Onoff Posted August 10, 2018 Share Posted August 10, 2018 Sorry mate I've had enough. If you can't be bothered to read back from a couple of hours ago then I'm done with this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted August 10, 2018 Author Share Posted August 10, 2018 Ok I'll go back over the days' replies onoff. I must have missed some replies by sounds of it.. If I can't get notifications them I'm not as up to speed as you. Please stay with me.. I'm at my -most totally- confused right now, I'm panicking/ I cannot cope or understand a no. of things, all at once that's all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted August 10, 2018 Author Share Posted August 10, 2018 I think some success.. thanks the lord. its not great, only fairly good but not too bad I'd hope for a 1st stab. Screws to be removed I'd think. I know onoff said to not drive full down after the mess I made 1st time, but does that mean they're specifically not meant to be driven down flush ever/ at all, into this stuff-? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted August 10, 2018 Share Posted August 10, 2018 Take the screws out gently then and see if everything stays there. Or take 'em out, carefully countersink the pb face and screw back in. Just try that on one or two to start with. Set drill on lowest torque, the screw setting NOT the hammer or drill setting. If it won't drive the screw in go up another notch on the torque setting. Put them just under flush. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted August 10, 2018 Author Share Posted August 10, 2018 Ok will try that I can get a nice low torque. I think split the difference maybe- redo 1/2 w'countersunk, take out 1/2. PolyS did stick well to plaster.. The idea I had, which now I don't know's even valid (now you've said you tiled -all- your reveal onoff.. I thought twas justs sill twds start of thread ~ pg6 so followed like a lemon!) is once the screw heads were filled, to paint reveal area simply a continuation of adjacent wall, maybe tile btm or wood sill ontop. Is painting feasable? Im a bit confused on whether Ive blindly followed a bathroom project not suitable for a kitchen (I didn't ever want to tile all 4 bits here). Anyway did a bit more than y'day I think.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted August 10, 2018 Share Posted August 10, 2018 Halleuja! That's really looking something! Perfectly feasible to fill, sand & paint the reveal. You will have to sink the screw heads under slightly. You'll then need something like this for the top and sides assuming you put a wood sill on: https://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Thin-Coat-Anglebead-2-4m/p/9000036437 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted August 10, 2018 Share Posted August 10, 2018 Your camera res seems a bit low btw but a bit of a gap between sides and sill? No worries, low expansion foam the gap and cut flush with the side when dry. The wood sill will cover it. Where the top and sides meet the window I'd do those gaps with a flexible filler. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted August 10, 2018 Share Posted August 10, 2018 Corner beads; something like this: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted August 10, 2018 Share Posted August 10, 2018 Have a good look where the Celotex meets the battens and foam ANY gaps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted August 10, 2018 Author Share Posted August 10, 2018 My day's work just complete (10am-8pm had to make up for y'days pickle) finally a productive one! thanks so much onoff. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
newhome Posted August 10, 2018 Share Posted August 10, 2018 That's looking great, well done! And well done @Onoff too!! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted August 10, 2018 Share Posted August 10, 2018 No problem. I'm now on strong medication myself because of this thread. I was teetotal before this! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted August 10, 2018 Share Posted August 10, 2018 10 minutes ago, zoothorn said: My day's work just complete (10am-8pm had to make up for y'days pickle) finally a productive one! thanks so much onoff. How do those reveal boards feel, solid enough? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted August 10, 2018 Author Share Posted August 10, 2018 That beer or seven should be on me- enjoy onoff. Reveals.. tbh solid enough.. I was worried about this but seem ok. I'll fill the gaps sides @ top to shore up & backs of the 4/ odd gaps. Here's one reason why Im stressed out/ other side. Imagine this side + last night's demolition t'other side.. Im living like a tramp at the mo! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted August 10, 2018 Author Share Posted August 10, 2018 2 hours ago, Onoff said: Halleuja! That's really looking something! Perfectly feasible to fill, sand & paint the reveal. You will have to sink the screw heads under slightly. You'll then need something like this for the top and sides assuming you put a wood sill on: https://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Thin-Coat-Anglebead-2-4m/p/9000036437 Isn't the idea with these to use with 3mm skim tho? skimming's a skilled job/ a job too far for me .. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted August 10, 2018 Share Posted August 10, 2018 19 minutes ago, zoothorn said: Isn't the idea with these to use with 3mm skim tho? skimming's a skilled job/ a job too far for me .. No, you only skim the corners of the board not the whole board: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted August 10, 2018 Author Share Posted August 10, 2018 2 hours ago, Onoff said: Ah ok I get the idea, but looks like tapered edges are part of the plan? so only possible if they're bang at the place you want tho.. @ edge of the reveals; my PB's will be all std edge at these edges. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted August 10, 2018 Share Posted August 10, 2018 1 minute ago, zoothorn said: Ah ok I get the idea, but looks like tapered edges are part of the plan? so only possible if they're bang at the place you want tho.. @ edge of the reveals; my PB's will be all std edge at these edges. As I said earlier I couldn't tell from your camera res but it can be two tapered edges meeting, two straight edges or one of each. So if yours is two "standard" edges you'll need to feather both sides. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted August 10, 2018 Share Posted August 10, 2018 You could cheat and stick this sort of thing up the sides and across the top and forget the filling: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted August 10, 2018 Author Share Posted August 10, 2018 Ah hang on I did have tapered is PB didn't I.. but unfortunately (for this idea) the 2nd go at these 4 panels & they're all uniform flat (bar top bit of sides). If that's what you meant, I'm impressed you remembered that i had tapered ins PB. But only 2TE mind you. I can't see why, inprinciple I can't just fill the edge thats showing.. but I guess that's n/a. What is feathering involve, apart from feathers? [[[ onoff I'm concerned: you need time off for now.. pick this up tmrw. ]]] huge thanks. zootH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted August 10, 2018 Share Posted August 10, 2018 18 minutes ago, zoothorn said: Ah hang on I did have tapered is PB didn't I.. but unfortunately (for this idea) the 2nd go at these 4 panels & they're all uniform flat (bar top bit of sides). If that's what you meant, I'm impressed you remembered that i had tapered ins PB. But only 2TE mind you. I can't see why, inprinciple I can't just fill the edge thats showing.. but I guess that's n/a. What is feathering involve, apart from feathers? [[[ onoff I'm concerned: you need time off for now.. pick this up tmrw. ]]] huge thanks. zootH Feathering is just where the filler is thick at the corner then itself tapers by sanding down to blend into the wall. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted August 11, 2018 Author Share Posted August 11, 2018 I'm digging my new toys.. just done test & drill bits ace: thank god screws c'sunk without PB (std stuff) edge breaks: big relief. The foam gun's great (now my explosions ceased!), the yellow scraper things great, PB carry thing might be of use soon. All very sound advice. I'm next considering the prospect of handling a 8x4' PB, in here being only 8x8' tall. 4 inches headroom.. so can't manoeuvre landscape > portrait. Only way is flat down, & tilt on the short edge.. but can't see how alone w'out a 'snap'. Ive got to get in place to 1st outline the pesky curve edge / then down & cut *, then back up to check / down.. can this be done 1 person? And * I need to establish how, IE, the 2nd piece along (PB 1 & 3 along this wall need "C" sort of shape cuts for window). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted August 11, 2018 Share Posted August 11, 2018 (edited) I have, before, clamped a piece of timber 2400mm long, along the centre of the board (both ends) to be able to tilt on the short edge, to help me when lifting boards vertical on my own. Two people easier of course. Edited August 11, 2018 by Onoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted August 12, 2018 Author Share Posted August 12, 2018 That's a fab idea.. got 2.4m battens sitting here for other wall. I'll use a 8x4' C'tex 1st to rough guage how it'll fit 1st. Do I need any specific cutter to nip off this pesky wee curve to the edge-? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted August 12, 2018 Share Posted August 12, 2018 1 minute ago, zoothorn said: That's a fab idea.. got 2.4m battens sitting here for other wall. I'll use a 8x4' C'tex 1st to rough guage how it'll fit 1st. Do I need any specific cutter to nip off this pesky wee curve to the edge-? Tbh once the board is upright I'd mark the wiggly line and cut it whilst it's standing up. Ordinary Stanley NOT the craft knife. You're close to the edge so be bloody careful as you'll likely be using your free hand to steady the board. Sandpaper to finish off where you can't get the surform in. Quickest & most accurate would be a jigsaw with a blade you don't mind blunting. Or for a specific blade these: https://www.toolstation.com/shop/Power+Tool+Accessories/d80/Sabre+%26+Jigsaw+Blades/sd2581/Tungsten+Carbide+Grit+Jigsaw+Blades/p67688 Dusty though! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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