trialuser

Not saying this is right or wrong, just an observation, but. I imagine you reasoning is to deprive a fire of any fresh source of oxygen? But given that in fires, people almost always die of smoke inhalation before they are roasted, might it be a good idea to leave the ventillation going to remove some smoke and introduce some fresh air? Or perhaps fire is known to travel between rooms in MVHR ducts? Although most will be a star layout to a distribution manifold. Genuine question.

I haven't read all of this thread, but here is my tuppence. I have a dry ouput of my fire panel (so you could use a relay if not using a panel) connected to a zone in my intruder panel and programmed as fire. I then get a notification if the zone is triggeered in my intruder alarm app (Texecom) You could also use outputs from the intruder panel to switch other devices on or off, via relays or not, depending on the device. In a previous house when the kids were young, I has 5mm leds in the ceiling every meter or so from bedrooms to exit doors which were switched on in the event of a power cut or a fire activation. They had a 48hr 12v battery backup power supply. Seems to work ok.

I agree with you, that is exactly what I have done, although you may be replying to the OP

Yes there is a seperate thermostat - but Mitsubishi call it a thermocouple so I suppose it is not just a bimetallic type thermostat. It measures the temp of the water and passes it on to the controller which then decides whether or not to switch the contactor depending on what temps / settings are programed. Not sure where it is. On mine, the only feed to the immersion is via the diverter so it can only switch on when electricity is being diverted or if I switch the diverter to manual overide.

I have just replaced the immersion cut out on my 8.5 ecodan 250L cylinder. It is just a safety cut out, set to about 80C I think. (see pic) There is no way to set the desired temp on the cutout. The water temp is set in the ecodan controller and it gets the signal from a thermocouple in the cylinder, which switches a contactor feding the immersion. You cant connect the feed from the diverter directly to the immersion, it has to go through the contactor which means you need to change the settings to tell the unit to use immersion for hot water, not the ashp and set it to be on during solar hours. This then stops the ashp ufh circuit from working as it thinks it needs to heat the hot water. I replaced it with one which has the conventional temp settings and also a safety oveheat cutout enabling a direct connection to immersion from the diverter. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/223408932236 It's a simple dry plug and play push in replacement.

I've got a Brink, but this type of post is excellent, thanks very much.

I found this video helpful when setting up my ftc5. It looks as if you have got your offset turned down 2 degrees from what the curve is set to which also wont help. You could also try changing it from comp curve to say fixed flow of say 35 degrees just to test if that works. Sorry I don't know anything about external controls.

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99% sure mine just screwed onto a 3/4 inch isolator valve. Perhaps have a cup of tea and try again 😁

I believe its their safety device whereby if it detects an abnormal flow of water, eg a leak within the machine, it cuts off the supply. As far as I remember, mine just screwed into the existing house plumbing EDIT, Aquastop

My advice is that you talk to your air con installer at an early stage. You will need to use an f-gas bod. There are restrictions on the max pipework length to each indoor unit. The insulated pipes (a pair to every indoor unit) are quite bulky, easily kinked, the insulation is easily torn (and then at risk of condensation forming) and should be a continuous length from external unit to the internal units.

Not necessarily, it will sometimes read those and get upset if it thinks youre speeding, but it doesn't brake. The phantom braking seems to happen at any random time (when using cruise control) for no obvious reason, sometimes a shadow on the road or something you can guess as a cause. I daren't use the auto steer functionality, but I do like to use the adaptive cruise control which is when it happens with me. Tesla call it traffic aware cruise control and I understand it uses cameras to monitor all around, not just the distance from the car in front. I live in rural Dumfries and Galloway and it really doesn't like the roads around here. Probably the wrong car for me at the moment, should have kept the old Volvo. Charging cost is much less than diesel though, and would be a third of the price it is at the moment if Octopus would give me a smart meter, that's another gripe !!!😊 Apologies to the OP, I've gone well off topic, I'll shut up now

3 main reasons Phantom braking phantom braking phantom braking and then, minorly, auto windscreen wipers which dont work, unpleasantly hard suspension, very expensive insurance, over intrusive corrective steering applied for my safety, massive depreciation, all contact with Tesla service has to be done via an app with very long waits for appointments, very few physical buttons for controls like wipers heating and lights, crappy voice recognition and a few other thing which will make me sound even more petty. Good points are charging network and nippy to drive. I knew most of the above before I bought one and thought I could live with them, but they are starting to niggle, and the phantom braking is terrifying.

Currently not that many cars can accept a 22kw home ac charge. Tesla model Y for eg is 11 kW max. Don't buy a Tesla by the way :-)

The ME Engineer app gives this for L9