Help with kitchen renovation/ 1st house.

[zoothorn]

12 minutes ago, Onoff said:

Screwfix/T'station both do a Roughneck make heavy duty plastic version for the same money

 

Nice one- I'll get one of these in town too. Onoff can you recall the PB bit you linked to again? it'll take me an age to find it.. maybe screwfix have one too.

[Onoff]

3 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

 

Nice one- I'll get one of these in town too. Onoff can you recall the PB bit you linked to again? it'll take me an age to find it.. maybe screwfix have one too.

 

Here you go:

 

https://www.screwfix.com/p/ph2-drywall-screwdriver-bits-ph2-2-pack/6623V?

[zoothorn]

Cheers onoff- just in time I'm out the door..

[Onoff]

10 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

Cheers onoff- just in time I'm out the door..

 

If you'd have read it and taken it in the first time...

[zoothorn]

I did read it indeed! thought it was great idea/ & mental noted.. but it'd taken me 1/2 hr to find which bloomin post you see.. I was in a rush for a dental appt, so cheekily I admit asked if you could just recall the item for me onoff. I'll jot down ideas as I go now/ understood.

 

Ok got them, rasp whatsit, mortar, PB hod whatnot.. no extention boxes tho (none on ebay too) in next week ~maybe. So I'll crack on with sill mortar > insulated (30mm only have in) PB window job > then can prob C'tex around sockets/ add these last?

 

I saw 12.5 Gyproc's in Jewsons.. crikey they're gonna be damn tricky manouevering those 2400 x 1200 alone let alone hauling into place/ fixing. I had my eye on the easier 1800 x 900's tbh.. but haven't I battened only for the bigger ones?

[Ferdinand]

21 hours ago, Onoff said:

 

Sitting down to watch Designated Survivor on Netflix tbh...

 

Hoping the missus will join me on the sofa as the kids have nicked the cushions and I can lean on her instead!

 

Cushions.

 

One of the undoubted plagues of life.

 

Exodus should have had them between Plague of Frogs and Plague of Boils.

 

F

 

[Ferdinand]

8 hours ago, joe90 said:

 

Thats why I keep my other half out of my Workshop!.

 

“They looked like scissors so I put them with the scissors”.

[zoothorn]

The soudal low expansion foam is only available in the gun-can. A bit much for me to go gun+ this £9 can + gun cleaner = approx £40.

 

Is there any low expansions you know of in a one-time can? or, can std high expansions be used in small ammounts to fix the C'tex to the walls, & fill small gap between them & battens?

 

The can I got today expands to 60x can (the shelf "Thing" was born via a 30x can!). If I take a whack of codeine + amitryptyiline again, & this 60x can.. it might all go flippin nuts.

[Ferdinand]

You can get your screws on good centres by using the ‘Method Of Halves’, if you do not want to measure and mark, or are not happy with eg a handspan as a measurement.

 

On a 6-8ft plasterboard, it will give you a good approximation to 125-150mm since you will need 8 equal gaps between your screws.

 

Put a screws at top bottom and middle to hold it, then put the next one in the middle of each gap. Do it again and then once more, and you should have evenly spaced screws.

 

Ferdinand

Edited August 2, 2018 by Ferdinand

[Onoff]

Cheap foam gun:

 

https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Professional-PU-Expanding-Foam-Gun-Grade-Applicator-Chrome-Plated-All-Metal-Body/323051877832?

 

 

Can't help on cheap low expansion foam. If you want to try with the normal stuff then fill whatever gap with half or less than the gap is big.

 

Gun cleaner is about a fiver a can wherever. 

 

So just over £20 for a cheap gun + cleaner + a can of the Soudal Low Expansion Foam.

 

Better? Best I can do!

 

 

 

 

[Onoff]

Manoeuvring boards...can't say much really, many of us here have and single handed too.

 

Mine were in fact 2700 x 1200 12.5mm thick. My floor to ceiling height was 2470 and I couldn't be arsed putting in a 70mm strip. (With hindsight I'd have put the ceiling joists in lower).

 

I transported them on my estate roof rack atop a sheet of ply. TP put them on with the forklift. Got them all off on my tod and transported again on my own with the carrier thing with them horizontal. It's a bit of a trick turning them upright for sure and you risk them snapping in the middle. Maybe YouTube "how".

[Ferdinand]

Found some more Zoot Music. Apparently this 60s band is called Zoot, playing a cover of Eleanor Rigby.

 

I think the vocalist may have escaped from the first Shatner version of the Star Trek title sequence.

 

 

[zoothorn]

Good idea on that gun.. I think I'll get one of those, & the low expansion soudal foam @ screwfix.. good info!

 

Right done the sill ~ fairly flat/ it'll do.

 

 

[Onoff]

15 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

Good idea on that gun.. I think I'll get one of those, & the low expansion soudal foam @ screwfix.. good info!

 

Right done the sill ~ fairly flat/ it'll do.

 

 

 

Looks alright. That's right hand side is a bit low maybe?

 

Is it the window on the pi$$?

[zoothorn]

Hi onoff- no just looks like it/ photo prob. The window's a fraction on thecock but good enough for me. the sill's ~nr as dammit level.

 

Just bought your ^ gun. Is the cleaner stuff is specifically for the gun.. rather than 'foam cleaner' off stuff you've applied it to-?

 

I'm using this soudal stuff to fix the ins PB onto the mortar, & plaster sides/ top of sill-reveal area.. is that right can you remind me?

 

If I can manoeuvre the PB big board into place in 'upright position', on the LH side of the wall/ starting from here, then I'm only ~4" off the full H of the room. So, hopefully if I can just prop it up onto s'thing handy, then get it/ pin it on flush with the ceiling. Ive never handled these PB tho (esp cutting the slight curve to the edge 1st > then propping up into position > then s'how marking the window bit to cut it into a "C shape" > then prop up/ pin on) so I'm a bit concerned even still.

 

 

 

[Onoff]

"Foam cleaner"  is really just gun cleaner - same thing. It's universal and should fit any gun. (Note this will only remove wet foam. Totally different thing to "foam eater" used to remove set foam).

 

Yes use the Soudal Low Expansion to help fix the insulated pb to the top, sides and sill. Don't overdo it, just some thin lines. Once down don't go pulling it off again to "adjust". A light trigger spray misting of water on both surfaces will help - damp not wet! You will need to weight down the sill bit (bricks?) and prop / support the sides & top like in my pics. The main "holding" is done by the edge screws into the batten around the window reveal.

 

 

 

[Onoff]

Have you started boarding yet?

 

You need to decide how you're going to finish the reveal where the pb meets the insulated pb. I was tiling so everything gets covered. Quickest is probable some form of L trim be it wood, plastic or metal.

 

If you look at mine I fitted the insulated pb in the reveal first.

 

I measured the deepest bit of the reveal from batten face to window. I then cut 4 strips from the insulated pb to that width making best use of the insulated pb. If the window is less than 1200x1200 then it's 4 strips off the board width ways and a nice square bit left over!

 

Cut the sill bit to width, slide into the reveal then put a straight edge across the battens either side and draw a line on the piece. Cut to that. Do the same with the top and sides. You should then have 4 bits of insulated pb that fit the reveal and come level with the battens. Fit these with low exp. foam, screw at the front and bricks to weight down a bit, sticks to keep in place.

 

If you don't have a small, willing child to fit the reveal and mark the cut out the you CAN if you want cut your pb once on the wall assuming it fits height wise!

 

- Screw the pb to the battens as aforementioned.

- Measure from face of insulated pb on the left to the rhs of the board you've just put up. Do it at the sill and header positions.

- Transfer those dimns to the front of the board. Add marks 3mm to the right of these and draw a straight line down. 

- Do the same for the top and bottom adding 3mm. A big square is useful here. If you're not sure where your cut line will end up you can drill some holes with a 2mm drill to find the corner where the lhs and sill bits meet. 

- Cut with the Stanley and clean up the edges with the surform plane.

[PeterW]

Didn’t think he was using insulated PB..??

[Onoff]

14 minutes ago, PeterW said:

Didn’t think he was using insulated PB..??

 

For the reveal I think now.

[zoothorn]

2 hours ago, Onoff said:

 

For the reveal I think now.

 

Hi chaps- yes I'll be using insulated pB for just the reveal. I'm going over onoffs notes on how its done now. Can't at the mo establish whether the sides go ontop of the sill piece, or down beside it (I mean where the two meet).. & why I'd need a small person to mark xyz.

 

I'll go back over the pics of your reveal job today onoff, which should answer these Q's.

 

Gotta wait on both the box extensions (midweek) & the gun via post now.. so a while before the reveal done > then C'tex > then main PB job, so I really appreciate your keeping tabs on progress! trying to think what else I can do in meantime.. but nothing afaict: in order to attack the other wall with battens I have to remove sink/ then a fair while whilst its out  to new one in, which needs careful planning to keep this time at minimum poss.

 

Can you remind me if the C'tex is attached on the wall in between the battens with anything? I guess it just needs 'help' to not fall out befpre the PB pushes it in place, rather than firm sure fixing? what if so.. then maybe I can crack on with this job.

 

 

 

[Onoff]

Sides go between will and header bits. Keeps the ends of the sill down and the ends of the header up!

 

The small person was to mark with a pencil the cut out required for the pb whilst I pushed the pb against the battens.

 

Shouldn't be any need to hold the C'tex in between the battens with anything unless it's well loose. Push it in and low expensive foam any gaps. Not too much foam though you only want it at the sides not behind the Celotex. Less is more, easier to add foam later than cut away.

[newhome]

9 minutes ago, Onoff said:

Shouldn't be any need to hold the C'tex in between the battens with anything unless it's well loose. Push it in and low expensive foam any gaps. Not too much foam though you only want it at the sides not behind the Celotex. Less is more, easier to add foam later than cut away.

 

What you mean is, wait for the foam gun, use lightly, and avoid any giant foam monsters emerging from the abyss at all costs ?

 

Sounds like you could crack on with the celotex @zoothorn while you are waiting and fill and small gaps once you have the gun, the right foam and gun cleaner. 

[zoothorn]

Gotcha onoff- on board with that info cheers. As the window's all of 90cm away from the LH wall edge (luckily 110cm from RHS wall edge).. I may be able to squeeze behind, in reveal area, to mark the "C" cutout myself instead of small person, if I can rope n'bor to hold PB in place (I bet not as simple as tho). Its the slight-curved edge profile to cut beforehand I'm not looking fwd to, or hauling these sods into house when it may be raining.

 

C'tex & PB delivery thurs.. so can only crack on then.

 

In meantime I'm researching the plumb faff to unhook my sink > put 2 stopper valves on > redo water supply so I'll only have the sink out of action (for min time poss- not so short in my case alas as all wall work, plus unit work [inc sink cutout/ seating] to do on this side before new sink can be connected back up). I did compression joints before successfully to hook my shower up.. so can do again. Just gotta remind myself how I did them!

[Onoff]

Pretty sure someone said something similar earlier I think....NO I'm not going back to find who/when!

 

Butt your board up to the dodgy wall. Measure the maximum that it's "out". Cut a disc with a hoke in the middle. The appropriate sized hole saw would be ideal. Run it down the wall/board and you'll get the near exact profile of the dodgy wall transferred to the pb. Alternatively use a small block of timber and do much the same thing. Or just a straight edge if the outs are long, straight sections.

 

 

Then cheap plaster filler etc which you can get in a tube. This dries semi hard so you can sand it:

 

https://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsense-instant-plaster-filler-white-310ml/72591?

 

Or even cheaper caulk. This is a bit more rubbery:

 

https://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsense-decorators-caulk-white-310ml/57568

Edited August 6, 2018 by Onoff

[zoothorn]

good one onoff- I think I get the idea(..)/ recall Peter I think said somthing similar, morelike your block/ pencil idea. I like your diagrams!

 

I may be tempting fate by asking so soon.. but can I get away with -not- plaster/ skimming these PB's? I will be tiling + units hiding 3/4 of the PB area.. but still leaves some mostly near door/ immediately noticeable. (Is that basically the principle of these 2 fillers you link to-?)