jayc89

Only really echoing your own findings, but for roofs I'd argue decrement delay is as big, if not a bigger factor. My friend has a new build, built a couple of years ago so should have achieved somewhere around 0.15W/m²K as a minimum. It's a warm roof and they have a room in their loft which is still too warm in the summer and pretty cool in the winter. It was insulated using PIR - so it ticks the boxes but in real world terms it's still not the most comfortable. He's since moved his home office out of there and into a spare bedroom "downstairs".

AFAIK tape and waterproofer is still recommended, and that's the time consuming part. If you're having to do that, a couple of full coats of the waterproofer across the boards takes no time at all - and per m2 you'll save a fair bit compared to backer-boards. I used CT1 when fitting the bath and behind the basin and pan, before any decorative silicone, and when butting the shower former up to the wallboard before tanking it, but not heard of using it on backer-board joints instead of tanking.

MR plasterboard + tanking here - mainly because it's a wet room and I'd need to tank it whatever board I chose, so went for the cheapest and most accessible at my BM.

I made my own. Clamped some 3x2 timber formwork to the wall, and used a mix of white cement, hydrated lime and plastering sand for a yorkstone look. Covered with PIR for the night and sponged off in the morning. Thinking of doing the same for some other openings soon, but will probably cast them in the garage rather than in-situ.

Yep, concealed drainage + compatible sill and you should be fine to seal right around it. When fitting the sill avoid any adhesive around the drainage channels between it and the frame.

That's a relief 'cos it's exactly what I've just done in our ensuite after reading all the tiler forums saying the exact opposite 😆

I boarded straight onto the wall, didn't build it out any. I'd only do that if 1) the gap between the structural opening and frame was wider than the board thickness or 2) for aesthetic reasons.

Depends on the frame and sill. Concealed drainage typically needs a matching sill to route any water away from the frame, and you'd seal and foam beneath the sill, so not a problem, whereas face drainage discharges down the face of the frame, so has a clear egress path anyway. We went for the latter because we had existing stone sills, and weren't using PVC sills. If we had concealed drainage, there'd have been nowhere for any water buildup to escape after we'd sealed and foamed up around the frame.

For context, we live on a rural road, it's not busy by any means, but it's long and straight, which means cars but lorries and motorbikes in particular, come thundering down it. Our living room and, above it, our bedroom front onto the road, so we're looking for some better glazing units to quieten it down a bit. The frames we have (Rehau RIO), accept 28mm units, and we had been leaning towards 4mm/14mm/10.8mm acoustic laminate, the supplier suggests this would provide [41 (39;36) dB], which is probably the best we can expect for double glazing units in a PVC frame. However, we live in a traditional building and astragal bars would look the part - if we add these, the supplier can only offer 4mm/18mm/6.8mm acoustic laminate units, which they are suggesting provide the same Db rating - I call BS, and I'm almost certain they wouldn't be as good at deadening the lower frequency noises we care most about. So our options are: - 4mm/14mm/10.8mm acoustic laminate with Georgian Grid, which don't look as good, IMO, but I'm pretty confident will provide better sound insulation - 4mm/18mm/6.8mm acoustic laminate units with Astragal Bars, which will look better, but, I'm pretty sure won't be as performant for what we're looking for - buy somewhere else Am I over thinking this, or should I stick to my guns and find somewhere that can do 4mm/14mm/10.8mm acoustic laminate with Astragal Bars?

I've used 2x1 treated battens internally in all rooms I've done to date. 25mm cavity and 35mm metal backboxes has worked well for our use case.

Silicone, same stuff I use to fit push-fit drainage.

We have a similar problem - when we re-roof, at some point, I plan on fitting something like these - https://www.screwfix.com/p/eaves-comb-fillers-20-pack/40157

Dry, thick stone walls are typically not that bad insulators, with the majority of heat-loss coming from the floor, roof and a lack of airtightness. Unfortunately one size doesn't fit all when it comes to insulating older properties and the porosity of the stone will dictate how best to detail the walls; a highly porous stone will require a permeable/hygroscopic finish (hemp plaster, cork, wood fibre etc. inc a permeable paint/wallpaper), whereas a less porous stone might get away with impermeable/hygrophobic materials (PIR, rock wool etc)

Companies like Rentokill typically treat symptoms, not causes. "Rising damp" is caused by things like; impermeable materials on both sides of the brick work (gypsum plaster and cement pointing/render), leaking gutters, broken drains) none of which are remedied by an injected DPC and damp proof plastering. Before you start taking lumps out your walls, I'd find the source the moisture, address that and see what you're left with.

Inner leaf of blockwork and blow EPS beads in the cavity you create?