Help with kitchen renovation/ 1st house.

[Onoff]

6 minutes ago, newhome said:

 

@Onoff works just like this . Lots of planning and prep needed and take your time. No point in rushing things and ruining it all after all that work. Remember the 6 Ps - Prior Preparation Prevents P**s Poor Performance 

 

I always thought it was Pi$$ Poor Planning Prevents Poor Performance?

 

I mean, Prior Preparation is all well and good but if it's Pi$$ Poor.....

[newhome]

4 minutes ago, Onoff said:

 

I always thought it was Pi$$ Poor Planning Prevents Poor Performance?

 

I mean, Prior Preparation is all well and good but if it's Pi$$ Poor.....

 

How does P**s Poor Planning Prevent Poor Performance? Surely if it's P**s Poor Planning then Performance will be P**s Poor too? 

[Onoff]

7 minutes ago, newhome said:

 

How does P**s Poor Planning Prevent Poor Performance? Surely if it's P**s Poor Planning then Performance will be P**s Poor too? 

 

Fair point.  Maybe it's PROPER Planning Prevent P**s Poor Performance?

[PeterW]

@zoothorn you need to oil the worktops when they are fitted BUT you need to fix them first with something waterproof. 

 

My  go to glue for anything like this is Titebond - you can’t beat it for this sort of job. 

 

The bolts need you to rout a minimum 22mm depth groove and hole and you will have 8mm or less left - that will crack and shear and you will break it. 

 

I’ve just done 5 sections of this stuff with under mount sinks and 3 joins along both mitre joints and straight joints. I got it to 1/2mm or so and any filling was done using a mix of sanding dust and Titebond. (I have sanded these and refinished them using Osmo Top Oil for reference)

 

All the joints are glued with Titebond, the straight joint was biscuit jointed. All joints are patched from below with 150mm glued and screwed ply panels. You can see a joint in the bottom left of this picture. 

 

 

[newhome]

@PeterW can @zoothorn use that oil as a topcoat on the finished worktop that he has or is that only appropriate if it’s sanded down as you have done? 

[PeterW]

It will go over the top - only reason I sanded it was there were a few ripples in the width and I was making a couple of right angle joins so I wanted it perfectly flat. It also gives a fine finish as it’s had 120 and 360 grit across it on a DA sander so it’s smooth

[newhome]

@zoothorn have you thought of getting a dehumidifier? I know what you mean about the constant dampness. When I was at school (many moons ago) we went on an ecology trip in deepest Wales. Any clothes that got wet never dried and even the dry ones were damp by the end of the week just from being in that damp old house. 

[zoothorn]

Osmo oil is on the list. Good link that newhome. And I'll try to get titebond 3, or if not some waterproof VG woodglue.. & go ply-aided joins. Biscuit cuts.. I hate them as I can never get the slot cut perfectly centrally/ perfectly matched on the 2 edges, however super-well prepped I am, but no choice/ this may be one side 2mm higher than other I just have to accept. This is why I was looking twd -any- other method instead.

 

Looks a cracking job there Peter, & glad to have your input as you recommended the acacia's iirc, now I can see you know best on them!

 

The spiel mentions oiling the inside cut areas, 3x, as well then as a slight nip off one corner/ edge 12" to make a good fit to the bowed in wall. So Ive got raw side sections & a concealed raw back edge 12" to consider before I fit the worktop into it.

 

Due to the gnats chuff fit of bowl into cabinet frame, below the top, fitting sink in -after- the tops fitted.. isn't possible. So plan is..

 

1) I need advice on the small PB section @ the plumbing area as onoff alludes to/ seal this or prep/ make good,

2) get all the cabinets in on 2 sides

3) prep the tops' "raw/ cut" areas, ie inside c/o

4) fit sink to top1

5) fit top1 in

6) join tops/ fix top2 in

7) plumb bits in

8 ) oil tops.. alot

 

This will prob take you guys or an experienced fitter a morning, but will likely take me the whole week.. the only downside.

[PeterW]

I would measure that upstand section and decide what you want it to look like. Have you got any worktop spare ..??

[zoothorn]

3 minutes ago, newhome said:

@zoothorn have you thought of getting a dehumidifier? I know what you mean about the constant dampness. When I was at school (many moons ago) we went on an ecology trip in deepest Wales. Any clothes that got wet never dried and even the dry ones were damp by the end of the week just from being in that damp old house. 

 

Yes I did when I 1st moved here.. I was in deranged panic mode worrying about my 2000 Lp's chiefly. I tried one.. & it filled litres of water within hours (alarming).. but its completely p*ssing in the wind such is the microclimate: its very unusual, more akin to a rainforest- no apes (well one) but no exageration re. moisture. Something to do with the end of a small valley/ 'bowl' as we are, pine forests high close around, sea mist drives in horizontally. Beautiful tho. Its just a Q of living with it/ getting used to it rather than trying to attack it- you just cannot win, or even makes inroads.

[zoothorn]

2 minutes ago, PeterW said:

I would measure that upstand section and decide what you want it to look like. Have you got any worktop spare ..??

 

Can you remind me what upstand means 1st.. are we talking the small lower join section of pB (between my 2x full width ones L & R of wall2)?

 

Thanks chaps ZootH

[PeterW]

27 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

So Ive got raw side sections & a concealed raw back edge 12" to consider before I fit the worktop into it.

 

Before starting this - go buy some cheap baby wipes ..!!! 

 

Don't bother oiling the back edge. Clean it up with some sandpaper and get a tube of cheap clear silicone sealant. Good bead down the back of the board and push it tight against the wall and let the sealant squidge out everywhere. Screw the top from under the cabinet through the front rail then clean off the excess sealant with a scraper then go over it with baby wipes until all the excess is off. 

[newhome]

Upstand is the bit that goes up the wall behind the worktop. Sometimes called a splashback. Think you had tiles there before? Whatever you need to protect that PB where the worktop joins and above it. Some PVA wouldn’t be a bad idea for now as @Onoff suggested. 

[newhome]

Here’s one at the back of a wooden worktop. Prevents spills etc getting onto the wall. 

 

 

[Onoff]

Biscuits joints...

 

I butt the two boards together the use bits of thin masking tape either side of the join. A pen marks across the join onto both bits of tape. Do for however many biscuits you're having. Separate the worktops and draw a line down the face. Centre your biscuit joiner on the line. When they go back together it's all bang on:

 

 

[Onoff]

20 minutes ago, newhome said:

Here’s one at the back of a wooden worktop. Prevents spills etc getting onto the wall. 

 

 

 

Splashback.....wasn't that a track by Imagination?

[newhome]

12 minutes ago, Onoff said:

 

Splashback.....wasn't that a track by Imagination?

 

Lol, the only one I remember is Just an Illusion. Maybe ZooT has them in his record collection ?. 

[newhome]

Who can help with the plumbing bits? I’ve no clue other than they will likely be round ?. 

[Onoff]

55 minutes ago, newhome said:

Who can help with the plumbing bits? I’ve no clue other than they will likely be round ?. 

 

Some photos inside the cupboard in relation to the taps etc might assist.

[zoothorn]

6 hours ago, newhome said:

 

Lol, the only one I remember is Just an Illusion. Maybe ZooT has them in his record collection ?. 

 

Imagination! I can barely recall the name being of a band let alone a song.. some sort of 80's soft disco? I got Chic mind! that close enough?

Onoff cheers for that- I do exactly this procedure with 3/4" pine.. rarely can I get the surface flush tho, most times its 1mm min out. Its pot luck & I can never understand why.. poor cutter it can only be/ will have to do tho.

 

Ok bought some 3058 clear Osmo oil (howden's- bored m'aged mngr woman major flirting with zoot! he had to make excuses to get away).

And 6x Hep20 elbows, 2x Hep20 1/2" > 15mm male input jobs, 20x metal inserts, coloured whatnots, some clean 15mm pipe.

 

Can't cope with all the placcy waste bits & odd o'flow thing stuff as well/ I'd have needed a sleep outside screwfix. Have to be done wed: so if you could help with what I need on this front I'd be grateful.

 

What I had in mind for the upstart is a long strip of hardwood (maybe 1/4" x 1" H ) all along this top, oak or so to ~match the top as best as, once top's selaed in place. Then varnish it copiously.. or Osmo it too? Then tile the sill; Is that a decent plan?

 

Pic of cupboard inside coming up..

Edited September 3, 2018 by zoothorn

[Ferdinand]

18 hours ago, newhome said:

 

How does P**s Poor Planning Prevent Poor Performance? Surely if it's P**s Poor Planning then Performance will be P**s Poor too? 

 

P^^ssed?

 

Poor Performance Prevented by Passed-Out Protagonist.

Edited September 3, 2018 by Ferdinand

[zoothorn]

The pink shows the flex endpoint, they'll just go thru gap above (between bowl & drawer runner), & need to go one fwd, one back a bit of it. The waste pipe peeps thru LHS with sponge in (pongs).

 

The only issue, is the o'flow pipe lying here: it -cannot- get thru this gap. I'll need to fashion something.. or.. just not use it/ block the outlet: I never use a kitchen plug anyway ever, just a placcy bowl within it.

 

Pic 2 is the old stuff removed.. reuseable? can be cleaned, if needs be.. (£53 on 0.5l of oil & the Hep20 bits today alone + placcy bits to get = cost of the mixtap!).

 

 

[zoothorn]

Peter, cutting edge of worktop2 to butt up against t'other.. I have an angle to cut off the end. Now you alluded to " I guess you know how..? ":

 

well do I.. is there a better method than measuring this gap > applying to opposite side > mark/ score line w'blade > cut (over by 5mm with a jigsaw 1st > tidy up clean onto the line with a router via straight edge was my thinking)-?

 

Also here's hep2o bits.. anything missing? (think maybe I got 2x too many elbows in fact-?). I'm cleaning waste grey/ white bits to re-use.

 

 

[zoothorn]

I worked out o'flow thing with all my brainpower at 2am. Thankfully red bit's squashy, & just squeezes thru gap only presssing runner in a few mm's/ fine, once Id cut off a good bit of joining grey 'L' pipe/ done. This is how tight things are due to huage bowl.

 

 

[newhome]

@zoothorn if you use the @ sign and then start typing someone’s username immediately following you can select the person you are directing the question at from the list of users. Then they will get a notification that you have directed a question at them @PeterW ?