zoothorn

I know & I wish, but nope- I'm on my own on this one (don't know anyone in the country let alone here to help) store won't help me either. All I've got to do is take off felt & roof is in t&g strips so get 1st off etc, & walls should be fine, door/window should come off ok I hope.. just the floor might be a fkn b'stard.

Good suggestion Peter- I was going to do this. Have you ever built one? the floor's got a lot of nails well set in I'm not looking fwd to (what they're into who knows), but maybe once roof, door & window off & I then unpick the walls -looks rather satisfying IF they all just sit on on another- I might find a square of floor I could possibly leave as is > transport > & plonk in. @joe90 I guess I'll find out as you say. Its getting the roof off is my 1st prob. Set aside all day tmrw there to dismantle & flat pack it on pallet(s), but I wont have www access.

Here's the sod in Q I'm (hopefully) taking apart tmrw/ deliver ~end of week probably. Seems to be sitting on s'thing or other.. will find out tmrw I guess.

Ok understood- hadn't thought of this fix yet. How best to fix the c'tex to osb, the osb to the frame, & the floor to the c'tex? One thing I'm unsure on, is 3 cabin outer beams. The back beam.. is only fixed by 2 turbo bolt screws each side, as is the cabin front beam (one midway @ spanning across plinths).. as is the very front deck beam. Ideally I needed some form of joist hanger/ bracket thing, like the far more rigid/ secure adjacent joists themselves (which the cabin's load doesn't bear upon). The two outer beams are fine/very secure.. but the back & front cabin beams.. are alot less secure. Anyway sunday's work..

Hi Peter- what would be advantage of scaffold boards over tannalised 3x2 tho? so in this ^ eg, you're not putting the osb3 sandwiched between the frame & the scaff boards.. but added later, inside-? What about how celotex fixes to asb, & ontop of the celotex, how is the floor fixed to it?

But surely scaffold boards aren't 50mm high- isn't this the reason you suggested 3x2? as the 2" side will be the same height as the insulation, so it comes up to the top. Or am I missing something- probably.. as I'm very, very thick.

I might go dismantle it tmrw > deliver to me tues.. & store in house so it won't get soaked/ good idea to get it 1st before I do anything else, Ive still no idea how the base & floor works. @PeterW assuming I get the OSB down/ shed walls & roof up on the 3x2 frame ontop the osb.. is the thinking then to just lay the 50mm insulation on the osb.. then just the wood floor (maybe tongue & groove fitting strips) onto the insulation? IE not fixed just laid on? What thickness OSB? and is it OSB 3 I'm after (what does the 3 mean/ signify.).. sorry for a few more Q's. Thanks, zoot

Good idea. No cabin/ shed is still up in the agricultural merchants (really quite second hand hence £550). Ive got to go deconstruct it, place it all on pallets > them to deliver it. Roof needs refelting, some wood panel bits rotted need renewing. Its got to be carefully worked out when to undo it, when to haveed deliver (not happy with me/ time spent on the base! but no idea of tricky job over slope etc/ or me doing alone) to avoid sitting in the rain either there in bits on pallets, or here s'where.

Hi Declan, shed won't sit directly on the OSB, no I understand the perimeter 3x2 is for shed to sit on directly.. but the 3x2 ontop of the OSB, is effectively the shed's load on perimeter of the OSB.. surely OSB is not designed for a load to go on it: is my point. Osb day 1 then shed day 2. Yup that makes good sense/ understood. Insulation and final floor day 346. Not understood: ahem.. page 346 thanking you.

Understood. The front deck bit (where the cabin will not be).. here the 2 joists Ive put in are at 450mm centres, so if I put scaffold bords on this area with wee gaps etc.. would 1 centre noggins be ok (looks a bit big gaps) or should I double up & put 2 in? And do these noggins' ends need to be cuprinol'd.. or will the fact that they're nailed & flush to the joists mean painting their cut ends not needed?

Yes going with Peter's idea, just trying to get my head fully around it. You mean my overall 4m height?

Ok understood. So the shed will sit on the OSB.. but I'd have thought over time this would be the fallible 'layer' you see.. especially here as its rainforest wet.. so is it defo ok to put the cabin walls (the cabin load) onto the perimeter of the OSB? Are you suggesting the way a typical log cabin is built, is the floor is put in last/ so I can build it standing on the OSB.. then once roof on, fit insulation > floor inside? What if there is a time delay between the OSB layer & cabin onto it? IE rain on the OSB?

Good idea- I know where to get some too. I don't much like that decking stuff/ too 'london boho'. Joe if you have ideas on PeterW's idea on a 3x2 outer frame (on its side) for insulation, ontop of my base as it is now this is.. ..or anyone else? I can't get my head around it, or know what I'm doing to get a layer of insulation between my base/ joists & below my cabin. Thanks all- zoot

Peter- can I pick up on your idea of laying another frame of 3x2 (on its side).. & filling the centre with 50mm celotex. I get the idea, but not the OSB sheet onto which -I think- the c'tex will need to sit. Afaict this OSB looks moisture-prone on its edges (I think its chipboard?). So unless its shielded/ goes inside of the new outer 3x2 frame, its edges will be exposed to weather. But, if its put inside the c'tex will protrude up 12mm or 15mm above the new frame. I was going to put joists in today, but not sure exactly at what height to fix them.. IE.. in order to negate this 12 or 15mm protrusion, maybe your idea was to set the joists -down- by this ammount, so the c'tex top will be flush with the 3x2 frame-?

Ok thanks for the info Peter.. it's still room for interpretation (in my view) by pesky sods tho. IE if the "building" includes the pillars.. & the ground's measured from here.. I am at cusp of 4m (& +50mm is crucial). I sometimes don't worry totally unneccessarily you know.

Sorry hang on a mo.. where is the ground level measured from again in my case tho if my ground level's all on a 45* slope? it surely could be said to go from approx where my low-side tubes are exposed a 1ft or so.. or from 1ft below the floor, on the top side.

Ok good- no marine ply expense! I'm roughly on board with this idea Peter.. tho it does raise me up 50mm (already I'm a bit high tbh.. & prob tipping the crucial 4m mark height, if some sod wants to measure from the lowest area of exposed rigid black tube that is [below lower pillar pads] to apex of cabin roof that is.. if measured from onwards 2/3m down from very btm of pipe up- Im really stuffed).. you see my new n'bors already prowling a bit down here, & may well check with planning I'm allowed to do this project. Ok so the OSB sheet doesn't extend to the perimeter of frame, but 3" inward of this.. so moisture won't get to its edge. Is that the idea?

Ok the idea is, a log cabin going on/ above where the 4x corner pads are. So is it neccessary to put a layer of board/ osb or wpb ply ontop of the joists as a bed before the cabin goes on? I just ask bc pricing marine grade ply means 2 sheets at £75 each: alot extra I hadn't accounted for. The front bit is a deck, so will cover this bit last with decking.. unless, I need something on the joists & before it too-?

I think I understand thanks. As the nogs are only extra surity, not for surface fixing to.. is it sensible to push them down a mite below surface so whatever sits above isn't jiggered by the odd nog protruding a wee bit? (innevitable on some surely if going for a surface flush perfect finish). Then I'm onto insulating it.. & then what's the idea, to top it with some form of ply? is this neccessary?

This is what I'll do as hiring a chimp is expensive now @ £150/ day.. 3 weeks.. £450.

Hang on its not the last small noggin thats the prob.. as I get access to fix it however small, via the outside/ 400mm gap. So its getting access to the last-but-one normal nog.. within the small gap. Unless I train a chimp with chimp small nail & hammer to get in there I cant fix it. Or am I the chimp? who the fk is teaching who here?

But I cant get access to put in the noggin, if I ve got a small gap left over.. this is why I'm trying to get them even. Apart from brain cells, am I missing s'thing?

Very good point! understood.

Another Q soory. I 'm having trouble working out my 5x joist spacing. I just can't work it out to mean the 5 are equally spaced in my 2170mm gap. If I divide 2170 by 5.. this doesn't work. Or by 6.. doesn't work. What on earth am i doing wrong?

Or same galvanised.. that means non-rust I think/ surely I need for rain exposed posts.. or not matter then? boring Q sorry!