Onoff Posted December 13, 2018 Author Share Posted December 13, 2018 All downstairs rads finally warm to varying degrees. How to desludge then without power flushing? Won't adding a cleaner and leaving that to run around for a bit potentially cause leaks if it dislodges crud at a dodgy old joint? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted December 13, 2018 Author Share Posted December 13, 2018 How about Sentinel X400 System Restorer or X800 Fast Acting Cleaner? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted December 13, 2018 Share Posted December 13, 2018 How about buy 5 tubs of the Cura stuff that is the same price as one Sentinel product..?? Before I put anything in that system I would make sure there is a filter and strainer in the pipework to the boiler or you are asking for blocking up the heat exchanger with crap Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted December 13, 2018 Share Posted December 13, 2018 Just now, PeterW said: How about buy 5 tubs of the Cura stuff that is the same price as one Sentinel product..?? Before I put anything in that system I would make sure there is a filter and strainer in the pipework to the boiler or you are asking for blocking up the heat exchanger with crap Oil boilers will chew most shit up tbh. X400 and leave it break down for a month, rinse it all out and check performance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted December 13, 2018 Author Share Posted December 13, 2018 Just now, PeterW said: How about buy 5 tubs of the Cura stuff that is the same price as one Sentinel product..?? Before I put anything in that system I would make sure there is a filter and strainer in the pipework to the boiler or you are asking for blocking up the heat exchanger with crap Is that in the return to the boiler? Any chance of a pointer to one? Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted December 13, 2018 Author Share Posted December 13, 2018 Rads are all pretty warm tbh. Place is still firkin freezing though! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted December 13, 2018 Author Share Posted December 13, 2018 (edited) Slightly off topic here: The gate valve you can see coming off the bottom of the cylinder was I'm sure down as "balncing valve" on the old sketch pinned to the side of the cylinder. I note that the pipe coming off this gate valve (blue tape) always feels about the same temp as the pipe going into the cylinder - (black tape on it), seems wrong to me. To fit the 3-port I closed this gate valve. Now undone halfway back. What purpose does this serve anyone? Cheers Edited December 13, 2018 by Onoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted December 13, 2018 Share Posted December 13, 2018 Stops the pump flow bypassing through the cylinder when heating and hot water are flowing in unison. It is exactly that, a balancing valve. It’s job is to give proportional flow to the cylinder instead of 100% of what’s available. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted December 13, 2018 Author Share Posted December 13, 2018 (edited) 8 hours ago, Nickfromwales said: Stops the pump flow bypassing through the cylinder when heating and hot water are flowing in unison. It is exactly that, a balancing valve. It’s job is to give proportional flow to the cylinder instead of 100% of what’s available. Ta. How should I set up? Gate valve has 10 turns on it from fully open to bottoming out so I have it at 5 turns back i.e halfway. I wonder if that's why downstairs CH also is slow to heat up if I'm doing HW at the same time...last night when I shut off the upstairs CH flow to try and improve the downstairs CH pressure I probably still had the 3-port porting to do HW. I'll try to close upstairs CH and HW and see if that effects how quick downstairs CH gets warm. Back to the balancing valve is there an ideal in and out temperature on the coil in the tank? Also, how I I calculate the ammount of X400 I need to add, i.e system volume? Working out the pipe runs volume is I guess doable but how do I work out the rad volumes? Cheers Edited December 14, 2018 by Onoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted December 14, 2018 Author Share Posted December 14, 2018 The 22mm expansion pipe coming out of the air separator, that then goes up to the header tank... How high up that pipe would the water in the system go? Thinking if I cut it I could introduce the x400 cleaner and then repair the pipe with a coupler. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted December 14, 2018 Share Posted December 14, 2018 Drain down 20 litres or so and bung it in the f&e tank ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted December 14, 2018 Share Posted December 14, 2018 Qty 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dpmiller Posted December 14, 2018 Share Posted December 14, 2018 how high up the pipe? same as the level in the header tank. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted December 14, 2018 Author Share Posted December 14, 2018 1 hour ago, Nickfromwales said: Qty 2 You mean two lots of X400? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted December 14, 2018 Author Share Posted December 14, 2018 40 minutes ago, dpmiller said: how high up the pipe? same as the level in the header tank. That's what I'm trying to figure, will water in the expansion pipe naturally level out to that of the header tank? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dpmiller Posted December 15, 2018 Share Posted December 15, 2018 yes. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted December 15, 2018 Author Share Posted December 15, 2018 More questions! These are my two controllers. The lower one does Downstairs CH and HW. The downstairs CH being the old 3/4" nominal bore single pipe system. I added the upper controller when I put the 4 modern radiators in upstairs (no heating there before). That was when I added the two 2-port valves to zone upstairs & downstairs. So that upper controller does Upstairs central heating only. The Hot Water side of that controller is doing nothing even though the lights on. Back then it seemed sensible to add another Tower controller and Tower 2-port valves so everything was the same make as the original "contractors pack". I think and may be wrong that these controllers are inherently wasteful. Looking at the photo below, if I set either controllers HEATING setting to CONST, then the HOT WATER follows suit. Pressing the HOT WATER grey button and it won't move off of CONST all the time HEATING is on CONST. Seems very wasteful? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted December 15, 2018 Share Posted December 15, 2018 Been wired correctly as that is the setting for a gravity system which yours was. Not sure you can change those controllers to fully pumped so if you redo it all at some point then I would change the controllers. You can get 3 and 4 zone ones now for very little money. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Davies Posted December 15, 2018 Share Posted December 15, 2018 (edited) http://kb.jungleproperty.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2017/02/Grasslin-Towerchron-QE1-QE2-Installation-and-User-Instructions.pdf Page 4. There's a switch on the back for gravity vs fully pumped. For gravity it'll assume the DHW is heated whenever the CH is on. Had to change the (different) controller here when it was changed from gravity to pumped this year. Edited December 15, 2018 by Ed Davies 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted December 15, 2018 Author Share Posted December 15, 2018 (edited) 2 hours ago, PeterW said: Been wired correctly as that is the setting for a gravity system which yours was. Not sure you can change those controllers to fully pumped so if you redo it all at some point then I would change the controllers. You can get 3 and 4 zone ones now for very little money. Ta. Is mine now deemed "fully pumped" looking at the diagram above? I assume it's worth me changing the controller? Or just put the switches to fully pumped.....not sure what they're on now tbh. Edited December 15, 2018 by Onoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted December 15, 2018 Author Share Posted December 15, 2018 (edited) So I've found a 28mm magnetic filter: https://www.bes.co.uk/intaklean-2-magnetic-filter-28mm-22831 As I understand it though I need to put this in a vertical section of 28mm pipe in the return to the boiler. In the loft the return pipe is completely horizontal. I've just re lagged it: The only vertical drop is behind this boxing in downstairs: Flow I assume is on the left out of the top of the boiler. Return on the right. And looking up: Sound like a plan? Make the boxing in a bit bigger and put the magnetic filter in that 28mm drop? It'd be much more accessible than in the loft for dosing etc. Also is there any reason why the flow can't come out the other side of the boiler at the top? Second to last photo there's a plug there. It'd get rid of that awkward loop of pipe round the back of the boiler. Cheers Edited December 15, 2018 by Onoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted December 15, 2018 Share Posted December 15, 2018 Intaklean body rotates 360 degrees so you can put it in a horizontal pipe but the unit has to be vertical and you have to be able to drain off from the bottom of it. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted December 15, 2018 Author Share Posted December 15, 2018 1 hour ago, PeterW said: Intaklean body rotates 360 degrees so you can put it in a horizontal pipe but the unit has to be vertical and you have to be able to drain off from the bottom of it. Cheers. Only got 140mm here from centre of 28mm pipe to loft floor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted December 21, 2018 Author Share Posted December 21, 2018 Still need to drain a bit off and put the cleaner in...loathe to do it when I've only just got the place semi warm... Looking at other things. It would appear both QE2 controllers were set for gravity since day one. I've slid the switch across to fully pumped like this. So I can now have the HW on independent of the CH! The wiring. Just double checking everything is wired as it should be. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted November 19, 2019 Author Share Posted November 19, 2019 Any ideas what this sticky gunk is on my 3 port valve - in less than a year? It was nutted up with Jet Blue Plus which is what the green tinged stuff is: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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