Gordo

I’d say that would be good practice. Don’t think it would wick moisture much or any significant consequences, but you never know. Id guess not a big benefit in going much below level of floor insulation for cold bridging, marginal anyway. I often suggest 1st course of inner leaf from sub-floor/insulation level, should be in thermal block for the cost/benefit

anyone got any experience of sucking out blown fibre insulation I’d be interested

It’s not an issue if the wall is far enough away from boundaries and not supporting a fire resistant element.

Past your bed time

That’s where it can fail. Not a problem if left alone. But uncork that bottle and you can have a handling. I have blown fibre in mine (not my choice) and know there are voids now after 20yrs. Obviously some air is getting in through facing brick and disturbing the blown fibres. Not much I can do about it now. Bit annoying tbh

Don’t quote me but I think you need 1/2 hour fire resistance both sides of external wall. I assume that % windows are within that allowed relative to the distances from relevant boundary. Otherwise the BC officer would have mentioned concerns about % unprotected areas. So you just need to demonstrate that your makeup achieve 1/2 hr FR on both sides using manufacturers declarations such as the British Gypsum whit book

Yeah for a smaller extension it’s more expensive. I wish all brickies were like you, but in reality few are and those that are wouldn’t be the cheapest quote I’d guess

I understood the batts cavity wall insulation the strands aren’t so random but oriented vertically to reduce the risk of water penetration. I would imagine they are treated to some form of water repellent. I could be dreaming this last part tho lol

You won’t get much for £150 other than generic details and specifications I should imagine. Just use the planning drawings and your own generic details and specifications trawled of other drawings, cut n paste like. Wouldn’t suit a bespoke or unusual design/specification obviously.

The difference here is you aren’t providing a service. BCO are and if they offer advice they can be found in law to be accountable for that advice. That’s why mount talk little or carefully chose their works to steer people towards the correct choices But there are many less clued in who do

They may do. But they are not supposed to take on the role of a professional advisor / designer where they could be liable for any adverse issues arising from such advice. LBC duties are to inspect and raise pertinent concern for others to address.

100% agree. I always recommend pumped beads insulation as on balance believe it is the best option. I have seen so many cavities with built in insulation with gaps, not uniform, mortar snots on top of insulation etc. most trades are paid on quantity not quality and with no or poor supervision we get what we get. Then when you are looking for quality the trades default to what they have done or seen done where quantity is king and think you are expecting too much of them. Most speculative builders the foreman hardly leaves his hut to see what sub-contractors are doing as he knows what he will see and if he complains it isn’t worth it to him. He probably had subcontractors forced on him by the bean counters and would struggle to replace them if they left and the next crew wouldnt be any better. NO ONE REALLY CARES. They all say they aren’t going to be living in it and won’t be pay heating bills. There’s no incentive to do any better. Everyone thinks Building Control or NHBC are their supervisors Hahahaha They are often turning a blind eye too now for similar reasons to foreman. The number of times I’ve left a site shaking my head, thinking “What a shit show” the industry has become, and that is with blinkers on. The whole system is broken. Unless you do a self build and try your best to work around it or get a small hands on contractor who you can trust to do same. All more expensive and time consuming if it’s worth it to you.

That’s it. Works a bit differently to others. But quite usable. Especially if you pay. Don’t use it much as I prefer computer for cad

DWG Fast view is usable cad app for iPad. Free version has most of the stuff

Wow that is low for a regular house. spec of house would be interesting. High performance windows/doors? 300 - 400mm loft insulation? MVHR or just passive ventilation? Unknown/known air permanently? Form of house IE bungalow/chalet/house basic rectangle or intricate? What is target/ actual internal temperature Thanks in advance