Onoff Posted August 27, 2016 Share Posted August 27, 2016 (edited) Is a double socket rest bend an absolute must at the bottom of a soil stack? In the picture below the red lines crossing at A is where the soil from the bathroom refurb will come out. The horrible brown/black fittings going into a bit of temporary lead will go and the stack come straight down on the "A" vertical line. The new assembly balanced precariously on the left is what I want at the base of the new stack on the A line. This in turn needs to connect to the clay pipe that's roughly on line B. Height wise it's looking a tad tight to get everything in. I can gain maybe 1/2" at B. Won't know for sure until I chip away at whatever is covering the clay pipe and see what height it's at.If I was to use an ordinary 87.5o bend at C I'd gain more height. But is it frowned upon? Cheers Edited August 27, 2016 by Onoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crofter Posted August 27, 2016 Share Posted August 27, 2016 You really need it to be a rest bend as the entire weight of the SVP is sitting on it- an ordinary bend has no 'foot' to take the load. Also, the wider sweep of the rest bend makes rodding possible. If you need to steal some height somewhere, investigate different manufacturers and perhaps solvent weld rather than push-fit fitting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted August 27, 2016 Author Share Posted August 27, 2016 8 minutes ago, Crofter said: You really need it to be a rest bend as the entire weight of the SVP is sitting on it- an ordinary bend has no 'foot' to take the load. Also, the wider sweep of the rest bend makes rodding possible. If you need to steal some height somewhere, investigate different manufacturers and perhaps solvent weld rather than push-fit fitting. Cheers. More £££! Likely I'll end up cracking the clay anyway and having to redo the LOT. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProDave Posted August 27, 2016 Share Posted August 27, 2016 Well in this house, the builders put the drain runs through the solum and they just used standard bends, not rest bends. So in terms of the accuteness of the bend, a normal bend seems to have worked without issue. So it just comes down to supportng the stack, so how about a normal bend and set the base of it in a bit of concrete? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted August 27, 2016 Author Share Posted August 27, 2016 22 minutes ago, ProDave said: Well in this house, the builders put the drain runs through the solum and they just used standard bends, not rest bends. So in terms of the accuteness of the bend, a normal bend seems to have worked without issue. So it just comes down to supportng the stack, so how about a normal bend and set the base of it in a bit of concrete? Good to know it is done and "works". If necessary I can chem fix some studs into the base of the walls / footings to help support any concrete block. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crofter Posted August 27, 2016 Share Posted August 27, 2016 You can get away with all sorts with some luck- doesn't make it a good idea! Our house has, for the past 40 years, been getting on just fine with a drain run that has multiple bends with absolutely no access for rodding. But one day it will get blocked and we will be breaking the drains open. Maybe a 'good enough' solution would be to use a tighter bend at the base of the stack, and install a rodding eye in the horizontal run Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted August 27, 2016 Share Posted August 27, 2016 Why the Y branch below the other branch..?? What else has to go into the drain run ..?? If you are breaking into the clay you are better off coming a fair way back, cutting it carefully with a thin abrasive hacksaw blade and making the rest up in uPVC with a decent coupling onto the clay and a slip coupling on the uPVC Other option is to leave the stack clean and then just tee in the other waste below ground - easier and simpler tbh Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted August 27, 2016 Author Share Posted August 27, 2016 The Y branch will take the soil from the grey elbow on the right. At the mo that pipe the tools are leaning against is so high level wise in comparison to the other, horizontal clay pipes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted August 27, 2016 Share Posted August 27, 2016 So I wouldn't bother then ..! Tee with a cap on where the grey is, bring it down to the right level for the main drain and run it in to a Y in the main clay branch - that will also sort your downpipe problem too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted August 27, 2016 Author Share Posted August 27, 2016 I like/prefer the idea of one 4" pipe into the ground. I'll see what's what when I expose the clay. That black downpipe off the gutter is a mystery as in where it runs to..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted August 27, 2016 Share Posted August 27, 2016 My guess is a soil pipe running parallel to the wall with a tee as it hits the soil leaving the house .... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted August 27, 2016 Author Share Posted August 27, 2016 Bit of an overview: Main, straight run down to the cesspool on the right. Then 3 runs into the manhole: First clay pipe from bottom left takes shower/sink from upstairs. Used to take sink/bath downstairs. Second pipe up takes upstairs wc and will take new downstairs wc. Grey is from small downstairs wc. Also to come up in this area are old, 3 sided footings (depth unknown) where it appears a room/outhouse used to be attached. It makes the area very wet as although on a slope it retains water. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted August 28, 2016 Author Share Posted August 28, 2016 Half wondering, with hindsight whether I should have brought the new waste out vertical thru the floor of the new bathroom and under the footings, hiding the stack in the internal stud. Rodding might have been an issue though: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stones Posted August 28, 2016 Share Posted August 28, 2016 Ah, hindsight. Easy to torture yourself over whether you have made the right decision, and can actually be quite destructive in that it distracts you from other decisions / choices yet to be made. You've done the best you can in the given circumstances. Time for the next challenge? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted August 28, 2016 Author Share Posted August 28, 2016 1 hour ago, Stones said: Ah, hindsight. Easy to torture yourself over whether you have made the right decision, and can actually be quite destructive in that it distracts you from other decisions / choices yet to be made. You've done the best you can in the given circumstances. Time for the next challenge? My mind's on the next project before the last one's finished (or is that started?) Just wondering what happens to 4" soil stacks if you fit EWI? Is the insulation just thinner at that point? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted August 28, 2016 Author Share Posted August 28, 2016 It's like one of those kid's kits where you have to chip away at the block to find the dinosaur: At least the clay pipe is heading lower which is good though it's holed and I'm pretty sure cracked: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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