Onoff Posted April 25, 2019 Author Share Posted April 25, 2019 He's set on going for 10mm tile backer boards, specifically these: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tile-Backer-Board-6mm-10mm-Insulation-Boards-100wsh/371609458052?hash=item5685a65584:m:moAK8YbYeDtX2FmblbtDoYw&frcectupt=true Is there a guide for putting these up anyone knows of as in type of fixings (the boards come with "washers"), number & spacing of fixings per board, what to do where the boards abut one another as in leave a gap or use some sort of adhesive? He's on about using plugs and screws but I can't help thinking a hammer in type fixing would be better to save positioning the boards and drilling, then removing the board to fit the plugs. Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Punter Posted April 25, 2019 Share Posted April 25, 2019 With those washers I would just drill a 6mm hole through the board for red plugs and 50mm x 4mm stainless screw and plug through the board. They give you 100 washers, so 10 per board. 1 in each corner and the other 6 spaced around the edges. You could squirt a bit of ct1 in the holes if you want. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted April 25, 2019 Author Share Posted April 25, 2019 18 minutes ago, Mr Punter said: With those washers I would just drill a 6mm hole through the board for red plugs and 50mm x 4mm stainless screw and plug through the board. They give you 100 washers, so 10 per board. 1 in each corner and the other 6 spaced around the edges. You could squirt a bit of ct1 in the holes if you want. Ta. Was thinking to tank the whole lot with Aqua Seal menbrane when done. Doesn't seem quite right having no screws in the middle of the board... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Punter Posted April 25, 2019 Share Posted April 25, 2019 Maybe you could just have 8 around the edge and 2 in the middle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted April 25, 2019 Author Share Posted April 25, 2019 2 hours ago, Mr Punter said: Maybe you could just have 8 around the edge and 2 in the middle. In the Q&As for these similar boards they're suggesting screws at 150mm centres: https://www.amazon.co.uk/ProWarm-10mm-Backer-Board-1200x600mm/dp/B009A80R4M Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Punter Posted April 25, 2019 Share Posted April 25, 2019 Sounds like overkill. I have only used these on the floor and we laid them in tile adhesive. Adhesive plus screws may be best, but 150 centres is intense. Not so bad if you are fixing down onto a timber sub floor but too much for a wall. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted May 2, 2019 Author Share Posted May 2, 2019 Just found out it was him who did the tiling that failed in the opening post pics! He never mentioned that to start with! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted May 30, 2019 Author Share Posted May 30, 2019 Well he's had a go. All apparently tanked behind with Aqua Seal I'd have to re gloss this rad and the cupboard door above: Messy git, not protecting the new bath and taps. I think he used my Fugi tool for the silicone... WC wall next as per my other thread. I fear much input from me will be needed. Still, I'm only standing on the shoulders of the giants here! That window would drive me nuts: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted May 30, 2019 Share Posted May 30, 2019 Sorry is this the rental that you were asking about a geberit offset fitting for..?? I would not be fitting one of those in there - why spend £4-500 on a bog in a house you don’t own .??!! £65 For a WC set and be done with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted May 30, 2019 Author Share Posted May 30, 2019 27 minutes ago, PeterW said: Sorry is this the rental that you were asking about a geberit offset fitting for..?? I would not be fitting one of those in there - why spend £4-500 on a bog in a house you don’t own .??!! £65 For a WC set and be done with it. Yep. Rental. Agreed but not my place/money. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted June 4, 2019 Author Share Posted June 4, 2019 (edited) Right, mate's made a faux pas. (Yes, my mate, not me! ) When he's come to fit his shower screen he's tiled the wall and it bows inward roughly like the sketch below. He reckons it touches at the top and bottom but there's "a gap he can put his finger in" so guess about 1/2". Searched solutions suggest ripping tiles off and starting again or cutting a groove in the tiles for the shower screen channel to sit in neither of which he fancies doing. The frame I think allows for the wall to be 6mm out...he's way off! Any other suggestions? @Nickfromwales? Cheers Edited June 4, 2019 by Onoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProDave Posted June 4, 2019 Share Posted June 4, 2019 Usually there is a channel that screws to the wall into which the screen then fits. Can he not bend that channel to match the wall, or at least get close before the screen goes into the channel? I wonder if he just unscrewed the screen + channel complete and previously it bowed the other way? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted June 4, 2019 Author Share Posted June 4, 2019 19 minutes ago, ProDave said: Usually there is a channel that screws to the wall into which the screen then fits. Can he not bend that channel to match the wall, or at least get close before the screen goes into the channel? I wonder if he just unscrewed the screen + channel complete and previously it bowed the other way? What he's saying is putting channel against the wall and it's 1/2" out in the centre. Almost needs a bow shaped, v.long packer. I'm thinking on the lines of screw the channel to the wall with the gap, packed out at the fixing points with st/st penny washers. Then affix some white pvc anlge either side stuck on with CT1. Trim the angle plumb to the channel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProDave Posted June 4, 2019 Share Posted June 4, 2019 The channel is there to allow for non plumb walls etc. There is usually a lot of tolerance in fitting the screen into the channel so then get the screen plumb, even if the channel is not. Are you saying the amnount of bend exceeds the depth of the channel so that won't work? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted June 4, 2019 Author Share Posted June 4, 2019 15 minutes ago, ProDave said: Are you saying the amnount of bend exceeds the depth of the channel so that won't work? Yes exactly that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProDave Posted June 4, 2019 Share Posted June 4, 2019 Since he is obviously happy with bodged, rubbish work, put some spacers under the screws in the middle and empty a tube of silocone sealant in the gap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted June 4, 2019 Share Posted June 4, 2019 4 hours ago, ProDave said: Since he is obviously happy with bodged, rubbish work, put some spacers under the screws in the middle and empty a tube of silocone sealant in the gap. A bit harsh ? 15 hours ago, Onoff said: Any other suggestions? @Nickfromwales As you said a bit further on, just pack the middle with something non-ferrous ( steel washers vs alu might have an electrolytic action? ), mask the wall and the channels, pump the void full of clear CT1, square off with a plastic scraper, de-mask and then pvc D-section both sides to suit. Not pretty, but 800 times better than whothefeckever suggested cutting a slot into the tiles ?????? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted June 4, 2019 Author Share Posted June 4, 2019 (edited) I wish he'd given me a dimensioned drawing instead of these 4 video clips, can't really gauge the gap on my phone: Edited June 4, 2019 by Onoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted June 4, 2019 Author Share Posted June 4, 2019 15 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said: steel washers vs alu might have an electrolytic action? St/st washers would be alright. Just duct tape between the last washer and the ali. 15 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said: pvc D-section both sides to suit. Do you mean quadrant? Where do you get it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted June 4, 2019 Share Posted June 4, 2019 D section. Smaller size if poss but ripped down to make long bow shaped infills. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted June 5, 2019 Author Share Posted June 5, 2019 5 hours ago, Nickfromwales said: D section. Smaller size if poss but ripped down to make long bow shaped infills. Cheers. And that'll bend the "wrong" way? With a couple of small clamps whilst it sets I suppose! I was thinking this: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProDave Posted June 5, 2019 Share Posted June 5, 2019 That gap looks a small fraction of the channel thickness. Are you SURE the channel won't just pull in and flex enough to fill that gap? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted June 5, 2019 Author Share Posted June 5, 2019 39 minutes ago, ProDave said: That gap looks a small fraction of the channel thickness. Are you SURE the channel won't just pull in and flex enough to fill that gap? He's going to re-look at it. Seems there was anyway a bit missing from the fixed screen kit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted June 6, 2019 Share Posted June 6, 2019 I think I agree with @ProDave, in that it should just pull back. Even though it will distort slightly, you can simply feed the screen in at the top where it isn't distorted, and then push it in as you work downwards to get the whole screen into the profile. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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