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Cut a patch of polythene in a square, say 300x300. Tape it on to a completely dry patch of concrete and leave for a day or two. You need to tape all 4 sides completely. Take it off after a day or two and see if it's damp - if so, the concrete is still curing (it always will but initially gives off lots of moisture). That could help narrow it down now to concrete giving off moisture or maybe tracking moisture from external? 

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5 minutes ago, jamiehamy said:

Cut a patch of polythene in a square, say 300x300. Tape it on to a completely dry patch of concrete and leave for a day or two. You need to tape all 4 sides completely. Take it off after a day or two and see if it's damp - if so, the concrete is still curing (it always will but initially gives off lots of moisture). That could help narrow it down now to concrete giving off moisture or maybe tracking moisture from external? 

That slabs been there for 3 years ! Surely it’s cured by now ? ?

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36 minutes ago, jamiehamy said:

Ah! I wasn't sure how fresh it was and just trying to cover bases! 

To be honest ( from memory ) i’m Fairly certain that corner has always had that fault and track . Tried to find an old photo but couldn’t . I’m 99% sure the corner ‘leaked’ when just the slab was down . Obviously as I had holes everywhere I didn’t worry about it 

Edited by pocster
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I THINK I may have found something.

Ordered some Dye to prove it.

 

Here's what I think is happening...

Today I decided to hose down the outside of the lane wall - underneath was damp and showed water track marks as usual.

 

Someone turned up - so I stopped hosing and spoke to them for 15 minutes.

 

I then went underneath and it was I THINK far more clamy and damp on the ceiling.

 

Whilst all track marks (apart from 1) seem to go to the edges and the water appears to come in above the original slab and in the 'void' i.e. where the insulation is ; got me thinking....

 

The below ground blocks etc. were all poured as one. But the 100mm slab and 35mm reinforced concrete were done after.

What's to stop a hairline crack being between these separate pours? . There's no detail in the architects design for this. But at the edges what stops water getting 'in-between' the layers?

IMG_9011.jpg

Edited by pocster
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3 minutes ago, jamiehamy said:

I have a feeling this is it... And there will be solutions, both short and long term. Fingers crossed you get the root cause and then focus on solution. 

Yeah . It causes a few problems though .

i have to assume all 3 sides of the slab ‘leak ‘ . 2 of which are on my property. The 3rd though is this lane - owned by no one but caused all kinds of problems during planning . I can’t easily ( or cheaply ) close the lane . But ! I presume I could in theory did a narrow trench against the wall down to the 100mm original slab ....

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You need this one fixed properly - you really don't want to live with the worry that it will get worse over time - and you would worry.

 

Were it me, I'd put the theory into practise on the other two sides - work out carefully what you want to do, do it and work out improvements as you do it. Folks on here will help with a design that ensures moisture is routed to the right area - I.e away and down enough not to penetrate the roof.

 

Then, when you are happy, choose a long weekend (Bank Holiday) and get in there with a Stihl, Jackhammer (wearing all the right high viz and with suitable safety precautions for pedestrians), dig down, put in your water proof layer, backfill, tamp and then (somehow) retar it.

 

Don't ask your council for permission (ask @AliG about that!) unless you decide to go 'by the book'.

 

Only my advice - once you go down the 'by the book' route, you'll get buried in red tape.

 

For now however, you could try some Bituminous paint at the wall/tarmac join and see what happens?

 

 

 

 

 

 

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1 hour ago, jamiehamy said:

You need this one fixed properly - you really don't want to live with the worry that it will get worse over time - and you would worry.

 

Were it me, I'd put the theory into practise on the other two sides - work out carefully what you want to do, do it and work out improvements as you do it. Folks on here will help with a design that ensures moisture is routed to the right area - I.e away and down enough not to penetrate the roof.

 

Then, when you are happy, choose a long weekend (Bank Holiday) and get in there with a Stihl, Jackhammer (wearing all the right high viz and with suitable safety precautions for pedestrians), dig down, put in your water proof layer, backfill, tamp and then (somehow) retar it.

 

Don't ask your council for permission (ask @AliG about that!) unless you decide to go 'by the book'.

 

Only my advice - once you go down the 'by the book' route, you'll get buried in red tape.

 

For now however, you could try some Bituminous paint at the wall/tarmac join and see what happens?

 

 

 

 

 

 

Oh I avoid the council don’t worry !

Neighbors will keep the council informed!! ?

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1 hour ago, pocster said:

Well I put red dye along the lane floor right next to my wall . 2 bucket falls . No sign of any red inside yet .

Yesterday I mixed some cement and filled any holes in the stone work .

So it’s a question now of waiting for rain . Took photos of the track marks today ( should of taken photos yesterday doh ! ) . Can compare tomorrow...

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  • 2 weeks later...

Potentially good news 

No rain for a week . Had some today .

Ceiling to left of opening looks the same . Up stand dry . This side faces the lane where I think I fixed the leak . Leak to right runs off front wall which I haven’t done anything to .

No champagne yet though .....

DB10135F-1801-4FEB-9CE6-C14D764431B6.jpeg

CFF6EC9B-A719-4775-9536-54D112D83324.jpeg

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3 hours ago, Mr Punter said:

Have you got all the rooflights in, flashings done, parapet walls complete and copings on?

No.

1 roof light to go (needs some repair work and a few dry days). Flashings done.

Coping (that are damaged have dpc covering them ).

I'm pretty confident this leak is fixed. So when we get a few more dry days will stick some dye along the front wall ( where the 2nd leak appears to track from ).

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