iMCaan

You're right, the screeded floor is level. I need to work that one out. The tiler said he can get level correct for the water to flow to the drain. I'm meeting him tomorrow so I'll ask him how.

Thank you. I didn't know the vertical trap linear drain was available on the market. Quite dear though.

Hi Our first floor has UFH and is made up of 50mm screed, 25mm insulation, 100mm infill concrete blocks B&B. The entire floor is screeded including where the shower waste will be placed in the wetroom. The wetroom has UFH but not where the shower waste will be fitted. The idea is to cut the screed to fit the shower waste/drain. The waste pipe will run underside of the FF floor (within GF dropdown ceiling to external wall). I was considering the tiled linear wetroom waste like the attached. However, these have horizontal outlet pipes, which has put me in doubt that they may not be the best option. This horizontal outlet pipe doesn't drop down enough to go through about 175mm of concrete floor. Is there an alternative product? What would be the best way to approach this? Some of these linear waste pipes are ridiculously priced £250+ (even so some at around £375) others are around ~£70. Any recommendations? Thanks

Apologies for late reply. I tested stixall extreme power on mf, wood and concrete block. Solid stick. Test 1 - used a piece of mf (had a tiny ~1mm lip on the adhesive side too). Applied stixall and placed it on top of the concrete block a brick on top of the mf to hold it down. Test 2 - used an even smaller and thinner piece of mf (quite flimsy compared to above). Applied stixall on one side and placed it on top of the concrete block. This time I didn't put any weight on top of the mf piece to hold it down. Test 3 - used a piece of wood and concrete brick on top of it to hold it down. Left it to cure overnight. All tests were successful, very solid. Only test 2 had a little play and I was able to see the clear adhesive between the two materials. This was probably because there was no weight to hold down the mf. It was still a strong grip. In all three tests, I could pick up the concrete block from mf/wood. Thank you.

@crispy_wafer yes, UFH pipes. @saveasteading thanks

@nod did use timber or mf? Time to buy stixall extreme power test tube. They claim it sticks metal and concrete.

Thanks @Russell griffiths What do you think about using dustproofer and hardener on the screed and then using the stixall extreme? Thanks

Hi We had 50mm liquid screed poured a couple of weeks ago. We now need to build metal frame stud walls to make bathrooms. What would be the best option to attach the metal frame to the screed? Option 1: Adhesive - What would be the best adhesive to stick metal frame to the screeded floor? Option 2: Lay concrete common brick 65mm (without Frog) onto the screed and then screw in the metal frame to the concrete common brick. Thanks

Hi We will have two manifolds on the GF. Does each manifold need a separate flow and return from/to the boiler? Two flow and two return pipes from/to boiler? Or would it be just one flow and one return with a T near the manifolds? Thanks

Thanks

Thanks @nod Is that 3mil before or after skimming? Thanks

Hi all, We have a 120mm (tape measured) stud partition (70mm MF with timber inside, 2x11mm OSB sheets, 2x12.5 plasterboards = 117mm). Not sure what I should allow for skimming, probably 6mm (3mm either side). Can someone please tell me what depth of door frame I need to order? Thank you

Thanks

I've managed to read through the guidance. I agree EPC is not required for a self-build. I can provide the evidence to prove the house is a self-build (paragraph 5.14): • proof of property ownership (eg a copy of title deeds, contract of sale) • documents confirming you received a self-build VAT exemption, self-build loan or mortgage • an invoice for substantial structural materials or labour (eg foundations or timber frame, smaller works such as re-wiring or kitchen-fitting will not be sufficient) • self-build insurance • copies of bank statements • trader and builders’ invoices or contracts. Property owner So let's see what MCS BUS approved installers quote. Thank you.

This is a self-build house. The attached garage, which is slightly set back, looks like an extension thanks to the planning officer.

What's strange is that my stone built 6 bed house is definitely isn't "keeping with the surrounding area" (affordable 2/3 bed brick houses). My 6 bed house is too dominate, which was main objection, even with the attached garage slightly set back.

LOL extension is already built. The planning officer objected saying the house is too dominant for the street and attached garage has to be set back slightly to appear like an extension (yep that's what he said).

Thank you all. As always a lot more information than I was expecting. Thank you. None of the above. It was just me asking to see how long I had to wait before I can get the EPC for BUS. However, I may not need the EPC as JohnMo states above post. Thanks @JohnMo I will check this out.

Hi An MCS accredited engineer has confirmed that my self-build house is eligible for BUS grant subject to EPC on completion of the build. At what stage of the build is a house considered completely built? Is it when kitchen and toiler are fitted? If so, then I'll be waiting 'till late summer with my current build progress to get the EPC and BUS grant for ASHP. Do I wait that long or do I just fit a boiler? The house is currently water tight, roof and windows are all in. No internal work has yet started. It could be late summer when I move in. Thanks

I want to achieve a minimal hanging ceiling void (none if possible between concrete beam and plasterboard). I'm considering MF but I'm still confused how metal framing is fitted to a block and beam ceiling. The MF ends are screwed to the wall but how is the middle supported? Is it screwed to the beam or some type of clips are used? Please can someone share some product images. Does anyone have any picts of MF on block and beam ceiling that they can share? Thank you

I've not heard of that before. It's probably because of gas extractor fans or air vents not working efficiently. I've had another quote from a gas engineer: Labour only £3.4k (gas boiler + cylinder + 3 radiators + pipes + fittings)

Thank you

GrantUK Supply only ASHP + cylinder + fittings = £8k (not sure about the installation cost) Local Company Supply and install gas boiler + cylinder + 3 radiators + pipes + fittings = £10k Gas Safe Engineer Labour only £4k (gas boiler + cylinder + 3 radiators + pipes + fittings) My estimated cost of equipment £4k (gas boiler £1.5k, unvented cylinder 1.5k, other fittings £1k) I think, it's between GrantUK and local Gas Safe Engineer depending on ASHP installation cost. I have directly approached a GrantUK installer for a quote including installation. Will see what they quote in particular for the installation.

Thank you. My builder also went through the foundation block with lintel over the top. The MDPE is in void under beam and block floor and was covered with concrete/sand mixture. I can't remember what if any ducting he used. I suppose it's still acceptable even though it should had taken the MDPE to the utility room (right hand side of the attached photo) as per architect plans. The reason we're re-locating the MDPE is that it's short, it doesn't reach the footpath. Furthermore, Yorkshire Water want MDPE about 5 meters further away near the gas and electricity trench (see attached photo). I'm not sure that now it's practical to put a 110mm drainage pipe with lintel on top through the foundation blocks. I was hoping for an insulated hockey stick, like that used for electricity cable (attached photo) as probably the best option.

Hi We have an open trench for gas and electricity, which we also be using for mains water supply MDPE. The trench is well below 750mm finished ground level and beam and block floor. To get the MDPE inside, would it be better to drill through the cavity wall into the void below the block and beam floor or above the floor? What type of insulated ducting do I need to use and with what bend to get the MDPE inside into the garage? Thanks