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Roz

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Everything posted by Roz

  1. Ah I thought it would be able to do the heating too, but admit I haven't thought about it very deeply and it seems to make sense it wouldn't cope with doing both. So that rules that out for that reason too then I guess!
  2. Thanks Peter, I thought there must be a reason they aren't being talked about everywhere. I'll set aside some time for ASHP and tank searching soon then!
  3. So I think I have come full circle away from a Sunamp and back to using our cupboard for a water tank, to be part heated by the ASHP we were already planning to have for our downstairs underfloor heating. When looking into ASHPs and tanks, I came across these, and wondered why they weren't more of a 'thing'. Does anyone have any thoughts? Would noise be an issue? How do they differ to a regular outdoor ashp? https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/2612/5402/files/CE-ES300.pdf?128
  4. Hello - sorry if wrong section. Our window fitters have filled in with foam around our oak windows in our granite barn. What do we put over the foam? Lime mortar as the rest of our pointing will be? If so, should we seal the foam with anything first? Many thanks
  5. Sorry had to find these amongst the other crap on my phone! Obviously we haven't done the cladding yet. It was a family affair at times. It's sitting on Jackpad plinth foundations which I didn't get a photo of. We probably did a lot of things wrong, but we got there in the end and it's still standing. p.s. yes there were a lot more screws in the plasterboard than the pictures show ?
  6. Hey, we did this, made from SIPs, but not in Norfolk. What size room are you thinking of? I have a list of quotes somewhere, but ours was 9m x 4m
  7. Yeah we have a big roll of Hessian on the go and keeping an eye on the forecast. The first batch I did seems to have dried out OK so far, at least on the surface. Hopefully there will be enough gaps in the weather to work around it!
  8. I think the main issue is frost damage (Just from reading online), but we're down in Cornwall and whilst it's chilly, we are OK at the moment. I should have done it earlier, but didnt get around to it, and now we have a lot of water coming into the building as we've knocked the rest of the old pointing (earth) out... so need to get it plugged up!
  9. Yeah sorry too, realised I havent explained it properly here - I started asking about it in the other soffit thread, which has gone quite off track in terms of my original questions. I was thinking about closing up my eaves by doing so from inside - blocking the space between each rafter. For two reasons - I dont think I can successfully cut a soffit to fit nicely along the wall of our wiggly barn, and I'm also not sure a soffit is the right look for a barn anyway. The tilers put a ventilation strip along the edge of the roof so there's ventilation from that, so figure I can just block off the rafters ( i was originally going to put insect mesh over them)
  10. My only thought about doing this was that you won't be able to see it as it will be 'inside'. If it was for a proper soffit I would use wood, as we have done for the barge boards, but for this I just want something watertight right?
  11. Can I just jump on this thread instead? So to block up my eaves bit by bit from above, I had thought wood, then some sort of sheet was suggested, but what about just using PVC soffit board? What do you cut it with?
  12. ?soooo , eaves / soffits. @AnonymousBosch I saw your thread and was going to post my question in there but didn't want to hijack... I don't know the right etiquette! So yes, warm roof. Basically it has a vent strip under the tiles, so I can block the eaves right? There will be a 30mm gap up to the ridge. Cutting a soffit well seems like a job I don't want to do, so cutting chunks of board or wood to fit the eaves gaps internally seems easier and I can glue and screw then seal around them. I dont mind the look of the eaves from underneath as they are now, and a soffit maybe isnt that fitting for a barn anyway. Can anyone else agree/disagree to make me feel better about making this decision? Thanks @Sensus for already doing so, I'm not going to try and understand whats going on so will just try to stick on topic, which I admit now seems off topic, but there we go. I cant seem to get Medite down here, so maybe marine ply would replace? p.s. I should put insect mesh over the vent strip? with... gaffa tape???? Lol. Asking so many questions in one post is probably a bad idea but I have a bad habit of rambling.
  13. I hadnt heard of this before!
  14. I did do this, but 24 hours and 30 hours afterwards it was still too wet, but 48 hours after I think maybe it was too dry. I'll try to catch it in between next time and maybe I'll get a smoother finish! Thanks a lot Maybe I'll get better as I go!
  15. Yes 90mm celotex between the rafters and insulated plasterboard ceiling OK great I will look up the Medite you mentioned!
  16. ??? go easy ? I bought ready mixed stuff from Cornish lime. We are going to take a needle gun to the face of the granite later, as it’s got an ugly concrete wash over it
  17. We're using 90mm celotex and about 30mm ventilation gap. We've got breather membrane under the tiles but the building control officer recommended at least 25mm gap anyway. It's a warm roof, underneath this we'll have insulated plasterboard too. Does that change anything?
  18. Anyone got any close up photos of their lime pointing - preferably on stone, that they can show me so I can see what I am aspiring to? I started yesterday and think it looks pretty messy, but am following guidance online. I realise it's a skill, but not one I think we can afford to outsource. Tips please!
  19. Alright.... so we're about to insulate the roof. I thought I was going to put insect mesh over the gaps in the eaves until I realised the roofers had put ventilation thingys above, so I can block the eaves right? Question is, should I do it from below or above? Would it be weird to do it from below? I'm tempted by the small chunks of wood and sealing around them rather than having to make a soffit fit to the barn wall? It varies in width along the length of the eaves.
  20. I got another sample today. They do the profile I want but a bit more expensive... does anyone think the quality is significantly lower for the middle ones than the left ones? I don't want to pick profile over quality, but if it's not that significant then...
  21. Hi Russell, I'm just waiting on a sample from Millworks, they're a bit more expensive though! We're going to let the timber silver, we want a natural but refined look, so think the larch with a shadow gap will do this well. It will go alongside the rest of our granite stone barn. I can't afford cedar but it is pretty!
  22. Hi Joth, I will PM you as dont know what the rules are! I have quotes from other companies too
  23. Sorry I should have said, they're both siberian. Do you think they would vary this much within a batch from the same company?
  24. Yeah when I asked the company on the right if their Grade A was equivalent to unsorted, they didnt say yes or no, and started talking about knots, which just confused me (even though I know why and what they are, but in terms of comparison). Also you've made me realise that the one on the right also isn't FSC certified, or at least doesnt say so.
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