Huckleberrys

Viessmann 100w come with a 15mm elbow I believe...pre bent. Or at least a 15mm connection. I forget. I always increase in size immediately after that.

Hello, after some advice. I have a couple prices 1. A viessmann 151A 2. Panasonic aquaera I was wondering if people have got either of these and their views on them. The prices are very similar so I can't base my decision on that alone!

Can anybody recommend manufacturers of roof windows that are flush mounted...like conservation style. Planners are insisting. I would like triple glazed and air tight also if possible. Thanks in advance.

I think this is the way...forgot about this stuff whilst I was thinking about it all. Thanks for input everyone.

I meant "insulation upstand" not "i solution"...fat fingers sorry.

For the rest of the barn I was thinking of basically making a raft with pir...no worries about it bursting or anything due to it being enclosed in 2ft thick granite walls, but thought for the extension maybe best to use a proper product with built in upstand. I wasn't thinking frameless...although as narrown a sight line as possible.

I was thinking of going for a steel frame, with external supports. The amount of glazing part is not the issue, that is fine. It's just if it's possible and the detail of doing it with an insulated raft. It's only 3x5m the extension.

It is an extension as part of a complete barn conversion. Only 2 windows in the place currently! And the rest of the barn will have very low u values with a timber frame built internally.

And planners are stipulating it needs to be fully glazed...believe me I'd rather it wasn't!

Roof won't be glazed, just 3 sides...you can get some pretty decent u values on windows these days!

Hello I am in the process of designing a fully glazed extension and was hoping to use an insulated raft...does anyone have any idea how this would work with floor to cieling full height glazing?I can't exactly sit the windows on the I solution upstand!

How did this all go? Any issues with the microcement? I am thinking of a similar finish but wanted some real world people's experience. Thanks

It is an air separator. Cold feed and vent connect in to it...Flow or return go through.

Nobody wants a 3m wide triple panel radiator on their wall though!

I wouldn't and couldn't install something for a customer that is going to cost them more to run though! I'd be the worst in the world in their eyes. I agree insulation and improvement to their homes is the key but when a boiler breaks and they need a replacement they don't always seem keen to completely remodel the inside of their houses!

In rural areas a lot of traditional buildings, poorly insulated. But yet you are correct...not cost effective. I am not going to install a heat pump for a customer which won't heat their property as it is leaking heat faster than you can put it in.

The trouble with this though is that heat pumps will not be right for every house though, especially retrofitting on older properties. I have advised as many customers against them as I have fitted new ones in other properties that are suitable

You can't have worked with many decent plumbers then! I always insulate the lot, no point wasting energy putting heat where it shouldn't be!

Possibly...I just use my Yorkshire cleaning pad that I use to clean copper pipe.

Zero issues using compression on hep or any other plastic pipe. I have probably done more than 1000 over the years with not one leak and never any thought that they may leak down the line. I find if scratch not too bad a fine cleaning pad will smooth the pipe fine. But if any concern at all just cut it out!

With a combi boiler it wouldn't be that easy a swap to an ASHP. I'd stick with mains gas also is the house is as low a rating as you say. Heat pump may not get it warm enough!

What sort of heating system do you have? Is there chance for an upgrade there to something more SAP friendly?

They can be quite a large affair. I wouldn't want it above my head really. You can get complete grp e closures with tank and pump the lot which I guess can be sited outside or in a garage etc.

Those accumulators are ok, although they need to be sized correctly. If you are going down the route of all this cost you are much better off spending a bit more and having a break tank you can then pump from as much as you want!

Just a quick note...you can't actually put a pump on your incoming mains which exceeds 12 litres per min...I think what you have there definitely would. You need a break tank to store the water then pump the stored water. Whole home boosters that just provide the 12litres per min are rubbish...I expect you have more than that currently.