Canski

As long as it’s well supported like @Russell griffiths said then that’s all the support it needs. Carry on with the infill. I usually wrap some foam around the vertical pipe if it passes through concrete or screed.

Not according to our beam and block manufacturer and the NHBC inspector today. I see the sense in it though.

Seeing as there is no visible support in your photo and If it is a half brick thick wall I think an L shaped lintel would suffice. Prop the joists chop out and insert the new lintel.

No you don’t need to. DPC below the beams and a DPM on top of the beam and block that laps up and joins your buildings DPC.

If my car and my dishwasher broke down on the same day I would mend the dishwasher. Mine is ‘Wi-Fi enabled’ but after thinking that Wi-Fi can’t put the tablet in the machine I didn’t take it any further. Edited to add … I just wrote a long detailed post about summerhouse cladding but whilst putting a photo up I managed to lose all of the text. That’s me and technology for the day. Footings tomorrow 🕺🏻🕺🏻

I'm sure Stevie wonder could improve on that after 10 pints on a Friday but .... This is my bugbear with T & G insulation. This type is not so bad but that Xtratherm plastic faced crap boils my piss. Ok the bats need to be fixed tight against the walls which isn't difficult. I can't understand why anyone has a problem doing this. Then come the problems with the ties going over the tongue. I cut a slit in the insulation for the tie to keep the insulation boards tight to each other (top to bottom) but as you can see from this photo the ties have 'drips' on them so the slit needs to be oversize in depth to accommodate the tie. This means that you often need to cut a slit in the next row of boards. NHBC correctly state that cavity ties should fall towards the outside so the brickwork skin should be slightly lower than the blockwork skin which makes it even more difficult. Sometimes you have a 10 mm air gap in which you need to fix your retaining clips which can measure 10 mm in thickness leaving no room for play. Of course you then need to be careful removing snots from the back of the facework and God help you if you are 2 courses up from the tie and catch a clip and send it falling down the cavity. Bear in mind also that sometimes the clips are not really tight on the ties and get pushed back by the often warped bats of insulation. The only way to use this is by building the blockwork first and letting it set properly before fixing the insulation tight against the blockwork then taping it remembering to slit your tape at the tie position then clipping it hoping that the clips are not cheap shit internet clips. I therefore charge an extra £5 per m2 over full fill for this insulation if I have to do it. I don't work on them but a lot of the guys on 'house factories' don't get a penny for it as it is 'included in their rates' It is no surprise that they cut corners and get so used to cutting corners that they don't know any different. It is of course possible to do a great job but T&G is not a user friendly product. Full fill or blown cavities any day for me.

Good advice and well worth a try. Personally I wouldn't even use it in a shed 🙂

My opinion as a bricklayer who cares about insulation 😂😂 what they have done is awful. That insulation needs the joints taping and then clipping back hard against the blockwork. This can only be done with the blockwork built first. I would let them ( as they have agreed to do) take the blockwork down and rebuild with full fill cavity bats. You will be left with a load of waste insulation for the skip but that is the best place for it. The cost of this waste insulation should be deducted from their payment. Any bricky worth his salt should know how it is fitted and if not should have researched it before the crash bang whallop. They won’t be able to tape the joints with the brickwork up. It is possible to use the existing insulation without taping and get it tight against the blockwork but you would have to stand there and watch them.

Another plus for full fill cavity bats. That job is a pathetic attempt at bricklaying. I’d sack them now.

@Dave Jones 125 mm bats are readily available and (depending on the block used) can easily meet the new regs.

Some years ago we cast concrete lintels in situ behind brickwork that was connected to the concrete using expamet. This could be the same in your case. An angle is a solution depending on how you install it.

When the brickies or engineer have set out the walls drop the steels in then. They can then be built in. This will ensure that they are in the correct place in relationship to the building.

I’m not so sure. On the estate where I used to live the brickwork was built straight on to the window frames. Even the garage door 🙄 @Sunil237 If there is no lintel there ( even if just in the brickwork skin) you need to get some temporary support in there pretty quickly.

Noooo For the small extra amount you want the right boards. Our plasterers thought we ere mad with 2 x DB board on all partitions and tile backer board and Aqua board to bathrooms. Getting it put in the right places was another task but worth it in the end.

Room for more insulation ?