JohnBishop
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Painting bricks with bitumen DPM
JohnBishop replied to JohnBishop's topic in Waterproofing & Sealants
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In my case anchoring is quite important because polycarbonate roof is going to be a sail and it won't have that much weight like the guy's patio in the video. His is heavy on its own, has 7 posts and is wall mounted!
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I like the Raspberry Pi idea. I have 4 generations of them, some can be repurposed exactly for that.
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Hi again, I look for a PoE smoke detector and CO detector. Or if there is a PoE hub of some sort that reads from these battery powered detectors wirelessly (not Wifi) but some low power wifi. A hub that can be accessed remotely or send notifications. I don't need a proprietary system that can only be accessed with a proprietary app. You see I also want to install smoke sensors in my shed and in the garden office but I don't have network wiring in there. If I go for a regular smoke detector and if I am away how do I know if any of the neighbours is going to react to the alarm? If it's at night then no one will see the smoke. When fire shows up it's probably too late anyway. I think there are some better sensors that look detect temperature difference rather than smoke. I think that's a better solution as it gives you as early warning as possible. I would prefer a notification then I check the cameras and call a fire brigade.
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so this 150mm variant would work for my 6" posts. I would do this for front posts. What would be a better way of anchoring the back posts (near the wall) if I already have concrete there?
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I understand the idea of vertical anchors is unreliable in this case because if the wind decides to lift the roof up it will take these anchors with ease but not if the anchors were horizontal or embedded in concrete. Where can I get these brackets/anchors? How are they called?
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should I use different than Simpson bases? or something that is literally embedded into the cement while it is still fluid. Or even welded into the steel rebars that are sunken in cement?
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Hi again, I am going back to this patio project. 3m by 2m between the posts. The overhanging roof 4.2m x 2.60m at a sufficient slope. I decided to go for 4x 6x6" posts. All 4 will stand on 4x Simpson Post APB100/150 bases. There will be two concrete bases forward, the back two Simpson bases will be screwed to the existing concrete base (by the wall). I have no experience but I really like the mortis and tenon joinery. In this case I would use 5x5" timbers to marry it together. I reckon it would be easier to use 2x12 girders instead however I want these not to obstruct the view from the window so the beam has to be 220cm above the ground (front). On the sides it does not matter but it will end up lower. Then a roof structure on top made of 2x4" to accommodate polycarbonate sheets. The wall is insulated on the outside so I cannot use it to support the patio like it is the case in most scenarios - it has to stand on its own millimetres away from that wall. what do you think about his concrete bases. Is it sufficient or an overkill? I have to put it all together in Sketchup. Any advise welcome. Thank you
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Painting bricks with bitumen DPM
JohnBishop replied to JohnBishop's topic in Waterproofing & Sealants
Yes, the DPC. -
Hi All, I hope you are well. I have the outer insulation however below the damp line there are red bricks. There is some black residue but it's worn out. I was wondering if I should repaint it with a bitumen paint? What do you say? Best
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have any of you come across a PoE smoke sensor and/or other PoE sensors as well?
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Hi again, you said about bottom and top battens but then what about the airflow?
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The insulation will go to my next building I build next year. I reckon it will be some Knauf. Regarding the breathable membrane, should I put it from the bottom over the DPM or start where DPM ends?
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Ok. Thank you. Did you stain your battens with anything? I have seen a man staining them with some green stuff and on the cuts he stained with some black stuff. Will add some more pictures soon.
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Gents, considering that this shed is built from pallets that have gaps not plywood sheets do I need battens after I attach the breathable membrane?
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I come across this man who done his pergola: Very meticulous job however I think it's a bit overkill to my liking, feel too heavy over the head I think too much timer for this size of a pergola. I reckon rated for 100mph gusts. I think it creates too much shade though. I would go for 6 posts tops but the concrete bases make sense. He used the twinwall polycarbonate sheeting.
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I am going to put some concrete bases for this and heavier timber I reckon 150x150mm
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Hi Gents, I am planning to build a 4-leg patio this winter/spring. The patio will be covering my backdoors so the rainwater does not get into the kitchen. I reckon 3m x 4m The roof is going to be simple slope. The patio will not be connected with the building barely touching it. I have external insulation and I don't want thermal bridging. I think about some transparent material to put on the top as I don't want shade. What material would you recommend?
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I think about roof gutter so I can collect rainwater. Are there any mounting brackets that you can screw into the roof joists rather than wall? My roof overhangs for well over 30cm.
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According to IKO the overlap should be between 50-75mm but on Youtube Carpenter's Daughter felted a low slope roof and the overlap was more than a foot. They didn't use the adhesive but nails and the sealant/adhesive from a tube. To me using the adhesive from a can looks like a mess. I would rather go the nails + sealant/adhesive route. I went for this more expensive IKO Super Green Shed Felt. What do you think?
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What is the recommended overlap of the felt on a roof with that low angle? Is it like a 1.5 foot or something? I am going to use OB1 sealant to seal the layers of felt https://www.screwfix.com/p/ob1-multi-surface-sealant-adhesive-clear-290ml/434jf
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Hi Gents, Thanks for coming back to me. I have bought some truss clips but then I saw a video where a pro said to use hangers because apparently with winds 50+mph it can rip the roof open. On the other hand I want to leave that ridiculously long overhang in front of the shed. The Shed is 2.4m deep, timber is 3.6m long, 30cm overhang at the back so 90cm overhang in front. I admit that the location can be windy at times, it is exposed, the wind usually hits from west to east (there is a 5m tall hedge on the eastern side) so the slope raises from west to east. Or I could use a combination of both just to be safe or use jiffy hangers on every other joist. https://www.screwfix.com/p/sabrefix-jiffy-hangers-50mm-x-275mm-10-pack/60964#product_additional_details_container
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