JohnBishop

I wanted the timber to rest on the 2nd one but it looks like the cut is going to be too deep, isn't it? What would you recommend doing? Should I introduce a wedge to bridge the gap?

I think the spacing between rafters will be 60cm. This EZ Glaze looks cool but it's quite expensive unless I can find something similar but cheaper. How far should the overhang reach do you think? Half-way? Of course on the right side I want to cut it parallel to the wall. Do you think on the left side should I cut it square? I think on both ends I should incise these weeping groves right so the timer lasts longer, no?

from the description these are 3mm thick comparing to corrugated that is 1-1.3mm of thickness

what do you think about stuff like EZ Glaze? https://corrugatedplasticroofing.co.uk/collections/ez-glaze-glass-like-polycarbonate-roof-panels

I have heard about that. What else transparent would you recommend then?

I think the only problem I can see so far is those wires going exactly where the rafters will end. I think I have to move them or something or carve out the wood.

Please have a look. This is what I built so far. This is very strong. I mean I could put up a roof and then think about bracing as this is quite strong. I don't put tiles but polycarbonate sheets.

I already screwed everything together. I could not wait before the beautiful weather today I send some pictures later today. On the bases I used M10 everywhere else M12

how is this bracing achieved in such circumstances? I reckon I need an anchor of some sort.

I am putting up my patio and I found two of the 6x6 posts not entirely level when I check with my 1m long level. The reason I am asking is because I am about to connect these posts with the other side to make it a solid square. At the moment it can sway side to side. My question is: should I pull the post in the desired direction to level it then clamp it before drilling holes or just leave it as is without causing the tension? I mean the wood is not 100% straight.

Would you recommend any makers of sturdy frames for the hefty 3 glazing units?

Thanks gents @MikeSharp01 by the way I agree with your quote. There is a stigma attached to this activity and "procrastination" sounds pejorative. Some people don't want you to think but to remain distracted and/or keep running.

Ok, so I go for a single large triple glazed unit and you recommend to factor in this as safety glass. Do you mean every sheet or the one that goes in the middle to be safety glass?

Please can anyone recommend something?

that's very useful information. I didn't know that so ideally you want as few glazing units per window as possible.

Hi again, I think about getting uPVC doors with triple glazing. I could go for double glazed but the point of my question is your recommendation about the number of units per door. To install a single triple glazed unit to cover the whole door would be quite heavy and difficult to do. I think even a double glazed unit would pose some challenges to a man. In the meantime I thought about it and I realised that a single large unit isn't ideal as any crack forces you to replace the whole thing. How about 2 or 4 units per door? I mean if by mistake I kick and crack the bottom one I only replace that one. Does it happen often?

Awesome thank you. You saved me from moving my scaffold back and forth.

yes, I want to work out the size of the glazing unit not the window. The reason I ask is because these windows have beads on the outside and I would need to get a ladder: 1. to measure from outside with beads on 2. to measure from outside with beads off I think the frame inside is the same as the frame outside with beads on, right? so technically 10mm extra for 5mm each side is safe, no?

I saw a video of a man explaining how to work out the size of the glazing unit and he said to add extra 5mm each side from the beads.

Thank you By the way can you get the measurements of the unit itself without taking the beads off? I reckon it does not matter if measured from the inside or outside just add 5mm on each side, right?

I mean I will definitely be looking into replacing my consumer unit with a bigger one and I could look into these fancy devices that go into the consumer unit however considering the fact I am not an electrician or a geek in electronic + the size of the house it's not feasible. I understand that Zigbee is not fool proof, it can die and the sensors will stop working however if there is a Zigbee alternative to Hive I don't think the downtime of the Home Assistant would affect its functions. I just want to be able to configure it once and leave it. It would be neat if I could have the activity logged for future reference as part of other Zigbee devices. What is NodeRED? Is this some competition to Home Assistant? I have seen someone using it in Home Assistant to create automations as flow charts but I don't know how he installed it.

Ok, I try once more with a different nozzle.

Exactly this is what I have in here, Linux with a Zigbee controller. I think I want to start with heating on/off, scheduling then I look into Zigbee radiator knobs.

I know I am necrobumping this topic but I wanted to look into this insulation once more. As we have already established the access to this space is very restricted. On top of that I cannot cut the foam to size and squeeze it in there as there is some wooden bits sticking out so it would not be square. Ideally this should be done when the roof tiles were being put in but this was years ago. Inserting superfoil isn't good either as I don't have a way to attach it to rafters. Can I use something else in there e.g. mineral wool? I understand that it won't be as thick as in the rest of the loft and that I should still leave some gap for the air to flow between the membrane and the insulation.

Man this is dirt cheap.