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I've gone through the whole "elderly parent" thing, watching them struggle with sockets just above the skirting, or having to let go of their walker and reach up to "high" switches. Most sockets or switches I fit or move now are put in / back 450 - 1200mm. Seems very practical to me.

People are where they are in the house-ownership cycle. Maybe their ' push ' to just get-on-the-ladder was (is?) harder than you realise?

It's usually just 4x1" planks, double nailed and lapped to the underside of the trusses. https://nhbc-standards.co.uk/7-roofs/7-2-pitched-roofs/7-2-9-bracing-for-trussed-rafter-roofs/ https://www.tra.org.uk/download/2572/

The same way as you choose to live there, no one made you rent there, you could have chosen a different place to live. Again you would have seen all this, before you signed on the dotted line, and paid the deposit. If you don't like it, move noone is making you stay there.

The xgimi aura is a very capable projector. The Texas Instruments DLP Chip 0.47” DMD is in a lot of these short throw projectors. This guy does a good projector ladder where he covers what you get for the more you pay. There is really only 3 price bands for USTs, sub £500, £1500-£2000, over £2500. He also does a good round up on the various screens. If you go down the AliExpress route you should be able to get a pretty decent screen, just make sure it is for UST, these have different requirements to long throw. UST needs a lower gain. I prefer a fixed screen, but this is so room dependent and not SWMBO friendly. In the projector community they tend to upgrade their projectors a lot. But the screen is a long term investment. Try searching AVForum.co.uk for any successful ALR AliExpress outcomes. Or you might be able to get a 2nd hand screen on the AVForum classifieds, these don’t often make it to eBay.

I can't see any diagonal bracing or binders. I suspect the roof warped a bit and was straightened/strengthened with the extra timber. The 'noggins' are especially suggestive of that. The survey will probably advise bracing is added.

Or a bifold door .

Personally I don’t think those sister pieces of wood weight very much compared to the whole weight of the roof it’s more about sagging which you can measure with a piece of string tied to a nail at one end of the roof (half way down the slope, )pull it tight and go to the other end of the roof, when the string touches the middle joist how far from the joist at the end you are holding! (I hope I described that ok?) some sagging is inevitable but will give you an idea. Very DIYable, biggest problem is access, a scaffold tower or scaffold, don’t try this from a ladder.

Be conscious if drilling into a slab if you break out the other side. You can end up pumping copious amounts of resin into any void. Learnt the hard way when a mate and I were fixing to a cavity wall using the old resin capsules. We keep pushing them in and they were falling down the cavity! With pumped resin like we're on about here you can get special mesh sleeves: https://www.kernow-how.com/ProductGrp/resin-plastic-mesh-sleeves Tbh, for what you're doing I'd just scrunch up newspaper and push it tight down the hole. Try and avoid breaking through in the first place by using a depth stop on the drill. When fixing say a 4 hole base plate then use the base plate to mark through with the drill. Then drill and CLEAN the holes out. Clean holes are paramount to the resin taking. Have your 4 studs sat ready next to the holes. Pump in the resin to each hole quickly. Push a stud in each, with a wee twist. Drop the base plate over the studs which won't yet be set. WALK AWAY and let them set before putting nuts and washers on. Don't worry too much about excess resin squidging out of the hole but do worry about excess resin getting on the stud threads where you're going to put a nut. I clean the holes then drop a stud in loose. I'll then tape the thread with some leccy tape where it projects above the hole. Peel off later when set.

Perhaps for this reason (moisture getting trapped in outer osb layer) Kingspan TEK systems are built with PIR installed internally. The supplier we used has the u-value data for different thicknesses of PIR on this page https://www.clays.com/sips-technical-data

Remember there is no such thing as a daft question, daft is not asking, we all had to start somewhere 👍 yes Coombs and eaves trays best way to stop birds getting in but still allow ventilation, eaves trays support roofing felt that often fails near the gutter so will extend the like of you roof.

Sorry... dodgy 80's game show reference. Ted Rogers would have liked it....

https://www.screwfix.com/p/zinsser-bulls-eye-1-2-3-primer-sealer-white-1ltr/10135

Yes 1-2-3.or 3-2-1 whatever its called. in a tin, I think screwfix flog it. 🤣

Is that like Zinsser Bullseye 1-2-3, but comes in a Dusty Bin? 🙂

Depends what stain blocker was used in the first place. I use Zinser Bullseye 3-2-1 apply with a foam rad roller, apply 100mm beyond current stain. 3 coats should see it off forever.