rain > to the build > to police matters > & on to this tricky & stressful situation/ mistake opening a can of worms & hence the many replies. Right time to draw a line.. hope the build can progress A+ from here. The fact I vented some stress out on here, rather than at my builder, has been extremely beneficial in the end.. so thx alot for reading my bllx & apologies if I got a bit shirty. zoot.

I have not made ONE bad choice. No. The builder remains as having the best reputation (he will cover the mistake so nobody hears of it). I have paid extra for his services. The fact that it was all too hastily cracked on with (any builder suddenly turning up at 3pm tues with digger & saying he's starting right now.. & on quizzing him why so suddenly & w'out warning.. "need to crack on.. concrete's coming tmrw").. plus watching him almost in a mild panic so quick he was doing including the critical measuring.. ALL OF IT SHOUTING AT ME MORE HASTE LESS SPEED!! THIS IS THE SOLE REASON THE MISTAKE WAS MADE: TYRING TO CRAM IN TRENCHES DUG/ ALL PREPPED TOO FAST FOR CONCRETE POUR A MERE ~15 HOURS LATER. I hope this is now understood & I'm given a bit more respect frankly.

Hi chaps- took AB's advice & a few days off/ too stressful. So the current situation is: I was entirely correct. A mistake HAS been made. I could tell this from builder's tone on the phone & his answers. So I called on fri, deep breath & dived in to find out WTF was going on. Me "we seem to be 350mm too deep, can you explain?".. him "no, no no its all fine".. me (suddenly concerned the site visit by TFrame Co had happened & all ordered IE deliberately before I cottoned on having seen the mistake & piped up about it) me "apparantly a site visit was due wed, no one came.. wondering if I was needed?". Him: "all done, all measured up (site visit did happen in record time by him & TF Co, without notifying me.. I was inside working all day assuming no work on site/ all quiet), on wednesday, all ordered". Me WHAT?! So.. panic/ suspicions all falling into place -as I knew but couldn't convince one of you-. So builder is simply doing his thing & covering for no2's error by making it seem he's doing it the better way/ override my plan due to his experience. We both know otherwise. There is absolutely no point me falling out with him, or even putting my foot down to demand my floor level is adhered to & celotex & xyz made up to my FFL (as much as I should, & as much as I'd like to). No point, because I am alone here, english/ these guys are intrenched welsh locals, Id be abandoned for months if I kicked up a fuss.. which would mean triple the stress of it ias it is; no point. I have to go with the flow. So, moving forward. What I did hear from him, thank goodness, was concilliatory 'tidying up' regarding the big excess of ground down to the new low level, by way of skimming off the drive area & feathering down to the dpm layer using hardcore (forming my path I never wanted around the perimeter).. & he said 'only a day of digger hire to do', & I'll need my fingers x'd the costs here don't spiral.. they shouldn't. So bottom line is we're both aware of mistake, & we're at a parity by way of me not kicking up a fuss.. & him 1) adding this extra 350mm to my lower room [thank god he said this was the new plan] and 2) rectifying it later somewhat but without acknowledging a mistake made.. to save face. Tricky- but my suspicions proven dead-on correct, we're both on good terms, I do have an extra ammount of room.. but at the expense of the stress for me of digging down an extra 350mm so close to orig house wall: now this is my biggest stress.

Ok here is post with info on re. depth to drill.. but its rawlplug. Onoff you mention it might vary dependent on mfr of the stuff. Have you any idea on the fischer stuff ideal depth?? or do I (do you) just go with this info? I have two nozzles. Why two suggests I might be able to use/ remove nozzle & dispose.. & I use the main tube of stuff another day then with the extra nozzle. Is this true? I understand to fill half way/ found this info deep in the thread s'where. Thanks, zoot

This is the post/ info on the fischer stuff. Looking at tube info its small I cannot see info properly or understand it: Ive no idea how much to put in the hole, what "workingtime" means relative to "curing time". Can the tube be used again or is it spent after a few holes? what's the best methid to use it for my 16 holes (is it conceivable I can use for all of them?). Can anyone help?

I'm really struggling & I'm finding this project extremely difficult. Ive got my L two beams, pillars cut/ notched in shoes, & the 2nd long beam on the pillars. All dry run. Its taken 2 full days to do just this, (4th front beam just cut & end cuprinol'd so another day to dry) & I just cannot get the pillars plumb. I can get diagonal lengths equal, but not the distance between the long beams by 1/2": why this is so is a mystery. The main problem is the pillar shoes on the pads. They're not stable & rock on one corner. So the only way of getting them to sit more or less solidly (IE with the shoes flat enough on pads) is slightly tilted. Its not noticeably so, but the level-bubble is end of its liquid on both sides. As to the resin thing- which I'm considering trying at least a few brackets into concrete by end of week, on the top pads: I have a total of 16 fix points with 12mm holes @ depth of 100mm (for my 10mm dia bars) 8x for 'L' shape brackets (top pads), 8x for the pillar shoes (btm pads). How do I progress using the tube of fisher? I mean I have no idea how much of the stuff I'll use for 4 holes, let alone 16. Are 16 too many? how long to set/ continue with job & fix the bracket on?

@AnonymousBosch understood- it is very hard for me I appreciate that comment. I do need a break but thing is I know my builder will want to cover his tracks/ cover this mistake (bc I could kick up a stink & demand xyz, as I should) & only way he covers tracks is to get onto TFrame Co as soon as/ order 2m + 2.3m.. to corner me "too late its ordered, well if you didn't put the ffl on the.." argument. I just know this is what he's done yesterday, before I'd realise the mistake & call him. He's not answering now which is 1st worrying sign. A disaster at very 1st stage.

NOW can you see how this 350mm extra complicates almost every part of the job folks? Who pays the extra block clad course now to get the building up to where it should be? Do I have legal surity to get them to build up to this overall height? or, am I fkd & can now only legally expect an overall height of 2000 + 200 +2300 + roof? (IE the whole build 350mm shy of the original/ existing eaves- a total & utter disaster).

I can't ABosch.. I have to get onto builder, not to argue my case (its utterly pointless with his experience & my not putting FFL on plan he can pick up on knowing I'm cornered, & he has an escape route for a bad mistake).. but to see what the hell is happening re. the T Frame dims: if its already been started at 2000mm + 2300mm I'm utterly screwed.. & its court cases, as I will not accept the whole thing 350mm less tall than it should be. At least here I have diagramatical proof of the look/ height it should be, so, I hope now my builder has NOT gone ahead with the TF call (aware as he is of the 350mm mistake likely will help him not jump in yet). But who knows.. slim chance he might not be aware its all 350mm too low. But I doubt it knowing how thick these two are. But he's only been on site twice for 1/2 hr each time so fk only knows.

I must have missed this then. I need(ed) to have marked FFL on the wall.. its too late now, its been built, 350mm lower than it should. The slab there is 100mm shy of the FFL. I know this bc there's a lip of block 100mm above the slab pretty likely the insulation. Then the BO talked of chipboard floor.. which was alarming in itself/ another problem/ I do NOT ever ever want a chipboard floor in my workshop (I bet this is exactly what mu builder plans to do, why? because its a fraction the time & cost of a proper screed floor.

Ok so I mark on the wall the FFL level. My builder comes & says 'well a bit late to put that on now!!' (this is what he'll say, laughing at me, or in a grump at my audacity at this late stage). I can't now put a line & ask him to get me to it, its pointless IF he has the argument ready that I didn't put FFL on the plan NOT because this argument is valid -its not- but in order to cover for his guy's/ their mistake (he saw, checked, we both went thru & all looked fine- he didn't mention Id forgotten to put FFL on then). The btm of the big arrow of 2000mm is SO blindingly obvious as to be the damn flolor is seemed to me not in any question it could be anything else. I understand it can be back-filled, & I know this can only be done up to dpc level: but the very trouble is here.. 1) from where do I get 3 tons of earth to do it? who does it? 2) the dpc level is 350mm LOWER than it should be, so any back fill can only get 1/2 way up. This will not satisfy BCO, so a retaining wall has to be introduced: who does this blockwork? who pays? So what do you think the btm line of the 2000mm figure represents chaps? "well.. it could be a number of things" maybe? go on please someone tell me what on earth this could be apart from the floor. Anyone. Go on I dare anyone. Please.

@Tennentslager but back-filled.. with what/ from where?? how, just piles against the side of the build in the gap?? that wouldn't be allowed by BCO surely, so, a trench/ retaining wall is needed. A trench I do not want, or a wretched retaining wall either (& at whose cost if so?)

One thing I just find depressing, is this consensus that the builder hasn't done anything other than follow the plans chock full of mistakes I gave them. Its just so untrue & the total opposite. Its dreadfully wrong, & I do not care one iota how ever many club together nodding with each other agreeing. Not -one- person has even SUGGESTED that the builder might have done a mistake.. & only yesterday they were saying how bad he was, trying to convince me I was wrong when I said I trusted him. Once I show clear cut evidence that he IS untrustworthy/ bad.. eveyone jumps on board his ship pointing out 'he's only done what he could'. Why does this antipathy twds me exist?? its just anything I say/ refute, anything I draw/ xyz wrong.. only for the logic that I don't have the experience they have. Not one person DARES to even say even tentatively 'you could be right, it looks like you might have a case'.. not even daring to cross the line in my favour. Its ridiculous.

Ok ABosch.. but how on earth do I attatch it to a contoured stone wall??

That's perfectlu reasonable as to a suggestion, but it doesn't address any of the main problems. The internal H now is irrelevant in terms of a problem. The exposed old area, the trench dug around, the height of the top of the 2x 9" block as it is relative to adjacent ground all -cannot- be remedied by this. Only if another block course + concrete pour to remedy the situation, could some of these be addressed. My builder will no way on earth do this by 1st agreeing that its an error (bc he's decades of experience knowing how to play such an argument, knowing full well already that a mistake has been made so expecting the conversation/ primed rready with ab or c excuse, playing it that no not them but rather IM fully responsible.. just like some on here seem unfathomably to think). Its an asbsolute disgrace.

@PeterW did you mention the trench area (600mm wide around prob 2 tons min) 'its ok it can be backfilled' later.. if so, with what & from where??

Can anyone advise on how I cover this area up? trouble is the wall face rain will just run down to the exposed area, unless a sealed line is fasten to it/ a sheet fixed & weighted down.. its a fkn disgrace.