Ed Davies

Velux clicks, not quite as per instructions

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Today has not gone well, so far.

 

Got first three Velux windows on Monday and opened the first one today. Have previously watched YouTube videos on installation and read instructions. All seems to make sense for the first parts, anyway. First job is to stand it up and separate the sash and the frame.

 

Stand up. Remove white polystyrene packing bits, push handle bar into place. Doesn't click as convincingly as I'd expect, flops down with tongue of plastic free, couldn't get that to engage. Pull directly on lock mechanism, unlocks and swings open fine. Play with that a bit to see if plastic tongue could be engaged properly. Nope. In the process, break the pathetic bit of plastic I think it's supposed to engage on (pieces shown below). Oh well, implausible I can get that sorted before next year but we can live without for now.

 

Pop polystyrene bits on top of sash and swing it down and get it on floor and frame more or less horizontal. Press buttons to release frame from sash. Nope, no click. Can't get them to budge at all. Careful look, doesn't seem to be any other possible buttons or anything. Press with tip of long nosed pliers in case chilly fingers aren't pushing enough. Still no click. While struggling with those manage to break a bit of the insulation in the top of the window.  But that can be stuck back with appropriate glue, I hope.

 

So, any tips on what I might be missing regarding pushing those buttons in?

img_1690-small.jpg

Edited by Ed Davies

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Hi Ed, I fitted 7 Velux in the summer and initially had the same problem. The instructions are not very clear or detailed..

 

Are these Top hung or centre pivot, this is what Velux sent me.

 

Disengaging GPL_GPU Springs.pdf

 

I found a video online which was much clearer. Will look.

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This one is a centre pivot (GGL MK08 2066). The other two in this batch are top hung so any tips on those would be very welcome, too (they're to be escape windows in the two end bedrooms).

 

I'll be getting another four of the next width up (PK08) next year which will all be centre pivot.

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Those jroofingsupplies videos are the main ones I watched. Think I might watch again this evening in case I missed something but it seemed to make sense at the time.

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I also found Velux had crap instructions and flimsy plastic bits that snapped if you looked strongly at them.  I did find that Velux were very good at sending out replacement parts though - FOC and very quickly.

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Hmm, rewatched the video. Only thing I noticed is that the demonstrator had the bottom of the frame resting on the floor and the top on his leg which might have taken the weight off allowing the button to be pushed in. Will try tomorrow. Meanwhile, any other hints welcome.

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Be aware with top hung ones that there is a ratchet spring in them and you need to push the unit out to its highest setting once installed to engage the springs. If you don’t do this, the sash just drops straight back down. 

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Thats the right video to remove the sash from the frame, follow these exact instructions. 

 

As @PeterW said once Top hung installed push up as far as possible and the springs will engage.

Depending on the pitch of your roof you can adjust the spring tension. Anything less than 45 degrees you will need to make an adjustment.

Inside the frame is a tab which you lift and move down, on both sides.

This video at 23 mins shows this and also how to disengage the springs.

 

 

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I was scratching my head when opening the veluxs this summer.

 

I didn't know about the top hung spring clicking activation, have top hung veluxs always been like that?imageproxy.php?img=&key=cc55a271c50209a8

 

The other issues was my centre pivot top level was opened to far and had to click the metal bits at the top to get it to fully close.

 

Had to look for the instructions online to see what was needing to be done.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by Thedreamer

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8 hours ago, Thedreamer said:

The other issues was my centre pivot top level was opened to far and had to click the metal bits at the top to get it to fully close.

 

This sounds like the problem I'm having but it's hard to tell. Do you mean that the latch mechanism on the top of sash was in the wrong position (open too far) to allow the little hook bit on the back of the operating bar/handle to engage?

 

Having re-watched the centre-pivot version of that video at full resolution I have, I think, a clearer idea of how that should work and will have another look at it in detail later this morning.

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4 hours ago, Ed Davies said:

 

This sounds like the problem I'm having but it's hard to tell. Do you mean that the latch mechanism on the top of sash was in the wrong position (open too far) to allow the little hook bit on the back of the operating bar/handle to engage?

 

Having re-watched the centre-pivot version of that video at full resolution I have, I think, a clearer idea of how that should work and will have another look at it in detail later this morning.

 

Yes the bit of metal had to be clicked which then release the handle and allowed the window to be fully shut. This one was over the stairs so was awkward to access.

 

https://www.yarddirect.com/blog/Reasons-Window-Lock/#.XBuRXVz7RPY

 

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That centre pivot window looks over trees. But the big top hung PK10 veluxs are great. I'm 6'3 and can stand completely out of them, would recommend always upgrading to the top hungs ones in a bedroom.

 

These photos were what I pictured it would be like on day one of choosing the site in 2009.

 

P1150928.thumb.JPG.c35d12cf51d49d6133c87be8e743e33e.JPG

 

P1150927.thumb.JPG.046c80f31531707b4f03cd68c7ba49cb.JPG

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I have a few power operated velux (top hung) - roofer installed. I recall some bit or other of plastic coming off on the clip when we were testing the power and our main window guy had some uber super glue that bonded it back on and never had any trouble since. 

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Thanks @Bitpipe , yes, gluing the bit of insulation I broke might well be the answer but I think I'll try Velux (next year) for the small parts at the top in the latching mechanism as the areas of the breaks are tiny for the amount of force involved. Yesterday I got the frame and sash separated OK. Don't know what the problem was the day before; maybe I just wasn't pushing quite hard enough on the buttons as they did need a fair amount of force.

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