zoothorn Posted October 17, 2018 Author Share Posted October 17, 2018 16 minutes ago, Onoff said: What aren't you getting? Stick the feckin angle on with snot, jizzum or blue tac: If you use the stuff I suggested you will need to cut one side off with a Stanley - like you suggested. Stick the remaining side to the pb with the corner nib level with the tiles. Then back fill the edge. Ok I just needed confirmation that my basic idea -was- feasable ie cutting half of the eg pic above.. totally off (so the pic isn't representative of what I'm doing? this is why I'm confused here, these "L" shaped solid jobs it seems are exactly what I'm -not- doing.. unless I'm missing something still). Right so no nails? I thought this stuff was attatched with specific pB pin/ nails. Then I'm (eventually) filling over this half placcy side, with the pink knauff stuff-? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted October 17, 2018 Share Posted October 17, 2018 4 minutes ago, zoothorn said: Ok I just needed confirmation that my basic idea -was- feasable ie cutting half of the eg pic above.. totally off (so the pic isn't representative of what I'm doing? this is why I'm confused here, these "L" shaped solid jobs it seems are exactly what I'm -not- doing.. unless I'm missing something still). Right so no nails? I thought this stuff was attatched with specific pB pin/ nails. Then I'm (eventually) filling over this half placcy side, with the pink knauff stuff-? You can hold in place with wee panel pins if easier for you. Hold a straight edge against it as you affix. Get a smear of no nails on and let dry then fill. Fill over a fair distance to loose the "kick". Wet finger along the nib of the plastic so you get a nice straight edge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted October 17, 2018 Author Share Posted October 17, 2018 Kapisch all the way up to.. " Fill over a fair distance to loose the "kick". Wet finger along the nib of the plastic so you get a nice straight edge. " Mmm.. sorry don't understand the kick or the wet finger = straight edge already. So fill the gap between nib & tile edge.. with grout? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted October 17, 2018 Share Posted October 17, 2018 5 hours ago, zoothorn said: Kapisch all the way up to.. " Fill over a fair distance to loose the "kick". Wet finger along the nib of the plastic so you get a nice straight edge. " Mmm.. sorry don't understand the kick or the wet finger = straight edge already. So fill the gap between nib & tile edge.. with grout? Fill with the Knauf stuff. Run finger along plastic edge to get excess filler off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted October 18, 2018 Author Share Posted October 18, 2018 Aha gotcha- the pic tells me alot. ok all set to do this wknd. Thanks Onoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted October 18, 2018 Share Posted October 18, 2018 19 minutes ago, zoothorn said: Aha gotcha- the pic tells me alot. ok all set to do this wknd. Thanks Onoff Just take your time. See my sketch, you could drop the trim down a tad slightly below the tile so the corner of the tile sits in where the uncut leg and nib meet. Would mean a shallower angle to fill. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted October 18, 2018 Author Share Posted October 18, 2018 I think I'm with you.. so pop the nib/ beady bit down, just over the edge of the tile (down ~5mm~ in your sketch)? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted October 19, 2018 Share Posted October 19, 2018 7 hours ago, zoothorn said: I think I'm with you.. so pop the nib/ beady bit down, just over the edge of the tile (down ~5mm~ in your sketch)? Yep. Try it and see what you think. Whatever you do is a compromise when you go off piste! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted October 24, 2018 Author Share Posted October 24, 2018 Onoff, think I should go for a 5kg tub of 'finishing plaster' rather than my HUGE 20kg bag of knauff powder Im only gonna use 1/6th of? this ~sort of tub I mean, £5 in town (but 'finishing plaster' its called). I have only one full 2.4m height pB taper join.. two 0.5m taper joins.. these edges around 2 windows (pink jizzed + pins).. plus all the piddly screws to fill. https://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Ready-Mixed-Plaster-Skim---White-5kg/p/607027# Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted October 24, 2018 Share Posted October 24, 2018 (edited) 5 minutes ago, zoothorn said: Onoff, think I should go for a 5kg tub of 'finishing plaster' rather than my HUGE 20kg bag of knauff powder Im only gonna use 1/6th of? this ~sort of tub I mean, £5 in town (but 'finishing plaster' its called). I have only one full 2.4m height pB taper join.. two 0.5m taper joins.. these edges around 2 windows (pink jizzed + pins).. plus all the piddly screws to fill. https://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Ready-Mixed-Plaster-Skim---White-5kg/p/607027# Crap pics but looks pretty damn good from what I can make out. You've bought the 20KG bag already? It won't last forever you know, use and bin the rest unless you can take it back and get a refund. When you apply and feather you obviously want to cover the perforated trim with the "plaster" at a shallow angle rather than steep & sudden where it'll be more noticeable. The better you do it now the less sanding back. Some deftly applied decent white silicon where the tiles meet the window would hide that black gap too. Edited October 24, 2018 by Onoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted October 24, 2018 Author Share Posted October 24, 2018 I bought the 20kg bag months ago with the pB etc.. its not been opened. you think its n/g, now ?? the edges were a royal faff.. I was covered in sticky jizz all over my hands & trousers, but I eventually got it up.. then forced some filler in its gap at the end to finish off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted October 24, 2018 Author Share Posted October 24, 2018 Is the knauff stuff the same 'finishing' grade as this tub stuff? the powder all seems fine/ malleable as it was inside.. I hate to waste the vast majority & I can only chuck it afterwards Ive no room to keep it, & it'll not keep in my moist atmos here anyway once opened. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted October 25, 2018 Author Share Posted October 25, 2018 Onoff- you're opinion on these 2 plasters please.. Ive taken the huage 20kg knauff bag back/ just too wasteful to use only 1/5th & bin. These two are the only stuff available, to me here. Do you think one ok for using with tape for my taper edge filling & placcy tile edge feathering? https://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsense-ready-mixed-plaster-white-10kg/23226 This one says max 3mm deep.. https://www.homebase.co.uk/bartoline-plaster-skim-2-5l_p427758 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted October 25, 2018 Share Posted October 25, 2018 1 hour ago, zoothorn said: Onoff- you're opinion on these 2 plasters please.. Ive taken the huage 20kg knauff bag back/ just too wasteful to use only 1/5th & bin. These two are the only stuff available, to me here. Do you think one ok for using with tape for my taper edge filling & placcy tile edge feathering? https://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsense-ready-mixed-plaster-white-10kg/23226 This one says max 3mm deep.. https://www.homebase.co.uk/bartoline-plaster-skim-2-5l_p427758 First one I guess as it says for joints without specifically being "jointing compound". Don't blame me if it doesn't work! I've have as an aside used the small boxes of Bartoline powder before for small patch repairs. Good stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted October 25, 2018 Author Share Posted October 25, 2018 So should I be looking for 'jointing compound' then instead of 'plaster' maybe? there must be a similarity tho surely. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted October 25, 2018 Share Posted October 25, 2018 7 minutes ago, zoothorn said: So should I be looking for 'jointing compound' then instead of 'plaster' maybe? there must be a similarity tho surely. Just make sure you tape the joints and whack whatever on. Worst happens you get hairline cracks but the paint will fill it. Tbh the Gyprob EasiFill is very "easy" to sand. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted October 25, 2018 Author Share Posted October 25, 2018 Ok gonna go for my 2nd then- cos its £4.50 a 6kg tub! (one might do me, & its got 'plaster' in its spiel too) 1st no-nonsense gubbins £14.. & your posh stuff.. £32!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted November 2, 2018 Author Share Posted November 2, 2018 Update- will be putting on a 2nd plaster layer over the seams on saturday, & the window edge areas (these are tricky). One thing I forgot.. the paper-taper-tape! dammit. What do you think; Ive got about 2mm of concave/ dip to level out with the 2nd layer & the large 10" spatula thingy (FishFlipper I call it).. should I put onto this dried 1st layer, or forget it now? its not very smooth tho as as best I could get it so far isn't smooth.. I used the flat side of the smaller 5" end of my tile adhesive trowel thing (the 10" FF too impractical for 1st layer). Not an easy job this plastering job for a newbie.. I'm dreading sanding afterwards, both for dust & catching the pB paper face with the sander pad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted November 2, 2018 Author Share Posted November 2, 2018 Great no more black screw heads! 2nd pic: as you can see not the smoothest surface to put the tape on.. but I do have 2mm taper-edge dip still to 'fill' ( & 2mm filled after this 1st layer more or less). The bartoline plaster is a total bargain btw.. perfectly decent quality, so far as I can tell, maybe even very good. £4.49 for 6kg tub. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted November 3, 2018 Author Share Posted November 3, 2018 @Onoff @newhome @PeterW Anyone know anything about the taper-edge pB joining tape? to aid the plastering of 2x taper-edge pB's. I know it should be put on before, or during, the 1st plaster layer.. but having never used before I simply forgot to put it on. So the 1st plaster layer is dry & about to do 2nd layer, but unsure whether to add the tape now, or just continue without it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted November 3, 2018 Share Posted November 3, 2018 Just now, zoothorn said: @Onoff @newhome @PeterW Anyone know anything about the taper-edge pB joining tape? to aid the plastering of 2x taper-edge pB's. I know it should be put on before, or during, the 1st plaster layer.. but having never used before I simply forgot to put it on. So the 1st plaster layer is dry & about to do 2nd layer, but unsure whether to add the tape now, or just continue without it. Wally! It's meant to prevent cracking (says the man who forgot to put fibres in his bathroom floor concrete). The theory is you have a number of different substrates; the "brick" wall, the timber studs, the pb. They all expand & contract minutely to different degrees. The tape holds the pb together to stop that join where they meet opening up as the timber etc moves underneath. The tape should be stuck to the paper face of the pb. I'd be inclined to not tape now and just be prepared to using a flexible decorating filler later if it cracks later and repaint locally. Others may have a different view! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
newhome Posted November 3, 2018 Share Posted November 3, 2018 4 minutes ago, Onoff said: Others may have a different view! No view here! I know nowt about DIY unless I ask someone on here. Never done plasterboarding in my life lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted November 3, 2018 Share Posted November 3, 2018 Don’t worry about it - it’s dubious as to whether it does add strength anyway. Just do the next layer, sand and paint once and then fill any imperfections. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted November 3, 2018 Author Share Posted November 3, 2018 Ok thanks chaps.. yes I know what I should have done Onoff! tbh I cant even remember where the roll is. How do I sand & not rip the fallible pB face-? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted November 3, 2018 Share Posted November 3, 2018 13 minutes ago, zoothorn said: How do I sand & not rip the fallible pB face-? VERY carefully! The less you put on now, near level as you can, the less sanding / mess. Aim for as smooth a level as you can with the wide filling knife for as little sanding as possible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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