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K-Rend Bead Thickness and Fixing Instructions


Triassic

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I'm about to start fixing the render boards in place, so started to look at the next stage, applying the K-Rend, I'm not doing this myself, but I am supplying and fixing all the render beads. Having measured for corners and bell casts, I thought I'd better check what sizes I need, but looking on-line there not much information. Can anyone point me in the direction of some instructions?

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Do you know how much money you will save by doing the beads yourself?

 

I ask as I think the beads for my house took the guys around 20 hours to do, not a huge labour cost for something very critical to get 100% correct.

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2 hours ago, ultramods said:

Do you know how much money you will save by doing the beads yourself?

 

I ask as I think the beads for my house took the guys around 20 hours to do, not a huge labour cost for something very critical to get 100% correct.

I’m only supplying them, they’re going to fit them.

 

Every Pound counts, as the budget is tight.

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The bead size depends on the render system. With carrier boards there is often a base / mesh coat of about 5mm and top coat 5-8mm. I hope it is not through coloured. I don't really like the bell cast drip at the bottom.  I prefer it flush.

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2 hours ago, Triassic said:

I’m only supplying them, they’re going to fit them.

 

Every Pound counts, as the budget is tight.

 

I would still be wary of supplying it for all that it will save, if you supply bead that the renderers don't normally use and something goes wrong with the rendering, even if it's completely unrelated to the bead, they may blame the bead.

 

We had an issue with some of our windows not opening, because some of the block work was build too close to the windows. We were lucky that for two of the windows a small section of render could be removed, a thinner bead added and render reapplied. However for 2 of the other windows large sections of render would need to be removed as you can't really path or repair it.

 

I just don't want to see you getting into a situation where you have a crap render job that the render company won't fix because you have saved a few hundred pounds supplying the bead.

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 23/05/2019 at 13:24, Mr Punter said:

I don't really like the bell cast drip at the bottom.  I prefer it flush.

Do you have any photos as I’m about to start rendering you’ve got me wondering if it would look better without a bell cast. 

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9 hours ago, Triassic said:

Do you have any photos as I’m about to start rendering you’ve got me wondering if it would look better without a bell cast. 

 

Not very good ones but the top one is render onto cement board, the bottom one to blockwork.  I just don't like the massively flared look with some bellcast beads.

 

image.thumb.png.8926629555f945d11a18e6fefdef7432.pngimage.thumb.png.2ea73492392dfea8493022ea162c770a.png

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In the render board fixing instructions it states that I should cut DPM into strips and staple these over the battens before fixing the render board in place. I assume this is to stop moisture affecting the timber, I’ve saved all the exterior membrane offcuts (I have a black bag full), I was  wondering if I could use these, rather than buy DPM. Both are waterproof, so should serve the same purpose?

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  • 5 months later...
On 02/06/2019 at 23:50, Triassic said:

In the render board fixing instructions it states that I should cut DPM into strips and staple these over the battens before fixing the render board in place. I assume this is to stop moisture affecting the timber, I’ve saved all the exterior membrane offcuts (I have a black bag full), I was  wondering if I could use these, rather than buy DPM. Both are waterproof, so should serve the same purpose?

Exactly what I did - just use off cuts to cover timbers face .

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