newhome Posted December 10, 2018 Share Posted December 10, 2018 It's just warning you not to touch it because it's hot. It's not a malfunction warning. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted December 10, 2018 Author Share Posted December 10, 2018 Then that light's the stupidest thing ever. Ok two of you concur = worry over. I think its 'view new xyz with utmost suspicion..' as soon as I get it/ guitar, amp, car even.. probably due to fact I rarely if ever have anything new! or I'm just thicko. Im Terryfkwit2 to Onoff- that's clear enough! I am concerned re. the wood top > cooker & hob. Will wait on PeterW's opinion on this 1st. cheers chaps 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted December 10, 2018 Share Posted December 10, 2018 Just now, zoothorn said: Then that light's the stupidest thing ever. Ok two of you concur = worry over. I think its 'view new xyz with utmost suspicion..' as soon as I get it/ guitar, amp, car even.. probably due to fact I rarely if ever have anything new! or I'm just thicko. Im Terryfkwit2 to Onoff- that's clear enough! I am concerned re. the wood top > cooker & hob. Will wait on PeterW's opinion on this 1st. cheers chaps My induction hob shows a red LED "H".....for HOT! : Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted December 10, 2018 Author Share Posted December 10, 2018 Thats sort of just what I was hoping someone might say. Good- concern elieviated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted December 10, 2018 Share Posted December 10, 2018 30 minutes ago, zoothorn said: I am concerned re. the wood top > cooker & hob. Will wait on PeterW's opinion on this 1st. cheers chaps What hob is it..?? I've fitted an Induction hob into the acacia stuff - glass doesn't even get warm on the edges. Hob units have fans built into them and this draws air up through the bottom of the units to keep the induction rings and the electronics cool. Most hobs just drop in but are centred by steel clips that hold it them in and also create an air gap between the steel box of the hob and the wood. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
newhome Posted December 10, 2018 Share Posted December 10, 2018 @PeterW It’s not induction. It’s this one (ceramic) https://www.manualslib.com/manual/70813/Hotpoint-6361.html?page=4#manual Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted December 10, 2018 Share Posted December 10, 2018 That's fine - max 120c which is well below any problem temperature for wood. Is it new..? Needs the gasket to take up the gaps around the edges and don't tighten it too much. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted December 10, 2018 Author Share Posted December 10, 2018 I stripped it right down to bits/ cleaned & no fan anywhere.. but so far, & using right now no alarm bells.. but I only ever use the small RHS one. This damn light stays put 10mins after I turn it off.. so my querying it wasn't unfounded- but nothing suggests its OTT hot, or any issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted December 10, 2018 Share Posted December 10, 2018 Slap your hampton on it when the red light's showing and report back! 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted December 10, 2018 Author Share Posted December 10, 2018 7 minutes ago, PeterW said: That's fine - max 120c which is well below any problem temperature for wood. Is it new..? Needs the gasket to take up the gaps around the edges and don't tighten it too much. Hi Peter- ok I think I'm happy to put in then. No it was my Ma's (78 so no point asking..) & prob mid 90's, but italy made & parts good quality/ good nick. It would've been helpful if the brackets were in the mid sides, rather than ends, to help just press out the slight concave bow.. but maybe lucky & fixing top in might pull it flatter. Damn hob -is- pretty potent tho, 1-11 on dial & I'm boiling stuff @ 2.5 & at min its still too hot.. but if I buy a new one, sod's law it'll be the bloomin same, & cr*pper quality. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted December 10, 2018 Share Posted December 10, 2018 Just be careful trying to flatten wood with glass...!! I would put a series of screws through the cabinet each side of the hob into the worktop from below Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted December 10, 2018 Share Posted December 10, 2018 Could you ignore any slight bow in the worktop and just set the hob down on a bead of intumescent mastic and baby wipe flush? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted December 10, 2018 Share Posted December 10, 2018 As nothing more than a point of interest sockets should be a minimum of 300mm from the hob. Nothing you can do about it of course. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted December 11, 2018 Author Share Posted December 11, 2018 11 hours ago, Onoff said: Could you ignore any slight bow in the worktop and just set the hob down on a bead of intumescent mastic and baby wipe flush? Reading www info/ similar Q's as mine.. apparantly the idea with hob unlike sink, is to seal it to top but be able to remove it easily enough. So a gasket is the idea here I think. Good advice re. glass top.. I might have tried using it to force the bow down, but I'll rethink/ be careful now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted December 11, 2018 Author Share Posted December 11, 2018 Onoff.. back to mitre clip. Of the 2 bits he's joining, the RHS one meets skirting section already in place, side-on. It has a complex profiled edge, on its far side. How on earth is this done-? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted December 11, 2018 Share Posted December 11, 2018 (edited) 7 hours ago, zoothorn said: Onoff.. back to mitre clip. Of the 2 bits he's joining, the RHS one meets skirting section already in place, side-on. It has a complex profiled edge, on its far side. How on earth is this done-? Good, traditional wood yards have big, like hand sized big, router bits that do all the convex & concave shaping in one hit. MDF skirting I'd guess is moulded. EDIT: Seems MDF skirting is machined: Edited December 11, 2018 by Onoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted December 12, 2018 Author Share Posted December 12, 2018 I mean the 2cm depth/ edge, not how the face profile was made. If we call the face the width, the ~5" high the height.. I'm referring to how this chap shaped the depth/ edge, to fit onto the 'complex' skirting face profile. He pushes/ butt-joints his glued 'L' shaped section, onto skirting set in place (if his D edge was cut straight down.. it wouldn't meet without gaps twds the top- so he's shaped his edge to meet it, somehow). This is the join I'm referring to, as its not a 45* meets 45* mitre joint. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted December 12, 2018 Share Posted December 12, 2018 (edited) 31 minutes ago, zoothorn said: I mean the 2cm depth/ edge, not how the face profile was made. If we call the face the width, the ~5" high the height.. I'm referring to how this chap shaped the depth/ edge, to fit onto the 'complex' skirting face profile. He pushes/ butt-joints his glued 'L' shaped section, onto skirting set in place (if his D edge was cut straight down.. it wouldn't meet without gaps twds the top- so he's shaped his edge to meet it, somehow). This is the join I'm referring to, as its not a 45* meets 45* mitre joint. Done with a "contour gauge" I imagine then jigsaw. You'll love it! For example: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/High-Precision-250mm-Profile-Contour-Gauge-45mm-Deep-Decorating-Tiling-Template/381884447463? Edited December 12, 2018 by Onoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted December 12, 2018 Author Share Posted December 12, 2018 I can't get my noggin around it.. but sure looks a major ballache. I cant work out either pic above! (tho do get a vague semblence of the idea). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted December 13, 2018 Author Share Posted December 13, 2018 Just worked out thats ^ the btm of a door! anyway how the heck the 'pins' fixed > then how its cut.. so I'll leave it/ I'll put outline on & trace (cant see how this blue ^ thingy helps me over this way) & faff-cut it. don't want Mikey & Co behind my cooker xyz. Extractors. Looking in Howdens some fancy flat with glass, other slanted thin steel.. but look same inside. Do these carbon filter jobs actually work, well? or are they just snake oil & only way to do effectively is to pipe outside? alas I don't have luxury of piping out (too far Im told @ 3m even if I could cut hole in roof etc/ major faff), so I either do it poor-man way recycle into kitchen.. or.. as I have the loft above, could I pipe it up into the loft space? assuming its mostly smell & some water vapour, wouldn't it just disperse ok in the failry largish area I have up there? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted December 13, 2018 Share Posted December 13, 2018 Do not vent into an enclosed space !!!!! Use the recirc fan and add a carbon filter - they do work as long as you change or recharge them regularly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted December 14, 2018 Author Share Posted December 14, 2018 Ok thats the plan. It would only introduce more cold if I vented out I just thought/ totally daft for me here (so I dont understand their design then). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferdinand Posted December 14, 2018 Share Posted December 14, 2018 2 hours ago, zoothorn said: Ok thats the plan. It would only introduce more cold if I vented out I just thought/ totally daft for me here (so I dont understand their design then). Is there any reason why you cold not connect to a ventilation roof tile, as happens to flues? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted December 14, 2018 Author Share Posted December 14, 2018 Not in theory- the loft isn't big/ say 2m from entry into loft > out to roof.. but I was told 1.5m or less otherwise xyz/ condensation or s'thing.. plus the last thing I want, surely with my huge cold problem in kitchen.. is a flippin hole with a pipe out to the outside, Id have thought-? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted December 14, 2018 Share Posted December 14, 2018 Just fit a recirc one - there is no need to start cutting holes etc as that would be one job that you would regret about 2 minutes in... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now