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Anyone used online 3D printing services


Gone West

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6 minutes ago, Jeremy Harris said:

 

 

May be, I've seen a few odd things happen, but nothing quite as clear cut as this.  Hopefully you can just file the corners off the pegs to get them to fit.

 

I'll have to check later...could be me (again) that I sent you an earlier, un radiused model...

 

:ph34r:

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Erm...my fault. I must have forgotten to save after I'd done the edges! Never mind, nothing paring with a blade and some sandpaper won't cure I'm sure!

 

whoops!.JPG.c40e0a6884773296c006a9f9a0b0640f.JPG

 

Imports lovely to FreeCAD as an stl, not that it's necessary now:

 

whoops!2.thumb.JPG.384667baf031d825ff58d4111400893d.JPG

Edited by Onoff
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  • 2 weeks later...
On 05/11/2019 at 18:46, Jeremy Harris said:

 

 

You can buy Anycubic printers direct from Anycubic - they usually ship quickly from their EU warehouse: https://www.anycubic.com/

 

The Chiron is currently $399, so a bit cheaper than Amazon.  I bought my Anycubic Photon directly from Anycubic, arrived within about 5 days, IIRC.

 

The site is in $, do I just order and pay via credit card / PayPal etc? Thanks 

 

https://www.anycubic.com/collections/3d-printers

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Failure! ?

 

20191122_222823

 

I found it like this. Presume somebody leant on placed something a bit heavy on the keyboard. 

 

Maybe I could have designed in radiused internal corners where the "stub axles" meet the main part. Similarly maybe the axles starting off as square section (my fault) then my paring / sanding them round didn't help.

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6 hours ago, Temp said:

Not familiar with that one but looks OK. I recommend finding a good user forum for it and asking for set up tips and tricks, plus any upgrades they recommend, that sort of thing.

 

As recommended by @PeterW, says his mate's company uses a couple of this model. The one I've ordered is the S model so has a few embellishments.  They do rapid prototyping. @Jeremy Harrisalso went with the same company albeit his is a resin printer. 

 

Fingers crossed this one turns up.

 

I can see a Baby Groot being on the cards to make (for his little sister) so I'll need to get some wood filament. Where's the best place you find to buy (filament)? It comes with 1kg of PLA.

 

 

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1 minute ago, Temp said:

Ive had several different makes via Amazon. Mainly because there are usually at least a few reviews. Will try and post a list of what I've used when I get home.

 

Thanks. Does the "program" estimate the length of filament required for the print?

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1 hour ago, Onoff said:

 

Thanks. Does the "program" estimate the length of filament required for the print?

Yes. The slicer (eg Cura) estimates length and weight. Not sure how accurate it is as I've never checked.

 

Think you will be surprised how much you can print with a 1kg reel of PLA. Note that filled filaments (steel powder etc) are denser so 1kg is shorter.

 

Exotic filaments can be hard to print with. You can get issues with warping, clogging, lumpy bits etc. I can't say I've been overly impressed with the few I've tried. Nothing like as good as suggested on youtube. Perhaps it's me. I would try to get samples before investing a lot of money on a full reel of something expensive.

 

PLA is the easiest to use. PEEK PETG is worth trying next if you need stronger prints without the agro of ABS.

 

Edit: Sorry I meant PETG not PEEK.

 

Edited by Temp
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Here are the filaments I've tried..

 

ZIRO Fluo orange PLA (nice bright orange) had two reels.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B075M47QR8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

SUNLU Black PLA+ (The "+" means its a modified PLA, not sure if there is any advantage though)

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B073PB9XWY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

AMZ3D White PETG

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B072JCPJRJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

Rigid Ink Black PETG

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0164CNSAQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

 

All of the above have worked ok for me. Not always first time. I've had to experiment with the setting many many times.  I keep a notebook and try to write down settings that work. 

 

I've also tried these filled filaments. The results were interesting but I cant say they were stunning. Perhaps more work needed on my part. Haven't purchased a full reel yet. 

 

Formfutura Bronze filled PLA (sample only)

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01IBMXNWU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

Proto-Pasta Magnetic Iron filled PLA (sample only)

https://shop.3dfilaprint.com/proto-pasta-magnetic-iron-175mm-samples-1495-p.asp?_=&variantid=1500

 

Have previously posted some photos of prints from the above.

 

It can be tricky getting some filaments to stick to the bed and not move about which wrecks the print. You can adjust the bed temperature, head gap, print speed, height at which fan turns on etc etc. I've tried various internet tricks and covering the glass bed with this blue tape seems to help.

 

https://www.screwfix.com/p/scotchblue-masking-tape-41m-x-50mm/8177x?ds_kid=39700029430360586&ds_rl=1249416&ds_rl=1241690&ds_rl=1245250&ds_kid=39700029430360586&ds_rl=1245250&ds_rl=1249475&gclid=Cj0KCQiA2vjuBRCqARIsAJL5a-JIJ9YCmdON9oqo72yvwGl6Ur3ghanoUmDMhNggR0QWQYN8UhxvbM8aAuINEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

I have also used the "Pritstick method". Also works but takes longer than tape.

 

 

 

 

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On 24/11/2019 at 11:24, Onoff said:

Failure! ?

 

20191122_222823

 

I found it like this. Presume somebody leant on placed something a bit heavy on the keyboard. 

 

Maybe I could have designed in radiused internal corners where the "stub axles" meet the main part. Similarly maybe the axles starting off as square section (my fault) then my paring / sanding them round didn't help.

i know nothing about 3 d printing --but that failure looks very simply that the material is not strong enough or too brittle  

Is it a case like nylon where you need to boil it  up in water to stop it  make it more flexible+ stop it becoming to brittle?

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There are many different types of 3D printer..

 

https://3dinsider.com/3d-printer-types/

 

I think that was from an SLA resin printer which might be more brittle but has other advantages such as faster printing. Some of the plastic filaments used in FDM printers is stronger. Occasionally with FDM you can get delamination between layers just as wood splits more easily along the grain but I've not had too many issues with that, especially not with PETG plastic.

 

 

 

 

Edited by Temp
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3 hours ago, Temp said:

There are many different types of 3D printer..

 

https://3dinsider.com/3d-printer-types/

 

I think that was from an SLA resin printer which might be more brittle but has other advantages such as faster printing. Some of the plastic filaments used in FDM printers is stronger. Occasionally with FDM you can get delamination between layers just as wood splits more easily along the grain but I've not had too many issues with that, especially not with PETG plastic.

 

 

 

 

 

Yes it was done on Jeremy's Anycubic Photon resin printer. Weird as it felt super strong and flexible. 

 

I don't think I have the option of PETG as a material to use with this printer, maybe you can with some hack?

 

20191129_031036.jpg.5e84bce05f90bcfe9671961c2ca443e0.jpg

 

What do you reckon as the best material then for that Makita/ Ferrex battery adapter you looked at for me? Could be his first job! ?

 

The one I've just bought is down $20 for Black Friday ?

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If it comes with a reel of PLA I would experiment with that first. If the battery adaptor gets hot then PLA might creep or even soften. I think it will be ok but if it is an issue try ABS or PETG.

 

The nozzle temperature needed for PETG (235-265C) is slightly higher than ABS (235C). Find out what the max nozzle temperature is for your printer. If not hot enough to print PETG it's possible you can upgrade the nozzle heater (aka hotend) cheaply. The heater is usually just a small aluminium block with a heater resistor and thermocouple in it. The Chinese churn these out by the bucket load. One for mine cost from £6 to about £30.

 

Some people say you need to put the printer in a heated cabinet to print ABS reliably and since a lot of my printer is actually made from PLA the whole printer could melt :-) 

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 28/11/2019 at 08:14, scottishjohn said:

i know nothing about 3 d printing --but that failure looks very simply that the material is not strong enough or too brittle  

Is it a case like nylon where you need to boil it  up in water to stop it  make it more flexible+ stop it becoming to brittle?

 

Jeremy has kindly printed me some more to try. This time I've added the radii on the stub axles that I forgot last time on the model I sent him.

 

I can't see that moisture conditioning like you suggest could hurt so may give that a go. This I thought a good read:

 

https://www.plasticstoday.com/materials/materials-analyst-part-85-fixing-brittle-nylon-product-water/141225133500

 

As a an aside I've also ordered a reel of ABS which might prove stronger? That and some wood PLA so my lad can print his sister a Baby Groot! 

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Just now, Onoff said:

 

Jeremy has kindly printed me some more to try. This time I've added the radii on the stub axles that I forgot last time on the model I sent him.

 

I can't see that moisture conditioning like you suggest could hurt so may give that a go. This I thought a good read:

 

https://www.plasticstoday.com/materials/materials-analyst-part-85-fixing-brittle-nylon-product-water/141225133500

 

As a an aside I've also ordered a reel of ABS which might prove stronger? That and some wood PLA so my lad can print his sister a Baby Groot! 

Ilearnt that long time ago when I Flew model aircraft --props need boiling up at least once year to make them less brittle and to survive less than perfect landings  especially in winter

I gave up model flying --I took up real flying -- it worked about about the same hourly rate    once you factored in the repair costs for the models and exclude training costs  to get PPL  and no crashes 

LOL

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The standard post-cure for resin printed parts is to heat them to ~80°C for about an hour, whilst exposing them to UV light.  Before doing this they tend to still remain a bit soft, as the post-cure process finishes off the cross-linking of the photo polymer that's started off during the printing process.

 

I have a bodged up post-cure oven with a UV floodlight set into it that I use.  Heating the parts up again won't do any harm, though.

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