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How do I make it less cold


oldkettle

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I have a day off work and finally found time to take pictures of this nightmare. Our kitchen window is not installed well at all and standing inside next to the floor kitchen unit I can feel the draught from it, especially as it is so cold outside. 

I wonder whether I should just go buy a can of a foam and seal the whole thing from the outside - over this breaking concrete? It is supposed to be a temporary fix as the whole thing will hopefully go when we get our planning one way or the other, but if it is an easy improvement then why not. 

 

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I am guessing you have white trim pieces up the sides and across the top where the frame meets the wall. Will probably have been stuck on with mitre bond. These will have had a silicone bead run up them after fitting. Unfortunately the fitters have likely just whacked the windows in with frame fixings and packs and not bothered to use low expansion foam or Compriband around the frame. Most of my 2G windows are the same. I'm addressing as I go along. In your case it looks like like there was a cock up with the height so they've chucked a bit of 4"x2" in and rendered over it. At the very least they should have stapled some expanding metal on it.

 

I'd take the rest of that render off. Use a plant sprayer over all the gaps to wet them then get a low expansion foam in there. To make pretty ideally screw some st/st expanded metal to the timber and render over. Won't help with any cold bridging but should stop draughts. Alternatively screw a strip of upvc over it and silicone round the edges.

 

In my bathroom there was a 1" gap between top of new window and lintel all covered over by trim!

 

You'll still have I bet huge gaps up the sides. You could take the trim off and repeat the exercise then fit new trim.

Edited by Onoff
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When you see the speed at which window fitters put them in...

 

Combine that with the fact the DG company "surveyors" no doubt allow for massive clearances.

 

One of mine:

 

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I'd hazard a guess most original timber windows are better sealed around the frame as they get mortared in as the walls go up.

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Thank you, @Onoff

 

This one is certainly quite old, it is much worse than most other windows in the house. I'd guess they replaced an old window which was probably a different size and might have decided to change the height. 

 

The draught is mostly felt when I lower my head to the work surface level, I do hope this is due to these gaps below the window. With my limited skills and time wouldn't want to destroy anything around.

It is also clear the seals withing the unit have failed and I certainly need to apply a layer of (silicone? foam first?) on the inside at the bottom.

 

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Edited by oldkettle
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Probably didn't allow for the cill when measuring.

 

Cavity wall? The wind will be howling in there and escaping through every gap.

 

Foam that lower gap inside (dampen first), cut flush then silicone over. You can work silicone grease into perished rubbers that might help too.

 

You're on a loser taso some extent as the window is set so far out beyond the cavity.

 

Been there / done that / living it:

 

 

 

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It pays to pay attention. 

 

Why didn't I look at this gap on a hinge side before? Not sure it is clear from the picture but there is at least 3mm there! I did adjust the handle side recently but completely ignored the other one. It seems new hinges will be required... 

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17 minutes ago, Onoff said:

Someone on here had a good link to a place that does older DG components.

 

???

 

Never seen it. Will try to find it. The adjustment video link was here not a long time ago. In the mean time - pushing the corner of the window from the outside made a massive difference :-)

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Sounds like someone has tried to pull the window open from the outside - there may be anti-jemmy hooks fitted or a set of alignment or sash seal wedges. If not, easy to do and cheap. 

 

Check the hinge side for these sort of things 

 

Anti - Jemmy hooks

 

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Alignment or sash seal wedge

 

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The bottom ones are designed to force the seals tight and stop the window from doing what you are experiencing. 

 

You can buy them cheap enough here 

 

 

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Thank you, @PeterW, I did think it was used "for access" at some point!

 

I can't see either hooks or wedges - will attach the pics shortly

 

Do you reckon there is no need to replace the hinges - just install one of these?

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Edited by oldkettle
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7 minutes ago, Onoff said:

 

Lots of cracked sealant around  the inside too I note. Worth renewing. Again on the inside if you remove the old silicone then foam any gaps.

 

(Low expansion Soudal from S'fix in a proper gun).

 

ah, exactly what I wanted to look for - a proper gun. I remember there was a discussion here sometime last year, will find it. Thank you!

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Something I wrote in another thread. 

 

"Once the low expansion foam can is on the gun you leave it on until it is empty. You do not take the foam can off to clean in between uses unless you need to change foam types. You use the gun cleaner with the red nozzle on to clean excess, WET foam from around the nozzle (and anything you might get it on accidentally).

 

You undo the knob screw at the back of the gun to adjust the foam flow rate and squeeze the trigger. When finished for the day you turn the knob to close the valve and clean the end. Put it aside and pick up the next day or next week, month etc.

 

When the can is empty: Have an open plastic bag/bin liner ready. Have the gun cleaner at the ready with the red nozzle on. Unscrew the empty can quickly and put straight in the bin bag. Pick up the gun cleaner and use like an aerosol to spray up inside where the can screws on as some foam will be coming out there. Then screw the gun cleaner into the gun and give a blast thru pointing the nozzle into the bin liner. Remove the gun cleaner and screw on your new can of foam.

 

After you have used the gun then yes you can leave it upright with the foam can still screwed on, with the base of the can on the floor for however long you want within reason. 

 

Cleaning these guns doesn't mean a quick squirt through. Pretty sure the instructions say to put the gun cleaner on and leave for X minutes before blasting through finally. This is more for if you want to thoroughly clean the gun and store without a can on".

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12 minutes ago, oldkettle said:

Thanks, that's what I thought.

No Lidl anywhere close, really hope they follow Aldi and start delivering. Anyway, I do have a primitive old gun, it will have to do for now.

 

Just go to TS and get the Cox gun - better than the cheap crap that the supermarkets sell. 

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12 minutes ago, oldkettle said:

Thanks, that's what I thought.

No Lidl anywhere close, really hope they follow Aldi and start delivering. Anyway, I do have a primitive old gun, it will have to do for now.

 

Bugger! Just done my 18th with a lad from Woking and he could have dropped one off. Probably won't see him for another 10 years.

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