Internal Door Linings

[scottishjohn]

the frame for the door doesn,t need to be same as wall-

unless you fitting a180mm thick door !!!!

put  normal size frame in the centre of the wall+plaster up to it both sides ?

or spend the money  on big section oak --wider it is the thicker it will need to be 

Edited December 24, 2018 by scottishjohn

[Jeremy Harris]

5 minutes ago, scottishjohn said:

the frame for the door doesn,t need to be same as wall-

unless you fitting a180mm thick door !!!!

 

 

The lining for an internal door does, though.  It'd look a bit odd with a narrow lining set into a wider internal wall, with no architrave, although it may suit a fairly modern design look, perhaps.  Personally I like a having simple architrave and the protection it gives to the corners of the door opening.

[ProDave]

20 minutes ago, JSHarris said:

 

 

Best bet will be to buy cheaper narrow boards and hide the joint under the stops, as narrow boards are generally cheaper than wide ones.  We bought all our oak from British Hardwoods, on the recommendation of Joiner (from Ebuild).  I have to say they were very good, and all the oak we received from them was near-perfect.  Their price was pretty good too, but I did buy a lot of oak from them, as all our skirtings, architraves, shelving as well as the doors and linings, are in a plain oiled oak finish.  I still have some 120 x 20 and 70 x 20 boards left over, and have been using it for odd jobs, like the CNC machined house name sign we put up earlier this year (I laminated up two 20mm thick boards to make that thick enough).

 

Biscuit jointing narrower oak boards should be easy enough, and the joints don't need to be tidy, as they will be hidden.  Also worth placing all the screw fixings under the stops too.  We did this and it worked a treat, hiding all the fastenings and saving me having to cut and glue plugs.

Was that on line or from a timber merchant?

 

I have tried the only 2 half decent timber merchants I could find in Inverness, Woodstock and Rembrand and neither seemed able to offer me oak to make door frames with.

 

In the last house I did the same as you suggest, frame made in 2 halves with the joint under the door stop but that was only in pine.

 

Skirtings and architrave will almost certainly be the oak veneered offering from Howdens, subject to seeing a sample.

[scottishjohn]

quite normal in big stone walled houses-that door farme is either in middle of wall or offset to one side or the other.

builders choice .

 Ok , 140 mm lining kit +20mm mouldings both sides

usual choice do it right or do it cheap you can seldom get both 

how much can 180mm  x 40mm oak board be  in reality ??

If you wanted cheap should n,t have gone for oak 

[ProDave]

1 minute ago, scottishjohn said:

 

how much can 180mm  x 40mm oak board be  in reality ??

If you wanted cheap should n,t have gone for oak 

It wasn't a question I could not afford it, see post above, none of the timber merchants I have yet tried could offer it, let alone shock me with the price.

[Onoff]

Oak veneered MDF? 

 

Peel n Stick veneer?

[Jeremy Harris]

1 hour ago, ProDave said:

Was that on line or from a timber merchant?

 

I have tried the only 2 half decent timber merchants I could find in Inverness, Woodstock and Rembrand and neither seemed able to offer me oak to make door frames with.

 

In the last house I did the same as you suggest, frame made in 2 halves with the joint under the door stop but that was only in pine.

 

Skirtings and architrave will almost certainly be the oak veneered offering from Howdens, subject to seeing a sample.

 

 

It was online, following on from a recommendation from Joiner.  Normally I'd not risk buying timber without seeing it first, especially something that's going to be on show, but I have to say that these people were pretty good, with all the timber that arrived usable and most of it excellent.  I bought random lengths, with, I think, a minimum of around 2.5m long, and found that most lengths were well over 3m long, which minimised the number of joints I needed to make in the skirting boards, and reduced wastage a fair bit.

[Crofter]

Didn't @Stones mix and match oak and oiled pine on his stairs, to good effect? Depends on how fussy you are going to be.

 

I'm quite glad that I made the decision to go with painted MDF skirts/arcs, and painted pine for the liners. Filler and paint can hide a multitude of sins and it's massively easier and cheaper.

[Onoff]

 

Onto the cupboard door and I've 638mm between jambs. 

 

 

 

The sapele finish temporary door is 30" / 762mm. 

 

Need to find matching oak veneered doors ideally.

[Onoff]

Half tempted to make two doors...

 

Thinking 19mm ply core with bfo holes Starrett cut in it to lighten it up. Then faced either side with 9mm ply. 37mm overall. Route the facing ply. Oak stain.

 

???

[Onoff]

If I go for oak veneered then they seem to be coming out at about 27kg weight wise. Are two 76 x 51 hinges enough or should I be going for 3?

 

Slightly off track and a relative has just been visiting family in the ROI.  Sad lad that he is he commented that even on the cheaper, mass produced housing stock, their doors seem to be nearer 50mm thick rather than the 34mm like the oak veneer ones he and I are looking at in TP/Selco etc.

[Onoff]

SWMBO decreed that "we" would "ruin" oak veneered doors. So off to Wickes for the cheapest of the cheap. Bloody cheek, £32 for a 610mm door.... £22 for a 762mm one! Still need to tweak the frame on the sapele door. 

 

 

 

No reason not to make a nice job on the hinges.

 

 

Might tile this bit tomorrow! That'll just leave around the bath to do.