Roz

Fair question @AnonymousBoschthis is all I've got ?see attached. @Onoff not easily by hand and it says in this document not to disassemble it... but I can try harder...

Am I missing something or is this a piece of crap I shouldn’t have bought from Amazon? I bought a wall tap tap from Amazon and I was just checking the assembly and the cover plate doesn’t go over the mixer and it says you shouldn’t dismount the mixer (i cant anyway at least by hand) to do it from behind (which is what I did for the spout) when i I try to get it on it scratches the paint. Send it back? Or am I missing something? i tried putting oil on it but could try harder

We chatted about it, talked about the ASHP and sunamp, granted he doesnt know what one is so wont know the rating on it, I'll make sure I triple check before going ahead with anything either way though and send him all the details I can if we go further with it.

Guyssss.... I just spoke to another electrician who said it would be fine to use the 11kw water heater ??

Thanks Dave I think this is good advise and perhaps not worth the hassle if I wasnt seeing it as a long term solution

The electrician is having a think about it, so I'll see what he says later. I have also asked the plumber for a price on an unvented cylinder. Whilst clicking links on Amazon I happened across these.... my instincts tell me it wouldn't work to have one of these with a refillable bottle of gas connected to it, and it plumbed in to the regular shower mixer... but I am not sure why. I know it would need to have a flue and that sounds a pain. I was trying to avoid using gas, but I'm nervous about how much the UVC is going to come in at! Perhaps this would do for a while until we sorted something else out. https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07D6YW742/ref=psdc_1939510031_t3_B014GZVWLK EDIT i think maybe its a safety regulations thing

A little west of Truro!

Aw thanks Jeremy, I make pretty damn good cake but probably not good enough to entice you all the way to Cornwall ? Now I think of it there is a website that is still selling them “off the shelf” I think so could always do that if i Do want to sidestep the approved installation. Will have to look into any warranty implications!

Hmm that’s what I thought. Also they aren’t moving the sunamp they want that already in place so take an hour off I guess. They are also coming from the same county as far as I’m aware, the border is about an hour away I thought you couldnt get sunamps direct to consumer anymoee and had to go through an installer? If not I will see if I can convince the eventual electrician and plumber!

I sort of asked because the company SunAmp have put me in touch with want everything to already be in place, plumbing and wiring, and the actual sunamp, then they 'commission' it, but the price quoted for this is £600. They have already told me what size sunamp they would want to install. Is this what you'd expect? I don't know what questions to ask them really.

Yes I believe they are fed from the same mains fuse, I dont know this for sure but I haven't heard anything else is being installed in the meter cabinet. There's about 23 double sockets on my plan across the house and the studio. I dont know about the ASHP as we havent picked one yet, but we only need a small one. The house area is about 60-65 square metres split between the two floors, and the studio is 36 square metres. Google seems to think I'm looking at £500-£1000 for an UVC ?

Gosh, thanks for that Jeremy! So even if we brought the water heater / electric shower down to 30 amps it still wouldnt be OK. So the only option is to run them on the same circuit (starting to understand this, thanks), but can this be done if the cooker is in the house and the water heater is in the studio which has its own consumer unit (i think)? It's not an ideal situation anyway. I wanted an instant water heater to avoid the installation costs of an unvented cylinder, plus the studio will be used irregularly once we are in the main house. I'm starting to think we should have buried a hot water pipe between the house and the studio so it could just use the regular hot water from the house. At the time we didn't think this was worth it as the studio would be done first, but an installer told us we could have just installed the sunamp in the studio and then moved it over into the house when we were ready. Now a;; the ground is back in place so would mean re-digging (7 metres or so) For installing a say 90L unvented cylinder (?) would we be looking at hundreds in labour?

We haven’t got our consumer unit yet as the main house isn’t done. We just have a little garage consumer unit I think so we have a power socket running off that. We are trying to complete the studio first so we have somewhere to sleep while we finish the rest would the priority switch just give priority to everything else over the water heater to save things tripping?

When the electrician rang he definitely said 60A but I have just seen a text from him that says 80A, so there's some confusion!

So I don't totally know the answer to this but I can list what we have going on House: 3 areas of downlights (one room but two areas that you can switch on and off separately, plus landing/stairs) Various plug sockets Oven Fridge Dishwasher 2 bedrooms each with a pendant and plug sockets, one with wall lights too Bathroom with shaver socket, extraction fan, main light Air Source Heat Pump direct to underfloor heating Sunamp for domestic hot water direct electricity overnight no water tank Outdoor socket Studio: (have been told it will have its own consumer unit but will be run off same house supply) 1 pendant light 2 pendant lights same switch various plug sockets washing machine Inline water heater Is that enough info?

If it was 80A would the 45A instant water heater be manageable? Recognise I might not be providing enough information I should ask Western Power what they installed I guess

oh it also says 100A around the side of this?

No idea....it's just what the electrician said. this says 80A on it?

Sorry, I meant because the studio shower will be heated from the water heater. So we have the water heater, then the plan was to go to a concealed mixer shower That description makes sense, thanks. When the electrician rang he mentioned using a smaller electric shower that only has 36 amps. I presume the same could be said of using a smaller inline heater if it was 36 amps too? Both would just produce a pretty low flow rate which will be annoying

I don't totally understand how that would work if we only have one shower being fed from the inline heater in the studio. Then the shower in the house would be from the sunamp (probably).

Thanks Jeremy. Do power showers of the same KW just not require the same A supply as inline heaters then? Do you know what amp I should be able to go up to?

I've contacted various electricians to get quotes and only one of them has said that our studios' indicated inline water heater at 11kw would not work for our supply. The water heaters at this level e.g. STROM need a 48amp supply, and apparently our whole supply from western power is only 60amp. As we're only on electric and no gas, the electrician has said that it's asking for trouble if we leave the water heater in the studio when the house is finished and people in the house are using the oven, other electical items, and then someone in the studio uses the shower. As we've only had one person say this, I thought I would get thoughts here. If we downscale the size of the water heater we will get a lower flow rate which would be annoying. I also really dont like the look of electric showers, hence going down this route to begin with.

So... am I mad? I stumbled upon various videos on plumbing and Hep2O got me thinking I could do the shower room in our garden studio myself........ ? I haven't figured out the waste yet, or the inline water heater stuff (does it just need a regular tap connector, etc - electrics to be done by electrician), but I started sketching what I would need on the attached. I have realised that my planned 25mm service void isnt going to be enough... which might be an issue as the stud walls are up. I left space for 25mm batten, plus 2 sides of 12mm plasterboard / tanking plasterboard. Can the plasterboard finish on top of the shower tray as that would give me the extra inch I need, or does it have to extend down the sides of the tray. Oh and I need to recess the shower and tap valves in the wall, hence the random use of multiple elbows. Is it mad to do this myself? The labour only quote I have had is about £1000 for first and second fix of this bathroom, plus a washing machine round the corner.

How long does the 'commissioning' take, so once the pipes and cables are in place and the commissioning company comes to connect it all up and get it going. Also, what did you all pay for this stage if you went down this route?

OK I got through to an electrician our neighbour knows and they quoted less than £200 so that is better! Glad I had that feedback otherwise I might have gone for it. Thank you!