Redbeard

My understanding is that Legionella cycles (to 70ish degrees) are generally set for about 3 a.m. - ish - to reduce the risk of scalding. In terms of asking questions, I suppose one would be 'is there anyone likely to use the hot tap - in the middle of the day - who is not aware of the Legionalla cycle at x o'clock on y-day?'.

...and steam it? Make a home-made steam-box 'fuelled' by a wallpaper steamer. We could also start a thread re the 'scariest wood steamer I've seen'...

The one I have used in Yorks has a branch in Fleet, North Hants. Not South, I am afraid...

I think you can probably build the duck house as ancillary accommodation or a tool store, but the ducks may require PP.

Polite letter as suggested above but, the Planning officer's mind being set, addressed to Head of Planning and chair of Planning Committee and copied to Plg Officer. Ask them how a start as described could *not* be seen as a start and a locking-in of the permission. Copy it to the complainant too?

I have no particular comment re the prices, except that if I thought the quote for re-bed exg was OK I'd go for dry ridge, if you see what I mean. I strongly suspect that the roofer has added a 'faffing factor' for the fact that the PVs will (if my guesstimeasurement is correct-ish) preclude the use of conventional roof hooks, and 'sitting astride' (probably not in the HSE handbook but some people's 'bag') looks impossible too. Have you yet got a 2nd (and 3rd?) price? If you were not specific in your request to the 1st roofer (perhaps 'can you sort the ridge out?') maybe use the 1st roofer's quote (if it is specific) as a template so that, as far as you can tell, you are comparing like with like.

Can you send pics? Shrink the file size. uPVC windows? Lots of 'plastic plank'? Draughts behind the kitchen units? (Just a guess or 3!)

I think you are right in that. Also are those DC isolators in the low spot? How well are the cables taken through the insulation? I think you could maybe prove that the area-weighted U value may work (though I am more au fait with refurb 'backstop' than new-build) but so many other shortcomings identified (is the insulation to the pipework just unfinished?) that I think it is worth grasping the nettle. BTW please use high-quality (and strength) air-and vapour-tight tape. Foil tape is not necessarily strong enough in tension (for example where you turn round from PIR to blockwork).

@Russell griffiths, it looks like the a/t layer is somewhat lacking anyway. Some blue foam but no tape that I can see. OP, can we have a pic taken towards that block wall showing why the cyl could not go leftwards?

Hmmm.... Well, you could (if indeed this is the case, prove that the *area-weighted* U value does meet the B Regs target. I don't rely on area-weighting much since, however you can make the numbers work, you still have an area of lesser insulation where a moisture issue might occur. Is this refurb or new-build? Have you worked out the U values? If you post the thicknesses and relevant areas I am sure someone could work it out for you. Is that under-layer 75 or 100 - cannot quite gauge it from here. How much is between the rafters?

No, but possibly see link below for some general views on Chines slate quality. I have never used any Chinese slates.

I had to look up 'polycrub' but it seems to me that you have what you have - a glazed space with no shading (?). It will get hugely hot if not shaded, and I am somewhat (very?) sceptical re what 'IR blocking film' will achieve. Shading inside is arguably too late. Can you throw sheets over the top? For what? What are you trying to use it for? The worst situations I have seen are where organisations have a conservatory built without quite knowing *why* they are having it built. They then try to use it as a meeting room or whatever and it is too bright, too hot, too... etc... A polytunnel seems even worse.

If you have the clearance I would use the grey plastic pipe-sleeving, but *not* the 'economy' (approx 10mm wall thickness) stuff. Bldg Regs-compliant stuff has 19-25mm wall thickness, so on a 15mm pipe that's up to 65mm dia. Many pipe runs leave nothing like that much clearance, which is why the hessian wrap you show gets used. Definitely use the plastic stuff if you can.

Yes, I know I should not have lost it, and I know I can buy a replacement, but asking on the off-chance that someone has burnt out their saw and has a guide to sell! Thanks.

Yep!

Not sure I can tell from as much as I can see, but bear in mind that not all stone-built houses were built for 'show'. Some were made of poor-quality stone and always rendered (though probably originally with lime).I have seen a couple of badly-eroded houses which were 'de-rendered' and beautifully lime-pointed only to start deteriorating after a few frost/thaw/frost cycles. I only wonder just because this looks *very* random (as if 'not for show'?). Could be entirely wrong. What about nearby houses of similar style?

?@ShedaSteelThing'?

(permanently-running + humidistat-controlled over-ride) dMEV?

Cladding/EWI?

Yes, lower R per cm. Some suggest that phenolic may shrink more than other plastics though I have found nothing to corroborate this. Don't know about the cost but I would expect phenolic to be pricey. I have used graphite EPS, wood-fibre and Rockwool (the latter only as a 200mm high fire-break above 1st floor ceiling level).

Yes, the point I was making is that if fire is a particular concern you may wish to use a completely non-flammable insulant such as Rockwool.

I don't think I have ever seen PIR used as EWI in the mainstream EWI industry. (On Grand Designs behind cladding, yes, but not in the mainstream). Phenolic (marginally better for insulation value than PIR but more expensive), graphite EPS, Rockwool (is fire a concern?), wood-fibre? What will your finish be? Render? I would model it/get it modelled (preferably in WUFI, but any condensation risk assessment software (some on here use Ubakus) is better than none. You are looking for potential for collection of moisture within the wall thickness without an obvious exit route.

I don't know anything about the performance of Westmorland slates but I have a 130-year-old welsh slate roof and have just roofed my extension in 120-year old Welsh. Are your slates all shot? If not, what percentage do you reckon are dead? Add about 10-20% to that estimate and that may be the percentage of better reclaimed slates you need. Have you looked at local reclaim yards?

Can you post 2 pics? If it has you standing beside each of 2 elevations with a yard- (metre?-) stick all the better.🙂

Including base-coat, or is base-coat and mesh already on?