Triassic Posted May 23, 2019 Posted May 23, 2019 I'm about to start fixing the render boards in place, so started to look at the next stage, applying the K-Rend, I'm not doing this myself, but I am supplying and fixing all the render beads. Having measured for corners and bell casts, I thought I'd better check what sizes I need, but looking on-line there not much information. Can anyone point me in the direction of some instructions?
ultramods Posted May 23, 2019 Posted May 23, 2019 Do you know how much money you will save by doing the beads yourself? I ask as I think the beads for my house took the guys around 20 hours to do, not a huge labour cost for something very critical to get 100% correct.
Oz07 Posted May 23, 2019 Posted May 23, 2019 Yeh and if finish isn't good it Gives them a get out. Like when bad skimming because of bad boarding. Let them put them on. 1
Triassic Posted May 23, 2019 Author Posted May 23, 2019 2 hours ago, ultramods said: Do you know how much money you will save by doing the beads yourself? I ask as I think the beads for my house took the guys around 20 hours to do, not a huge labour cost for something very critical to get 100% correct. I’m only supplying them, they’re going to fit them. Every Pound counts, as the budget is tight. 1
Mr Punter Posted May 23, 2019 Posted May 23, 2019 The bead size depends on the render system. With carrier boards there is often a base / mesh coat of about 5mm and top coat 5-8mm. I hope it is not through coloured. I don't really like the bell cast drip at the bottom. I prefer it flush.
ultramods Posted May 23, 2019 Posted May 23, 2019 2 hours ago, Triassic said: I’m only supplying them, they’re going to fit them. Every Pound counts, as the budget is tight. I would still be wary of supplying it for all that it will save, if you supply bead that the renderers don't normally use and something goes wrong with the rendering, even if it's completely unrelated to the bead, they may blame the bead. We had an issue with some of our windows not opening, because some of the block work was build too close to the windows. We were lucky that for two of the windows a small section of render could be removed, a thinner bead added and render reapplied. However for 2 of the other windows large sections of render would need to be removed as you can't really path or repair it. I just don't want to see you getting into a situation where you have a crap render job that the render company won't fix because you have saved a few hundred pounds supplying the bead. 2
Triassic Posted May 23, 2019 Author Posted May 23, 2019 The rendering is being done on mates ratés, it’ll be s grand job, or else !
Triassic Posted June 2, 2019 Author Posted June 2, 2019 On 23/05/2019 at 13:24, Mr Punter said: I don't really like the bell cast drip at the bottom. I prefer it flush. Do you have any photos as I’m about to start rendering you’ve got me wondering if it would look better without a bell cast.
Mr Punter Posted June 2, 2019 Posted June 2, 2019 9 hours ago, Triassic said: Do you have any photos as I’m about to start rendering you’ve got me wondering if it would look better without a bell cast. Not very good ones but the top one is render onto cement board, the bottom one to blockwork. I just don't like the massively flared look with some bellcast beads.
Triassic Posted June 2, 2019 Author Posted June 2, 2019 @Mr Punter what type of bead did you use rather than the bell cast bead?
Mr Punter Posted June 2, 2019 Posted June 2, 2019 2 hours ago, Triassic said: @Mr Punter what type of bead did you use rather than the bell cast bead? Not me rendering! Either a bell cast of the same depth as render or a stop bead.
Triassic Posted June 2, 2019 Author Posted June 2, 2019 In the render board fixing instructions it states that I should cut DPM into strips and staple these over the battens before fixing the render board in place. I assume this is to stop moisture affecting the timber, I’ve saved all the exterior membrane offcuts (I have a black bag full), I was wondering if I could use these, rather than buy DPM. Both are waterproof, so should serve the same purpose?
LA3222 Posted November 6, 2019 Posted November 6, 2019 @Triassic did you solve the bead issue? Where did you get it from in the end?
Triassic Posted November 6, 2019 Author Posted November 6, 2019 In the end I went for straight 10mm bead to give a flat finish, the render guy was happy as it’s easier to get a good finish. The beads came via Hew Grey builders merchants.
Pocster Posted November 6, 2019 Posted November 6, 2019 On 02/06/2019 at 23:50, Triassic said: In the render board fixing instructions it states that I should cut DPM into strips and staple these over the battens before fixing the render board in place. I assume this is to stop moisture affecting the timber, I’ve saved all the exterior membrane offcuts (I have a black bag full), I was wondering if I could use these, rather than buy DPM. Both are waterproof, so should serve the same purpose? Exactly what I did - just use off cuts to cover timbers face .
LA3222 Posted November 6, 2019 Posted November 6, 2019 How thick was the render you used? I'm looking at the silicone KRend and the docs say it's about 6-8mm thick in total so I'm a bit puzzled as to what size bead to use.
Triassic Posted November 7, 2019 Author Posted November 7, 2019 (edited) With a base cost and top coat it added up to 10mm Edited November 7, 2019 by Triassic
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