Help with kitchen renovation/ 1st house.

[PeterW]

7 hours ago, zoothorn said:

still not able to get notifcations of a reply in my hotmail inbox- is this possible

 

System is sending them - check your spam folder

[zoothorn]

Hi Peter- nothing in my junk inbox either in fact.. thx zootH

[newhome]

11 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

Hi Peter- nothing in my junk inbox either in fact.. thx zootH

 

Well you are definitely following this thread now. Change your notifications so that they appear within the app. At least you will see something when you log in. 

[Onoff]

Forgot to mention this. Stops you driving your pb screws in too deep. 

 

 

https://www.toolstation.com/shop/p66573?

[zoothorn]

Hey I like that bit- can see the idea.. will get one when I'm ready for the PB. At the mo I'm just painting ceiling to do this 1st.

 

Got battens & torx screws (yup- black bit in box/ screwfix). I'm concerned with the rearside of the units: doing the battens, C'tex & PB down behind.. lookslike a devil of a job. And to be honest I don't know how I can get to the lower batten fixing point, & the bottom batten 'rail' across at all..

[zoothorn]

On 22/07/2018 at 20:28, Onoff said:

Forgot to mention this. Stops you driving your pb screws in too deep. 

 

 

https://www.toolstation.com/shop/p66573?

 

Onoff- do you have a batten rail across the top of the vertical battens? I can't see as your blue dpc thing is over the top.. I guess if so its easier to put a batten across, above the tops of the verticals, rather than a series of noggins-?

[PeterW]

Be careful with a horizontal as you will have wires coming down the wall. 

 

Are you not removing the cabinets first..? 

[Onoff]

7 hours ago, zoothorn said:

 

Onoff- do you have a batten rail across the top of the vertical battens? I can't see as your blue dpc thing is over the top.. I guess if so its easier to put a batten across, above the tops of the verticals, rather than a series of noggins-?

 

Yes, in effect I have a top and bottom batten. As I said earlier I made up stud walls consisting of top and bottom battens screwed to the verticals then stood them up. The top batten is screwed to the new ceiling joists - I had the advantage they were new, so I knew where they were plus I had no wires to miss. This left my studded walls floating. I screwed screeding rails to the stud walls and then poured the new concrete wall bringing it up to the underside of the bottom batten.

[Onoff]

My room was not square btw, sort of a parallelogram. I wanted to square it off and leave "depth" for the illuminated pockets. 

 

 

You can see the top batten on this wall:

 

 

In your case you have a ceiling and floor already in place. You want to put the battens on the wall but have the faces flush. If your wall is wildly in and out your plasterboard will follow suit. If that doesn't bother you just whack the battens on. If you want it dead flush maybe put the 1st and last batten on with just 3 screws and string between them? Mark your other verticals on the wall in between and measure to the string. You might have to pick a minimum pack depth (I did 5mm) and put plastic trouser shims or slivers of timber at some fixing points - I used both.

Edited July 24, 2018 by Onoff

[newhome]

5 hours ago, Onoff said:

In your case you have a ceiling and floor already in place

 

I think @zoothorn wants to put the PIR in without removing the kitchen units tho so how to do that? 

 

 

[Onoff]

5 hours ago, newhome said:

 

I think @zoothorn wants to put the PIR in without removing the kitchen units tho so how to do that? 

 

 

 

Remove the worktops and slide sections of pir down between I suppose? Going to be rather bitty! I'll go back and reread his posts. The danger is leaving loads of gaps which sort of defeats the object of insulating the wall.

 

Not impossible...sort of thing I'd do! 

[zoothorn]

Thanks chaps (still can't get notifications of replies, hence the delay in my posts..)

 

So do I need the horizontal battens, sorry I'm not quite following the plan with these right now enough to start. I'm going to have a look see if I can shift the units out/ away  to do the C'tex  job.. then put back onto the PB. Quite a tricky job afaict, so not sure which way to go: ;leave in or shift out/ away.

 

Can you remind me why 'string' is used/ where?

 

Appreciated. zoot

[PeterW]

Take the units out and refit. Quicker and simpler and better finish. 

[joe90]

Take the units out,  much  easier in the long run. Put horizontal battens where you know you need fixings (worktop, cabinets floor and wall) then put other battens in between.

[Onoff]

I have seen people affix sheets of plywood direct to the battens where cupboards, radiators, TVs are going instead of or over the top of pb. Tbh though you can end up with an unsightly board or edge of board on show. 12mm ply would sit near flush with 12.5mm. 18mm ply however would be better for a fixing into but stick out beyond the pb.

 

Aside from the cost it's better to accurately plan where your cupboards are going and make the centre of any horizontal battens a known distance down from the ceiling. Then when it's all pb'd over you simply draw a feint line on the wall and you can put your chunky cupboard screws into that knowing you'll hit batten.

[joe90]

If you want ply all over then it’s best to sheet out with ply then PB over the top, if you join ply with PB the join will always show (IMO), also ply (unless very thick) will not give you as firm an anchor as batten on wall, as with this you can fix through the sheets, barret then wall for heavy stuff. (have you ever tried to lift a wall cupboard when it’s full of crockery?)

[Onoff]

16 minutes ago, joe90 said:

If you want ply all over then it’s best to sheet out with ply then PB over the top, if you join ply with PB the join will always show (IMO)

 

Unless the ply is the exact same size as the cupboard! Mostly I've seen a bit of thick ply attached to the wall through to whatever battens are there and the cupboards attached to the ply. 

 

P.P.P.P.P.P etc!

 

I don't think this op wants to ply all over at all if anywhere, cost etc. It was me just saying what I've seen. Tbh the need for "ply" can be avoided by careful battening. Try and avoid your cupboard screws hitting a concrete screw @zoothorn! !

 

Something like this. Probably easier for you to do the verticals first and horizontal battens between as above bearing in mind where the cupboard fixings are going. And indeed your fixings could go through the pb, batten and into the wall rather than just into the batten.

 

 

 

[zoothorn]

Can someone tell me how to remove the 'skirting' section of the units, under the doors? they have no obvious outside screws showing.

 

I'm attempting to deconstruct the units to pull them out/ to do the insulation job- with them in situ job isn't possible. I'm wondering if this is all to much tbh! I'm panicking a bit. Tops effectively off, drawers & doors removed,. Ok the units seem to be in sections of 2-doors-wide. Ive separated the 1st (under the laptop area in pics).. but its still attatched via the skirting bit.

[newhome]

1 minute ago, zoothorn said:

 

Can someone tell me how to remove the 'skirting' section of the units, under the doors? they have no obvious outside screws showing.

 

 

 

They generally clip onto the legs of the units and pull off. 

[zoothorn]

Ok just seen last 4 replies before ^ this one of mine/ thanks alot for those esp the diagram onoff. So no top horizontal batten rail needed- good one less job.

 

Right then, plan is units out- & Ive taken the plunge & got one side out (laptop area/ easier side of the 2 L-shaped joined together). I plan to do this wall 1st, leave sink unit in place until I've some practise & more confident to do this tricky 2nd side.

 

What I'm left with to cause trouble on this bare wall.. is a window sill, a power point, & a single on-off-w'light switch socket above it.

 

What to do with these?

[zoothorn]

2 hours ago, newhome said:

 

They generally clip onto the legs of the units and pull off. 

 

Nice one newhome.. pinned on so I yanked them off/ prob need to replace.. if not the whole units I'll make that decision later.

[zoothorn]

Onoff.. I just offered the 1st batten up to see- & the walls are not exactly vertical: meaning, if I start at either end with an upright batten touching the side wall @ top, there's a big gap at btm if I set it to level. What do I do here/ how do I start?

 

Ive bitten off way more than I can chew with this job I know it goddamit.. its going to take me a week to put the battens up as the walls go in & out/ really badly all way along. desperately need help chaps!

[PeterW]

How old is the house and how much is a “big gap”..??

 

TBH I wouldn’t level out with what you are doing - battens back to the wall, insulation in the gaps then board on. You won’t see the bottom anyway. 

[newhome]

2 hours ago, zoothorn said:

What I'm left with to cause trouble on this bare wall.. is a window sill, a power point, & a single on-off-w'light switch socket above it.

 

Photo? 

[zoothorn]

3 minutes ago, PeterW said:

How old is the house and how much is a “big gap”..??

 

TBH I wouldn’t level out with what you are doing - battens back to the wall, insulation in the gaps then board on. You won’t see the bottom anyway. 

 

Well the extension which is bathroom/ kitchen, UT room is 1975-85 (main shell of the house is 1830, a top floor 75-85 of 2 beds above).

But this extension is terribly badly built, as is the top floor.

 

If I put batten up at the junction of the "L" level (sensible to start here-?) I have a 1cm gap behind to its wall in the middle (pic 1/ so the wall bows in).. & a 1.5cm gap, at middle, to adjacent wall (pic 2/ so that bows in too).