Bored Shopper Posted December 5, 2018 Share Posted December 5, 2018 In another topic re brick vs TF someone mentioned that TFs are very sensitive to noise transmission inside house (room to room), and also slamming a heavier than normal door may be an issue. From collective experience, how often does this happen? What are the ways around it? We are deciding re building method at the moment, and each one has lots of pros and cons, but for us key points to consider are: - loadbearing strength of internal walls (lots of heavy cabinets to hang) - room to room noise transmission (a family of extremely sensitive sleepers! plus a galloping cat) - wider than standard entrance door and lots of internal doors which we like shut Opinions are welcome, thank you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Punter Posted December 5, 2018 Share Posted December 5, 2018 I have brick and block on the ground floor and timber frame 1st, 2nd and 3rd. Same spec of heavy doors throughout. I don't notice better or worse sound transmission. If slamming is an issue you can get some strip that fits to the stops that dampens the final few mm and stops rattles and slams. For room-to-room, look at doubling up plasterboard if you go TF and seal the bottom of the board with mastic before you put skirtings. Strengthwise TF is fine. Make sure the frame designer knows what you are putting and where. A lining of 18mm OSB is usually fine for most loads and really stiffens up the wall. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bored Shopper Posted December 5, 2018 Author Share Posted December 5, 2018 @Mr Punter Thank you! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nod Posted December 5, 2018 Share Posted December 5, 2018 Your best route for soundproofing is MF studs If you have heaven cabinets I studs are stronger than timber and perfectly straight 50 mil 70 mil 90 or jumbo 150 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottishjohn Posted December 5, 2018 Share Posted December 5, 2018 (edited) the gyproc jumbo 150 stud walling I had to use that to split a showroom up as i was making 3 units out of one big building for fire proofing as the units were different tennents the spec was one layer of 19mm plank dry wall followed by 2layer of fireline dry wall -- this was onboth sides of the stud frame work ,with a fire curtain hung in centre it is absolutly sound proof and the wall is 5m tall sloping down to 3.5 at other end . so yes if you want sound proof use jumbo studding and thick layers of plaster board . I was worried that it would not take the weight of all that plasterboard 19+30=49mm per side --thats alot of weight still there 10 years later and no cracks in skim coat Edited December 5, 2018 by scottishjohn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nod Posted December 5, 2018 Share Posted December 5, 2018 3 hours ago, scottishjohn said: the gyproc jumbo 150 stud walling I had to use that to split a showroom up as i was making 3 units out of one big building for fire proofing as the units were different tennents the spec was one layer of 19mm plank dry wall followed by 2layer of fireline dry wall -- this was onboth sides of the stud frame work ,with a fire curtain hung in centre it is absolutly sound proof and the wall is 5m tall sloping down to 3.5 at other end . so yes if you want sound proof use jumbo studding and thick layers of plaster board . I was worried that it would not take the weight of all that plasterboard 19+30=49mm per side --thats alot of weight still there 10 years later and no cracks in skim coat We are doing exactly that at the moment Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dreadnaught Posted December 6, 2018 Share Posted December 6, 2018 (edited) 19 hours ago, nod said: Your best route for soundproofing is MF studs Prompted by these comments about using metal studs for partition walls internally, I learning about this. Wondering whether I should use metal studs for my project. Why aren't metal studs more widely used in residential projects? Is it just cost? What are the pros and cons of metal stud over traditional wooden ones? Edited December 6, 2018 by Dreadnaught Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottishjohn Posted December 6, 2018 Share Posted December 6, 2018 joiners don,t like the thin webs for attaching too or thats what iwas told up here local builders merchant had never even heard of them I coud be using them in my own next house ,as the man says --they are straight and thats exactly how i split the workshop -- killer big solid blocks +butress up to 8ft then studding to roof couldn,t lift them any further .LOL and we don,t nice things like that platform to hire locally Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeremy Harris Posted December 6, 2018 Share Posted December 6, 2018 57 minutes ago, Dreadnaught said: Prompted by these comments about using metal studs for partition walls internally, I learning about this. Wondering whether I should use metal studs for my project. Why aren't metal studs more widely used in residential projects? Is it just cost? What are the pros and cons of metal stud over traditional wooden ones? If you go to France you'll find that metal stud walls are very much the normal method of constructing internal walls. The French equivalents to the big DIY sheds are full of the metal stud stuff and it seems pretty much everyone uses it. Here we seem to have a tradition of using timber studs and have stuck with it, I've no idea why, other than the old "I've always done it this way" problem that I'm sure many of us have encountered. Metal studs are often quicker to put up and will be stiffer for a given section (the Young's Modulus of steel is around 10 to 20 times higher than that for timber), but it's not necessarily a given that steel will provide better soundproofing, as being stiff, and have much less internal sound absorption, means that on it's own a steel framed partition wall probably won't be any better acoustically than a timber one. If built as a double partition, with an air gap, which can be done with steel as it's so much stiffer (less thickness needed for a given stiffness) then the acoustic performance can be very good, but this isn't how normal domestic type steel framed stud walls are usually built. No reason why they shouldn't, though, other than a bit of added thickness. They still need internal insulation plus a decent thickness of plasterboard, though. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottishjohn Posted December 6, 2018 Share Posted December 6, 2018 easy enough to fill with acoustic batons will give some insulation as well this is maybe why this type of studding is used in offices etc easy to do ,and good fire +soundproofing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bored Shopper Posted December 6, 2018 Author Share Posted December 6, 2018 Dear All, thank you very much for your comments, we're gradually ploughing through them (getting used to the jargon!) ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottishjohn Posted December 6, 2018 Share Posted December 6, 2018 see gyproc "white book" for all the info you need on how to use them and all plaster products and fireproof times for different boards you can download it from gyproc site https://www.british-gypsum.com/literature/white-book/partitions Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nod Posted December 6, 2018 Share Posted December 6, 2018 2 hours ago, Dreadnaught said: Prompted by these comments about using metal studs for partition walls internally, I learning about this. Wondering whether I should use metal studs for my project. Why aren't metal studs more widely used in residential projects? Is it just cost? What are the pros and cons of metal stud over traditional wooden ones? There not any cheaper Most joiners don’t like them Some house builders use them pros Perfectly straight Easier for services Better sound proofing Fire proof I’ve used them on a weekly basis for the last thirty years Just find them to be so versatile The few studs I have in our build Mainly bathrooms I’ve done in metal Absolutly square and plumb anc no shrinkage 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Punter Posted December 6, 2018 Share Posted December 6, 2018 3 hours ago, Dreadnaught said: Prompted by these comments about using metal studs for partition walls internally, I learning about this. Wondering whether I should use metal studs for my project. Why aren't metal studs more widely used in residential projects? Is it just cost? What are the pros and cons of metal stud over traditional wooden ones? And the cons of metal: Sharp edges Cable routes need grommets through studs Not structural - need timber around doors etc. More tricky to fix to More tricky to cut Can rattle Difficult to separate from plasterboard when demolished 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nod Posted December 6, 2018 Share Posted December 6, 2018 Nah met set is structural I stud is much stronger than timber Very easy to patress no need for grumets Far quicker to wire than timber Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottishjohn Posted December 6, 2018 Share Posted December 6, 2018 all I would say is check the white book on the do,s and don,ts --its all there definately need wood where you fit door frames Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bored Shopper Posted December 6, 2018 Author Share Posted December 6, 2018 (making notes) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavidFrancis Posted December 6, 2018 Share Posted December 6, 2018 @scottishjohn nod is referring to Metsec studs, not British Gypsum ones. Look at their web site - they do structural studs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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