Huckleberrys

How did this ever work out for you? Now trying to design some lighting for a renovation project and keen on this idea.

As a gas safe registered engineer it makes me so mad when you come across installations like this. They need to be strung up on the city walls! And have the nerve to ask for more money to set the stat up as well! I fit viessmann boilers alot...the stat is only working in the mode you have it in as he has not selected the right tick box during commissioning! Also viessmann flues are not meant to be screwed, they are designed to allow expansion in the pipework. They just need to be fixed with an appropriate bracket at every joint...not hung off one zip tie. If I was inspecting this boiler from just that picture it would be classed as At Risk and with your permission be turned off. Go straight to Gas safe. Highlight the issues that people have raised. Then take issue up with plumber and builder. If he installs like this for you then he is doing it to everyone and his work needs to be got on top of. It doesn't matter if you have that certificate or not...its completely worthless if its certifying something that is not certifiable!

Vapour control layer should be good...I will be doing it myself. Will also have mvhr.

It had a new roof put on 12 years ago. Slate, baton, membrane, rafter, purlin, a frame. I was thinking about putting some membrame under the rafter so the rafter depth would be a ventilated void but then wind proof the area insulated then air tight under insulation.

Hi. I am soon to be undertaking a small barn conversion. I am just in the process of sorting some bits out. In the loft I will be having fibreglass insulation...would it be good practice to provide a windproof membrane on the underside of the the rafters so I don't have wind blowing up and over the top of the insulation?

Is the festool worth it? Better than a handsaw?

I didn't mean it in thst way...just better to test how they recommend just incase there ever is an issue. At 18bar with water in you definitely find the leaks easy enough!

Bear in mind wavin will want an 18bar wet test done for 45 mins. If there ever is a problem down the line and you wish to claim from them they have machines that can test if it has been tested correctly!

May be a stupid question but I am in the process of putting in a solar array on a metal clad shed. Do I need to earth the panels and if so do I need to do each panel individually or just one as they are all connected together. And if so what size earth cable do I need? Thanks.

In theory it will be in a 100mm screed with a house heat loss of 1.3kWh. 110m2 single storey. I just thought the thermal store would be a useful addition to save using expensive electricity if a top up is needed during the day. I'd have to run the sums to see if the extra outlay is worth it against the cost of the electricity.

My solar pv could also heat the store during day which could help at night via a series of thermostats and motorised valves.

Hello. I am toying with the idea of a Willis heater to heat my slab during cheap rate electricity. What are peoples thought on also during that time heating a thermal store of maybe 200litres with a immersion heater so then if a top up of heat is required later in the day it can come from the thermal store rather than the Willis?

As far as I am aware the closed cell foam is completely water, vapour and air tight.

I have been told...although I haven't seen any calculations...r value very similar to that of PIR which kind of makes sense. I am right for room in the build so to get the U values I want I thought it made sense. I will have MVHR so vapour getting trapped shouldn't in theory be a problem. When I get the price, hopefully tomorrow, I have to take into account that I won't need any damp proofing on the stone wall, vapour or air tightness barrier so there is less work there and thermal bridging will be taken care of in one fell swoop as the studs will be built away from the wall and the insulation sprayed behind and between. Just a baton for a service void then and plasterboard, it all sounds very easy 😀

I'm not too interested in that side of it. It's a timber frame inside a new barn conversion that will probably never be sold. I'm interested in the science behind the idea of the mixing.

I am considering spray foam insulation and my supplier has suggested approx 50mm closed cell and then build the rest up with open cell. Does this make sense? They are suggesting the 50mm will do the air tightness and damp proofing etc but then the rest of the depth to use open cell to save on costs.

So wire each side in series and have each side as a string. Ideal. Thanks

It's a solis hybrid 6kw 5G inverter SOL-6K-RHI-48ES-5G-DC. 600vDC max per string...I can't see how many strings it can support although two connections on the base of the unit (2x DC positive and negative) for panel connections so I'd say 2 strings

Hello. I am about to install a 7.3kw east/west array. There will be an equal number of 8 panels on each side of a shed roof approx 15degree pitch. I am using a solid 6kw hybrid inverter. My question is about the wiring...Best to connect each side up in series but then connect both sides in parallel? There is no overhead shading. Thanks.

Thank you. That is all. Best get that form done.

I am planning a 8kw self install with battery storage. If gbere is a way of stopping any export at all do j still need to apply for g99 approval? Thanks

I am planning on converting a small barn and I have just got my bat survey back and they have found evidence of a small number of lesser horseshoe bats so now require a full survey but that won't be done until May. I was hoping to start work ASAP even though I don't have planning yet and now won't be putting it in until May at the earliest. My question is...as planning will almost certainly be granted in the end, how far do you think I could go now...insulate and concrete floor etc? Roof was never going to be touched as it was replaced 10 years ago. If questions about work were raised there is no come back as there is no reason why a barn floor couldn't be concreted anyway!

It's a completely separate supply. I already have 4kw on an East West roof on my supply!

It would be DIY fitted. Although initially a holiday let I would probably move in there one day.

I did last night actually and got about 3500 Kwh per year which I thought was OK...that's where this forum comes in and my knowledge ends...is that worth it? It will be on a holiday let so I don't imagine the yearly usage would be that much so may benefit from a battery and an EV charger for myself!