SteamyTea

Whats going on Trump

True, but they may discontinue the service at short notice. I use some cloud services, usually for transferring large files. I zip and encrypt the data. What would be nice is a method that allows me to create an encrypted folder that I have full access to, and can sent a link to others to view, or download, a file. It is the encryption that seems to be problematic as it would need two passwords, mine and the recipients. There must be a way of doing it as it is basically the same as PGP that my email uses.

I fitted a replacement DG unit to my wooden frame a few years back. I made a mistake and it sat hard against the base. The inevitable happened and it sat in some water and within a couple of years it had misted up. When I painted the windows this year, I cut a couple of drainage notches into the external trim (just a bit of timber stuck to the glass). The idea being that any water that gets in, can get out again. Not sure if it will make any difference, may not find out until I change the units for new ones.

Some routers have a USB port that you can plug storage into. Have a look at yours. As you are running Linux, you will almost certainly need to install SAMBA.

Discussed it over at the other place. Joiner and RenewableJohn got together and cobbled something, up if I remember correctly.

I just see it as an engineering challenge. And probably a pretty easy one. Boats have large double glazed windows, any of them survive for years. It may need a new technique, or standard, maybe a compression seal, rather than a permanent one. I remember reading a few years ago in my favourite comic that some silicone sealants were tested out in space. The best performing one as an off the shelf product from a DIY store.

They don't need to report that. You have done it yourself. Think I shall go and rewatch Minority Report. The Baader Meinhof terrorists were pinpointed to a flat because of the sudden increase in electrical energy usage.

There is a book called SPONS that tries to give estimates https://www.amazon.co.uk/Spons-Architects-Builders-Price-Books/dp/0367267039/ Pretty cheap, especially if you have a large floor area.

I understand that, so let us work on it. The way I see it is that you have to allow for expansion, but reduce bending, twisting and shearing. Are there different types of sealant (think they call them mastic) that perform better than others?

I am going to turn that question around. Could you (well the industry) make a double, or triple glazed window that was guaranteed not to mist up within say 5 or 10 years?

You would have almost a tenner.

Not going to laugh. This costing out by the metre square is really a nonsense. There are just too many variables. If you want to cost a house, decide what you want, then get prices for each component i.e. legal, acquisition, services, surveys, professional fees, bricks, timber, cement, plaster, pipes, wires, kitchens, bathrooms, stairs, windows, tiles and so forth. Then there are things like taxes, delivery, CIL/LA costs. Contingency fund is a complete nonsense as that gets blown away almost at the beginning. Contingency=can't cost properly. Then decide it is just way too expensive and easier to refurbish.

I have often wondered this. My old MGB, designed almost 60 years ago, managed without them. They did rattle and leak though. I think it is just a case of getting the right kind of seal. Something like a T section. Then a L section, and the right adhesive.

I have E7 and use 90% in the 7 hour window this time of year. Work on that to start with. I suspect your floor us not insulated, this may cause additional heat loss with UFH. Assuming you don't want to fig the floor up, how much insulation could you lay down. Door thresholds and stairs are the problem.

Makes sense. Just never seen it mentioned when I have had a quick skim through the websites that advertise them. I think too many people take too much on trust. Take yesterday, a German was locked up for convincing people to wire themselves to the mains. How can that happen, are people so dumb, really.

First things first. What age is the building. What sort of insulation levels are there, or construction type. Floor dimensions. How much energy do you currently use. Is the place draughty.

Not sure how a CC on the tails knows what direction the current it flowing. I could understand if it just had a set threshold (or several). Be a bit of a bugger if you charge your batteries up from your PV to then give part of it away for free.

When the shopping centre at Milton Keynes was being designed, there was a lot of concern about noise from the tiled floor, the 'swimming pool' sound. They developed and installed some tiles that reduced this, seems to have worked as well.

How do these battery storage units, which come with an inverter, know not to export power to the grid? With a normal grid tied inverter, any excess power is automatically exported, unless a diverter is fitted. Does this mean that lots of diverters are fitted? I understand that the batteries are charged by a diverter, but it is the discharge cycle I am wondering about.

You may well be breaking the law doing this. There are strict rules about burning waste timber. The company supplying them may also be breaking the law. There is a reason that they want you to take them away. I used to make moulds for PU, what are you considering making them from? Hard and expensive way to do it, more usual to pour/inject it.

As they just buy in HPs, ask them what make/s they are installing.

Me to, the threat of an injunction stopped her.

Must have got a bit muddles, it is 300W for whole house. My current usage is 750W, this is for everything. That drops to 200W in the summer.

when you say off-grid, do you mean sewage or power. If power, then you need to reliably supply ~300W (I think @Jeremy Harris monitors his power requirements). Supplying that sort of power constantly is not easy, probably need a combination of solar or wind with batteries, plus a good generator.

Only got one left, so looking under the kitchen sink for mind bleach.