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Processing planked logs


jack

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Our local sawmill could do it, and are an old-fashioned place where you just walk in and chat to the family members who run it.  I know them all well and could easily ask them if they'd do it, and what they'd charge (not much is my guess).  They have a crude website here: http://www.ridleysawmill.co.uk/ but do everything face to face or over the phone, as they're not really that up with the computer age yet.  The problem would be getting the oak down here and back.

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For the frame, can you get a local wrought iron business or blacksmith to make you one?

 

It would need careful design to avoid looking like a patio item, but it might work.

 

Alternatively, there are lots of chunky metal legs on Ebay, including some of these. Ignore the hairpin legs.

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/bhp/metal-table-legs

 

Ferdinand

 

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I was recently using some oak I Slabbed 5 years ago with a chainsaw mill to make a fire place. To get a good top surface I first got a bit of ply and made a couple of timber sides. I then wedged my oak board in  and levelled it up so that the vary minimum of wood would need to come of the top surface  to get it level. Once it was chocked up I screwed it in place (making sure the screws were well below the finished plane level. I then just stated shooting it through my makita planer / thicknesser what will take up to just over 300mm wide. I just took of a fraction each time to prevent overworking the motor but it worked great. The final result was fantastic and was so smooth I did not even need to sand it. I tried to upload the video I made but failed due to it being the wrong file type....... and I am a dinosaur when it comes to my iPad. I have nearly finished the fire place and will start another thread when it’s done. But I just wanted to show that I did something just like you are talking about with very basic kit. Ie a planer only !  

E68C4F19-90D9-4371-A6F5-95070C166C5D.jpeg

Edited by Cpd
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11 hours ago, Cpd said:

... But I just wanted to show that I did something just like you are talking about with very basic kit. Ie a planer only !  

 

 

Interesting stuff, thanks!

 

13 hours ago, Ferdinand said:

For the frame, can you get a local wrought iron business or blacksmith to make you one?

 

It would need careful design to avoid looking like a patio item, but it might work.

 

Alternatively, there are lots of chunky metal legs on Ebay, including some of these. Ignore the hairpin legs.

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/bhp/metal-table-legs

 

Ferdinand

 

We had a blacksmith (guy who did our stair balustrades) lined up to handle this last year, but he's since closed his business and gone to work in an entirely different field. We'll likely be looking again.

 

The big issue with the legs is getting all the angles even and the bends regular. Perhaps that's easy to do - I (as usual) haven't a clue.

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46 minutes ago, jack said:

 

The big issue with the legs is getting all the angles even and the bends regular. Perhaps that's easy to do - I (as usual) haven't a clue.

 

Do you want tube rather than square section then..?

 

If so, look for a pipework fabricator as they will have a mandrel bending machine - usually hydraulic and possibly CNC too... they are super accurate ..!!

 

 

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45 minutes ago, jack said:

 

Exactly. That's why I don't want to spend a lot of money on it!

 

Just got a budget price from my fabricator of 30 years - £60 per leg in 70x12 flat bar (guess). The kicker is the polyester powder coating, min charge of £125.00. I would add they are a "proper" firm so the fab should be spot on. They sub the ppc out so have little control over that. Plenty of backstreet places around should do it.

 

I'll keep at it!

 

 

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37 minutes ago, Onoff said:

 

Just got a budget price from my fabricator of 30 years - £60 per leg in 70x12 flat bar (guess). The kicker is the polyester powder coating, min charge of £125.00. I would add they are a "proper" firm so the fab should be spot on. They sub the ppc out so have little control over that. Plenty of backstreet places around should do it.

 

I'll keep at it!

 

Stop right there - £60 a leg would be perfect! I'd guessed 60 x 10 but I trust your and his eyes over mine.

 

We were actually thinking of just leaving it raw (with the mill scale still on it - it'll probably flake off on the bends). We did that with the handrail on our stairs and it's developed some really nice patinated areas.

 

Where's your mate based? 

 

Edited to add: maybe by PM would be better...

 

Thanks

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Just now, jack said:

 

Stop right there - £60 a leg would be perfect! I'd guessed 60 x 10 but I trust your and his eyes over mine.

 

We were actually thinking of just leaving it raw (with the mill scale still on it - it'll probably flake off on the bends). We did that with the handrail on our stairs and it's developed some really nice patinated areas.

 

Where's your mate based? 

 

You have pm.

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I agree. I don't know what's underneath - there could well be more to it than you can see.

 

I'm a little concerned about the amount of leverage that could be put onto fixings into the bottom of the table if they just go through the flat bar where it links the tops of the legs.

 

I  think that at the very least there should be a couple of tabs extending along the underside of the table surface, or (as you say) rails linking the legs and attached to the underside.

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5 minutes ago, jack said:

I agree. I don't know what's underneath - there could well be more to it than you can see.

 

I'm a little concerned about the amount of leverage that could be put onto fixings into the bottom of the table if they just go through the flat bar where it links the tops of the legs.

 

I  think that at the very least there should be a couple of tabs extending along the underside of the table surface, or (as you say) rails linking the legs and attached to the underside.

 

Could do a bolted connection for transport or take two lengths of flat bar and weld on yourself...

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24 minutes ago, Onoff said:

One bonus is untreated steel is cheap as. Start galvanizing, powder coating etc and it bumps the price up. You might want "rubber" feet or strip glued on to stop scratches / stains on the floor.

 

Yep, already thinking about a strip of epdm or nitrile rubber along the bottom. Concrete floors make something like this a must!


I hear you on the costs of galvanising etc. We've started getting quotes for galvanising and powder coating our gates and I've been surprised at some (well, nearly all) of the prices coming back. 

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44 minutes ago, jack said:

 

Yep, already thinking about a strip of epdm or nitrile rubber along the bottom. Concrete floors make something like this a must!


I hear you on the costs of galvanising etc. We've started getting quotes for galvanising and powder coating our gates and I've been surprised at some (well, nearly all) of the prices coming back. 

 

Galvanisers few and far between now. Medway galvanizers do both galv and ppc.

 

These people zinc flame sprayed and 2-pack epoxied my brother's astronomy pier:

 

http://beeverlimited.co.uk

 

Before & after but taken on a crap phone:

 

Photo0979_zps836413ed.jpg

 

Photo0980_zps2fd0e18d.jpg

 

12698588_10153626087093001_6670441651434605293_o.thumb.jpg.b681360e9ef7f7d75436ceb486e78460.jpg

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I forgot to mention that it's possible to level boards with a router. There are several vids on youtube that differ only in the design of the jig..

 

 

Edited by Temp
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