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110mm or 125mm Drill For Soil Pipe?


Onoff

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53 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said:

Dense wool would be better but you prob don't want wool against the barrier. 

You mean like Rockwool batts? 

 

Not against the barrier?

 

There's blue DPM metre up the wall behind the studs. There'll be a thinner VCL goes over the face of the studs before the Aquapanel / PB goes on. What's the worry with Rockwool then?

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If your not sealed from outside just wondered if it may sweat. 

Overthinking as usual, wonder where I get that from. O.o

I foamed a soil pipe that came down in a hotel foyer. I put around 2" of foam all around it, PVA'd it, scrim taped it and Artexed it to look like a roman pillar. Shaved the foam accordingly assuming it would quiet the 'noise' but no such luck. If say about 1% quieter if that. 

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  • 2 months later...

Trying to grow a pair this morning and tackle this:

 

20161105_101235

 

It all needs to go whilst working round living in the place! Plan is to cut the clay soil on the right at the "+" mark, past the crack and the hole in it, leaving a stub say 2" to connect a rubber collar to. This I'll do after several bleach laden flushings of the upstairs wc!

 

20161105_101249

 

As soon as I do this we're down to just one wc in the house, the one coming from the small cloak and exiting through the brown soil in the pictures above.

 

So after I cut the clay I'll have to go he'll for leather to remove that big lump encasing the bit of clay that's being got rid of. Then a new soil drop will go in with a tee into the wall for the new bathroom. Once I sort that 3" drain pipe in the pic I can get rid of the 110mm plastic soil coming off the grey bend! 

 

If the clay stub I leave breaks or is no good I'll have to go all the way to the manhole!

 

20161105_101307

 

WAS just waiting on a jumbo bag of sharp sand, 10mm shingle and one of ballast to turn up for covering / reinstating things. Lorry turned up and they'd sent the big one! This despite me telling them access was tight and to send the small Hiab! Had to send him away. Apparently the small lorry is in for MOT (they must have known this when I ordered it). Delivery now Weds pm. :(

 

 

Edited by Onoff
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On 24/08/2016 at 00:10, Nickfromwales said:

Sds drills aren't supposed to be used for core drilling ;)  That's a recipe for a dead drill. Ask me how many I've done in because I was too lazy to set up my diamond drill. ¬¬. Better still......don't. 

Why are you using a TCT core drill bit instead of diamond? And @PeterW, that TCT drill 100% requires hammer action, that's how it works. The drill for coring out with a TCT bit needs to be a slow turning low geared drill with a heavy hammer action. A standard sds drill will be too fast and not hard enough on the hammer. Ask your hire centre and they'll recommend a drill to suit. 

Get extension bars and drill from one side only. If you try and join up from inside out, even with a pilot, you'll be surprised at how far out it'll be. Trying to re-align / ream that right is pure punishment and a royal pita, again, ask me how I know. 

Fwiw I'd just hire a good diamond ( not TCT core ) bit and accompanying diamond drill set and it'll fly through in one clean operation. If your sds is slipping now, it'll be in the bin at the end of this job. 

 

@Onoff as we've been discussing attempting to decapitate ourselves on another thread just a cautionary note about using SDS to drill cores rather than a proper core drill. You stand the real risk of the TCT catching and spinning the drill round, the diamond drills have a slower speed and different clutch to prevent that. Don't underestimate the force in which that drill will spin in your hands, more than enough to dislocate your shoulder, sprain your wrist or throw you into a heap if you let go. Ask me how I know :o. If you are going to use the sds then SLOW and STEADY :) but honestly do what @Nickfromwales said and pop down the hire shop !

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28 minutes ago, Barney12 said:

 

@Onoff as we've been discussing attempting to decapitate ourselves on another thread just a cautionary note about using SDS to drill cores rather than a proper core drill. You stand the real risk of the TCT catching and spinning the drill round, the diamond drills have a slower speed and different clutch to prevent that. Don't underestimate the force in which that drill will spin in your hands, more than enough to dislocate your shoulder, sprain your wrist or throw you into a heap if you let go. Ask me how I know :o. If you are going to use the sds then SLOW and STEADY :) but honestly do what @Nickfromwales said and pop down the hire shop !

 

Too late.....all done mate! Tbh the torque limiter on my Makita SDS is so sensitive the chances of it catching and doing me that sort of damage are virtually zero. It took quite a while to do the hole through a cavity wall at 125mm and the 50mm waste through the same wall with a 65mm cutter. When it catches the torque limiter just kicks in and clatters. I suppose it makes it "safe!

Edited by Onoff
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13 minutes ago, Onoff said:

 

Too late.....all done mate! Tbh the torque limiter on my Makita SDS is so sensitive the chances of it catching and doing me that sort of damage are virtually zero. It took quite a while to do the hole through a cavity wall at 125mm and the 50mm waste through the same wall with a 65mm cutter. When it catches the torque limiter just kicks in and clatters. I suppose it makes it "safe!

 

Good news! 

Edit: well for you anyway, not so much your Makita clutch. But you can replace those easier and cheaper than limbs :) 

Edited by Barney12
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