Alwayslearning22

Should I run my a2w heat pump on a fixed temp of 45? Or would a weather comp curve be better? I would like cheap bills and a warm house? If that’s possible.

Hi all I’m having My front door replaced by the developer. It’s a timber frame house. Is there a certain way they should be replacing the door to maintain airtightness. Replacing airtightness tape etc? I’m afraid they will just tear it out and use cheap foam and put a cover strip over it. To hide the damage. Which will obviously deteriorate and become draughty .

About 300kg over 2 m2. Oh and I should add it’s going to In my attic bedroom.

Im building a walk In wardrobe. Can floor joists hold 300kg of ikea wardrobes? Without causing any issues? Many thanks my

Can anyone recommend a decent bath screen that won’t leak? Not too expensive? thanks

Oh I see. My wall that I plan to use is a shared party wall so I didn’t like the idea of screwing that far into the studs. What length of screws did you use? nickfromwales is using the egger board I wonder is he avoiding drilling into the studs incase of vcl damage?

Sorry to be a pain. Are those battens strong enough to hold up a heavy tv? I need to do this in my home but I’m concerned about the battens strength.

Is the egger board secured to the vertical battens?

Does the egger board have the strength to hold heavy TV? How is the egger board secured to the battens? They don’t look to thick. I’d like to use this set up for heavy cabinets and tv’s. Just need to know how to secure the board. thanks

If I use 60mm screws I will just get through the service void battens and slightly into the pink plasterboard. Would I need to use 80 mm screws? To get through to the stud wall? It gives me anxiety thinking about screwing such long screws through into my party wall.

Thank you for the reply Peter. I should of said it’s a timberframe house. I know the stud would behind the plasterboard and soundblock. Should I drill through all of that to hit the stud? would it affect the sound proofing and vcl ?

I’m planning to install two kitchen cabinets in my utility room from Ikea. I have some concerns about the brackets that came with it. It’s just two screws per cabinet one In each corner. I’ll be mounting it onto my party wall which has service batons which only seem to be 30mm deep. If I were to use 50mm screws which would give me a little over 30mm penetration into the batons, be enough to hold the cabinets securely? or should I cut the wall open and add some 18mm ply?

I think a lot of these heat pumps are undersized and they have to run full speed in this weather. Resulting in high electricity usage

Thanks for the replies folks. You’ve all been a great help as always

Can I ask what size your house? I’m having issues with my heat pump smaller than yours I was thinking it was undersized

My system came out of a hot water cycle last night and the spent the next hour defrosting every 15 mins. It just wasn’t able to get the room temp back up without really struggling. Set at a 40 flow and sounded like it was going to explode. Took ages to settle down.

I’ve came down nights to see the flow at 34 because then thing is so frosted up it’s not getting air. For some strange reason it could take over an hour of this before it defrosts. Temp didn’t drop too much inside even at 34.

My heat pump was popping in and out of defrost all day. Although it was heavy fog here.

Sorry i should of mentioned, i have only radiators.

Should I reduce the flow to 37 degrees to try and reduce defrost cycles?

Thanks for that information I’ve always wanted to learn to do a heat loss calculation. I believed it was much more difficult. I’ll be giving that a go tomorrow. one thing i hate about heat pumps is the frosting up

I can’t make any improvements as it’s well enough insulated. Maybe I can improve by fixing a few holes on the air tightness barrier for pipes and cables that weren’t sealed by the trades. it keeps the house warm enough, it just annoys me that it can’t hold the room temperature when it’s this cold out. Its also extremely noisy during operation and when it goes into its defrost cycles.

It’s reassuring to know my defrost cycles seem to be normal then. I thought it was to often as it struggles to get flow back up again. im not sure of my heat loss. my house is a new build timber frame. sounds like it’s undersized going by yours?

I’m in the east of Ireland so not the coldest of places. Currently it’s 1 degree but past few nights it was minus 1 or colder and it performed horribly could not maintain building heat loss. yes, seems to be blowing ok for the 20 mins it’s not frozen. id never get it above 42, only time it can manage that is when it’s heating hot water and That’s because the pipe run is short. System is 2 years old and never worked properly I think

Hi guys, I’ve a 4.3kw split hitachi air to water heat pump. My house is around 120sqm with this recent cold weather, I’m beginning to think that my heat pump is undersized. It’s constantly frozen even after a defrosting fully it tries to get itself to a 40 flow and then just freezes up again. is there anything I can do to stop it freezing up? Maybe lowering flow temp? it’s on weather comp at the moment set for 42. Never reaches that though.