scottishjohn Posted May 8, 2019 Share Posted May 8, 2019 (edited) OK maybe me being thick to be clear the membrane is fixed directly to the wall all other studs etc which support the OSb wall are on the dry side of the membrane maybe the picture but is there a gap between the studs and membrane or not could touching the steel studs cause condensation to form ? every time i,ve seen these sort of barriers they do not touch anything but have an air gap on the dry side of them,then the stud wall . please correct me if i,m wrong Edited May 8, 2019 by scottishjohn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted May 8, 2019 Author Share Posted May 8, 2019 15 minutes ago, Big Neil said: Why aren't studs just box sections. Would they not be slightly stronger that way.. Yep a that would be great wouldn’t it . You could leave with just a top and bottom track or fix with glypliner brackets aswell ! Yeah ! Why aren’t they boxed ? Cost I guess . Could screw 2 together ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted May 8, 2019 Author Share Posted May 8, 2019 15 minutes ago, scottishjohn said: OK maybe me being thick to be clear the membrane is fixed directly to the wall all other studs etc which support the OSb wall are on the dry side of the membrane maybe the picture but is there a gap between the studs and membrane or not could touching the steel studs cause condensation to form ? every time i,ve seen these sort of barriers they do not touch anything but have an air gap on the dry side of them,then the stud wall . please correct me if i,m wrong Yes there’s a gap . The membrane isn’t perfectly flat to the wall so you probably can’t see the gap . gaps about 1.5 -> 2cm Theoretically all moisture should be only behind the dimpled membrane- that’s its purpose . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted May 8, 2019 Author Share Posted May 8, 2019 Here From this angle you can see the gap Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted May 8, 2019 Author Share Posted May 8, 2019 Just now, pocster said: Here From this angle you can see the gap I guess you could argue that condensation could occur with the horizontal ceiling track against the concrete ! . There will be a suspended ceiling as well . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted May 8, 2019 Author Share Posted May 8, 2019 I’m waiting for @nod to wet himself ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottishjohn Posted May 8, 2019 Share Posted May 8, 2019 If the damp outside of wall is colder than inside and something is touching, like metal I think it could cause condensation on the metal ,like on inside of a single glazed window, that why you need a gap roomside of the barrier ,so any condensation on the barrier will hopefully be on the outside(damp ) where the drain channel is? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nod Posted May 8, 2019 Share Posted May 8, 2019 Hi There would be no problem with condensation using Gypliner Its worth worth sealing the holes drilled and fixing with gypsum knockins They come in a orange nylon sleeve and will stop any moisture tracking through Normally when covering tanking we would use a foam backed board 25 mil when space is tight Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottishjohn Posted May 8, 2019 Share Posted May 8, 2019 2 hours ago, nod said: Hi There would be no problem with condensation using Gypliner Its worth worth sealing the holes drilled and fixing with gypsum knockins They come in a orange nylon sleeve and will stop any moisture tracking through Normally when covering tanking we would use a foam backed board 25 mil when space is tight certainly foam backed drywall will stop heat /cold from transferring through as easily Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted May 8, 2019 Author Share Posted May 8, 2019 (edited) 11 minutes ago, scottishjohn said: certainly foam backed drywall will stop heat /cold from transferring through as easily I’m confused here because apparently I could just put plasterboard up . Only adding the osb for a more solid structure. Also if I used a different type of membrane you can apparently just render ontop of that !! https://www.permagard.co.uk/newton-503-lath-clear-with-mesh-20m Edited May 8, 2019 by pocster Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottishjohn Posted May 8, 2019 Share Posted May 8, 2019 Just now, pocster said: I’m confused here because apparently I could just put plasterboard up . Only adding the osb for a more solid structure. foam backed plasterboard is pretty rigid ,think you worrying too much about the flimsy studding --it gets stiff once you clad it -try a section and see, 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted May 8, 2019 Author Share Posted May 8, 2019 2 minutes ago, scottishjohn said: foam backed plasterboard is pretty rigid ,think you worrying too much about the flimsy studding --it gets stiff once you clad it -try a section and see, So is osb ok with foam backed plasterboard ontop ok ? Just want to get it right ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottishjohn Posted May 8, 2019 Share Posted May 8, 2019 1 minute ago, pocster said: So is osb ok with foam backed plasterboard ontop ok ? Just want to get it right ? I think @nod will think thats OTT but if you do stager joints just to be sure 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted May 8, 2019 Author Share Posted May 8, 2019 3 minutes ago, scottishjohn said: I think @nod will think thats OTT but if you do stager joints just to be sure Ok . So I could just do osb with standard plasterboard on top ? . But then you’ve made me concerned about the lack of foam backing .... ?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simplysimon Posted May 8, 2019 Share Posted May 8, 2019 they are fexible until pb screwd to them and everything stiffens up. no-one is using it as everyone is still in the 50's and this is 'new' . guys up here rattle it up, don't bother with centres, approx 4/600 hit that with a few screws, place the edge stud, fix to pb and next sheet goes on. btw they're on about 2k a week for a semi skilled job. boring as hell but good money. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nod Posted May 8, 2019 Share Posted May 8, 2019 You can set your struts at 400 and the wall will be very rigid As John has pointed out if you choose to use a insulation board you will have a very solid wall Another option is a Sound moisture board Both options will be rock solid We normally site the brackets at 800 apart Closing this off to 600 again will make things more solid With this system you don’t have to use track On refurbs it’s not always possible to get a good fixing Quivk tip for fixing the brackets is to use point tip pan heads not self drillers as they work loose Most vids show the clips being bent back then fixed Ans easier way is set your laser and trim the brackets with your snid where the laser strikes That way when you are fixing you simply clamp to the edge of the strut 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nod Posted May 9, 2019 Share Posted May 9, 2019 12 hours ago, nod said: You can set your struts at 400 and the wall will be very rigid As John has pointed out if you choose to use a insulation board you will have a very solid wall Another option is a Sound moisture board Both options will be rock solid We normally site the brackets at 800 apart Closing this off to 600 again will make things more solid With this system you don’t have to use track On refurbs it’s not always possible to get a good fixing Quivk tip for fixing the brackets is to use point tip pan heads not self drillers as they work loose Most vids show the clips being bent back then fixed Ans easier way is set your laser and trim the brackets with your snid where the laser strikes That way when you are fixing you simply clamp to the edge of the strut These are what I’ve been doing this morning A real simple system when space is tight 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted May 9, 2019 Author Share Posted May 9, 2019 So i’ve Improvised a horizontal bit at the bottom just for peace of mind . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted May 9, 2019 Author Share Posted May 9, 2019 4 minutes ago, nod said: These are what I’ve been doing this morning A real simple system when space is tight Real neat ! i think you’ve done this before a few times ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted May 9, 2019 Share Posted May 9, 2019 21 minutes ago, pocster said: So i’ve Improvised a horizontal bit at the bottom just for peace of mind . You might get on better using a proper make blue drill instead of a yellow one... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nod Posted May 9, 2019 Share Posted May 9, 2019 Thanks This site has been stood foe 10 years All the pb and wiring has been rip out to reveal no fire protectection Poor airtightness So we are having to seal everything 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted May 9, 2019 Author Share Posted May 9, 2019 (edited) Doing better today as I get used to it . When screed is done and I have top and bottom track with no fixings to the wall - I can see it’ll be a breeze ! Edited May 9, 2019 by pocster Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted May 9, 2019 Author Share Posted May 9, 2019 Doing the returns Track now around the correct way . Improvised again for fixings ! Bit like mechano this stuff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted May 9, 2019 Share Posted May 9, 2019 10 minutes ago, pocster said: Doing the returns Track now around the correct way . Improvised again for fixings ! Bit like mechano this stuff As a DIYer would you go for this again in preference to timber studs? Might be an option for me when I do the lounge / diner knock through. Was going to go timber but seeing this makes me think otherwise. What's the cost like vs timber? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Neil Posted May 9, 2019 Share Posted May 9, 2019 is it all interchangeable, in much the same way as 2X4 is 2X4. Is all steel studwork the same mr @nod. Where is the best place to get it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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