IanR Posted August 25, 2016 Share Posted August 25, 2016 There's been a little careless work around one of my thresholds and I've ended up with the EPS upstand getting chewed up where I need to fit a GRP capping piece. To get the top of the EPS back to flat and smooth I need a Filler product of some sort that will fill up to 10mm - 15mm thick and obviously not react with the EPS. Any thoughts on what I could use? I'm assuming solvent based products risk melting the EPS, but am I being over-cautious? I'll obviously trial on an off-cut before putting anything onto my upstand, but was hoping to narrow the options a little. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stones Posted August 25, 2016 Share Posted August 25, 2016 (edited) Some expanding foam squirted on immediately before fitting the GRP capping piece? We are building with ICF, and expanding foam is almost a stock solution for gap filling and applications like you describe. Edited August 25, 2016 by Stones Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanR Posted August 25, 2016 Author Share Posted August 25, 2016 Thanks, what brand and product are you using? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stones Posted August 25, 2016 Share Posted August 25, 2016 Our builder uses Everbuild stuff (primarily I think because he uses so much of the stuff). I'll double check the actual product tomorrow when I'm back on site. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted August 25, 2016 Share Posted August 25, 2016 You may benefit from using a low expansion ( LE ) foam. Don't forget to have some solvent gun cleaner to hand to clean any wet foam / overspill off. Do that immediately if required. Mask sensitive areas as the foam can expand and adhere to adjacent surfaces. Very hard to impossible to clean off certain things . 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted August 25, 2016 Share Posted August 25, 2016 Soudal Low Expansion Soudafoam, this one: http://www.screwfix.com/p/soudal-soudafoam-expanding-foam-gun-grade-750ml/5026d?_requestid=448445 Make sure you get the Low Expansion one as they do a couple very similar looking. I used it to fill gaps behind my EPS upstand where the wall tapered. Also used to fill in missing chunks of render, see by the old doorway on the left and across the back wall where the soil pipe was. I hoovered the area, sprayed it with water then foamed it. Once dry, sawed it level: It was JH put me onto Soudal products I think. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanR Posted August 25, 2016 Author Share Posted August 25, 2016 Thanks all, great feedback! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted August 25, 2016 Share Posted August 25, 2016 A lot of my EPS upstands were held off the uneven walls against a long board in turn held in place by bricks/blocks. The low expansion foam was sprayed in to fill the (wetted) gap. It's not strong enough to push the board out of place like the regular stuff does. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gravelld Posted August 26, 2016 Share Posted August 26, 2016 I find the best products are the ones that allow compression once cured, e.g. Soudal Flexifoam or Everbuild Thermofoam. Both more expensive than others though. Has to be low expansion, and has to be applied with a gun. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stones Posted August 26, 2016 Share Posted August 26, 2016 My builder is currently using Everbuild Pinkgrip, but the main application it is being used for is part fixing EWI to the outer face of ICF blocks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vijay Posted August 26, 2016 Share Posted August 26, 2016 6 hours ago, Stones said: My builder is currently using Everbuild Pinkgrip, but the main application it is being used for is part fixing EWI to the outer face of ICF blocks. Are you using a mechanical fix too? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted August 28, 2016 Share Posted August 28, 2016 On 26 August 2016 at 19:04, Vijay said: Are you using a mechanical fix too? On 26 August 2016 at 12:14, Stones said: My builder is currently using Everbuild Pinkgrip, but the main application it is being used for is part fixing EWI to the outer face of ICF blocks. "Part fixing" EWI gets 'first' fixed with foam to deal with the undulations and provide a temporary bond. Non-metal fixings are then typically used to provide a secondary mechanical fix. Something I'm looking to do to the rear two walls of my ground floor bathroom ( block on flat ) before the winter kicks in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted August 29, 2016 Share Posted August 29, 2016 7 hours ago, Nickfromwales said: "Part fixing" EWI gets 'first' fixed with foam to deal with the undulations and provide a temporary bond. Non-metal fixings are then typically used to provide a secondary mechanical fix. Something I'm looking to do to the rear two walls of my ground floor bathroom ( block on flat ) before the winter kicks in. Would you do this yourself? What thickness etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted August 29, 2016 Share Posted August 29, 2016 Fit the EWI? Yes I'm looking to do it myself, as I don't like some of the jobs I've seen tbh. Poor detailing at the top and exposed sides so rain must be pouring through some of the worse ones. I put 30mm + 9.5 PB insulated boards on the inside face of the outside walls of the bathroom, and I'm considering a layer of 40 - 50mm EPS on the external wall to make up for the lack of cavity. I went block on flat as the original which I had to adhere to is 9" brick no cavity, and time was something I didn't have to look at other options so I just dug the raised ground level away from DPC level by a good 100+ mm and no issues so far other than a bit of cold bridging around the window which I think is because of the dry line adhesive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted August 29, 2016 Share Posted August 29, 2016 (edited) 2 hours ago, Nickfromwales said: Fit the EWI? Yes I'm looking to do it myself, as I don't like some of the jobs I've seen tbh. Poor detailing at the top and exposed sides so rain must be pouring through some of the worse ones. I put 30mm + 9.5 PB insulated boards on the inside face of the outside walls of the bathroom, and I'm considering a layer of 40 - 50mm EPS on the external wall to make up for the lack of cavity. I went block on flat as the original which I had to adhere to is 9" brick no cavity, and time was something I didn't have to look at other options so I just dug the raised ground level away from DPC level by a good 100+ mm and no issues so far other than a bit of cold bridging around the window which I think is because of the dry line adhesive. Sounds like a parallel universe! The NE facing wall where I'm messing around with the drains is of mixed construction with a common, rendered face - Front bedroom solid brick - Bathroom breeze cavity Even the render isn't uniform - one bits smooth the other looks like it's been stippled with the basket from a deep fat fryer! The bedroom has no wall insulation. The bathroom, the subject of the long running saga, is battened out with 2x2 and insulated between with a minimum of 50mm PIR. Each batten sits off the wall by 5mm minimum and is foamed behind the batten. The battening was mainly done to hide services and square the room up. Hotch potch is the word! EWI across that back face seemed like a good idea. EDIT: Have you DIY EWI supplier in mind? Edited August 29, 2016 by Onoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted August 29, 2016 Share Posted August 29, 2016 Just going to buy the eps from merchants and fixings off the bay. What else do you need beyond that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted August 29, 2016 Share Posted August 29, 2016 57 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said: Just going to buy the eps from merchants and fixings off the bay. What else do you need beyond that? Don't you need top and bottom (metal?) trims etc? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted August 29, 2016 Share Posted August 29, 2016 I doubt any of it is metal? Unless it's stainless. Everything I've seen so far is plastic or Upvc. I'm asking btw, as I've not looked at this at all yet. . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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