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Posted
  On 22/11/2018 at 14:04, PeterW said:

And then what on top..?? How are they detailing around the rooflights..??

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Usually a 45deg fillet at the base of the upstand then an inch thick or more up the sides with a wrap of expanding mesh to support if you feel the need (not essential but do so on a steel post). Needs to return into some form of rebate / tuck in the top. Sides sometimes straight not tapered. Nice lead cap to finish off.

 

...imho

 

Done a good few plinths like this over the years but always subbed out the asphalting. Top of lead cap usually 6" off of main roof.

 

As the Welshman says, never lost a patient yet!

 

Only got a Sharpie on me...

 

20181122_145839.thumb.jpg.72b416c80e1b683bace7914e24ab5e49.jpg

 

 

 

 

  • Thanks 1
Posted
  On 22/11/2018 at 15:07, Onoff said:

 

Usually a 45deg fillet at the base of the upstand then an inch thick or more up the sides with a wrap of expanding mesh to support if you feel the need (not essential but do so on a steel post). Needs to return into some form of rebate / tuck in the top. Sides sometimes straight not tapered. Nice lead cap to finish off.

 

...imho

 

Done a good few plinths like this over the years but always subbed out the asphalting. Top of lead cap usually 6" off of main roof.

 

As the Welshman says, never lost a patient yet!

 

Only got a Sharpie on me...

 

20181122_145839.thumb.jpg.72b416c80e1b683bace7914e24ab5e49.jpg

 

 

 

 

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Now you mention it - that’s almost exactly what he stated !!!! ?

Only difference would be the upstand ( still  have the fillet ) would be thinner otherwise walk on glass frames won’t fit . That was his suggestion.

Posted (edited)

Also , which I didn’t realise the hot bitumen isn’t bonded to the concrete ! ?

This was to allow for any movement and prevent cracking . As for the parking area he said cover in polythene and just cement pavers ontop . He did indicate UV was the biggest problem ; but as mine is entirely covered not an issue .

Edited by pocster
Posted
  On 22/11/2018 at 15:21, pocster said:

Also , which I didn’t realise the hot bitumen isn’t bonded to the concrete ! ?

This was to allow for any movement and prevent cracking . As for the parking area he said cover in polythene and just cement pavers ontop . He did indicate UV was the biggest problem ; but as mine is entirely covered not an issue .

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Sounds my kinda guy! How old?

 

(Not in THAT sense...unless he's minted! :) )

 

You can mitigate UV damage by painting on solar reflective paint direct to the asphalt. I'll take a pic of a can if I have one.

  • Thanks 1
Posted
  On 22/11/2018 at 15:36, Onoff said:

 

Sounds my kinda guy! How old?

 

(Not in THAT sense...unless he's minted! :) )

 

You can mitigate UV damage by painting on solar reflective paint direct to the asphalt. I'll take a pic of a can if I have one.

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Don’t know . Didn’t really chat him up ; mid 40’s I guess . I’ve got his phone number if you want to sweet talk him ? 

Posted
  On 22/11/2018 at 16:18, pocster said:

Don’t know . Didn’t really chat him up ; mid 40’s I guess . I’ve got his phone number if you want to sweet talk him ? 

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Did you get felt up?

 

Cromasol White btw sold in Asphaltic branches. Also "Solaflex" but that's twice the price.

  • Haha 1
Posted
  On 22/11/2018 at 16:48, Onoff said:

 

Did you get felt up?

 

Cromasol White btw sold in Asphaltic branches. Also "Solaflex" but that's twice the price.

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Think he said some mastic perma iko 

Apparently you can create a fall with it also !

Posted
  On 22/11/2018 at 17:10, pocster said:

Think he said some mastic perma iko 

Apparently you can create a fall with it also !

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Iko Permatec?

 

Massive company, do roof rain water outlets and all sorts.

Posted
  On 22/11/2018 at 17:16, Onoff said:

 

Iko Permatec?

 

Massive company, do roof rain water outlets and all sorts.

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Yeah I think that was it

Said it was the best ( presumably expensive also ! )

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Right !

SIG guy recommended roofer .

Roofer guy recommended guy to screed a fall .

The screed has been done ; I can’t walk on it but looks to be a proper job .

Problem is 1 up stand in particular is low - real low .

Maybe just 20mm above the screed .

Bearing in mind hot bitumen has to go ontop the screed so the upstand will be even lower .

I know upstands are meant to be a min of 150mm but that was always impossible in this situation .

I could timber across all the upstands to raise them before the bitumen .

But then I’ll be much higher than the house damp course and much higher than the street entrance way . ?

Trying to think how to make a ‘feature ‘ out of a raised corner ( stilted tiles sitting around glazing ) . Or just not worry - see what happens .

The screed does look spot on fall wise so perhaps it’s less of an issue than I imagine .

Just when it’s meant to be 150mm and I will struggle to get 15mm I worry .

Edited by pocster
Posted (edited)

Hey @Onoff !

 

Suppose I fitted this 1 walk on glass frame before the bitumen .

Could he bitumen too it ? Essentially embed it in the bitumen ? . Then he could fillet away from it on each side .

Hope that makes sense !?

Edited by pocster
Posted

Actually that might be a dumb idea and cause other issues .

i did consider raising all the up stands but then the gates would also need a rising hinge or something to clear the driveway !! ?

Posted

I'm lost...aren't you having block paving atop the asphalt? With the top of the glass level with top of the blocks?

 

Need a section view to remind myself.

Posted
  On 16/12/2018 at 12:51, Onoff said:

I'm lost...aren't you having block paving atop the asphalt? With the top of the glass level with top of the blocks?

 

Need a section view to remind myself.

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Yes . But only on the centre section where you park . Stilted tiles everywhere else I.e around walk on glass 

Posted

Here we are

 

You can see the lowest upstand with and without the frame . Too be fair his screeding is like perfect !!

 

 

0C09502F-3A7C-42CB-AAD8-B1AFC8CF1283.jpeg

92338557-24D6-4B5B-8CB6-44D6A7D7A1C5.jpeg

Posted
  On 17/12/2018 at 09:52, pocster said:

Here we are

 

You can see the lowest upstand with and without the frame . Too be fair his screeding is like perfect !!

 

 

0C09502F-3A7C-42CB-AAD8-B1AFC8CF1283.jpeg

92338557-24D6-4B5B-8CB6-44D6A7D7A1C5.jpeg

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Can't help feeling that should have  "tuck" on all 4 sides of the upstand. As if you'd put say a 20x20 batten around the shuttering before you cast it. Something for the asphalt to key into. Like my little hand sketch a while back. Then you bed the skylight on whatever goop you're using.

Posted (edited)
  On 17/12/2018 at 09:57, Onoff said:

 

Can't help feeling that should have  "tuck" on all 4 sides of the upstand. As if you'd put say a 20x20 batten around the shuttering before you cast it. Something for the asphalt to key into. Like my little hand sketch a while back. Then you bed the skylight on whatever goop you're using.

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Roofer looked at all this before said it wasn’t an issue .

He also suggested the screed to falls .

i’ll try to get him back out to take a look ...

Edited by pocster
Posted

Should you run a course of brickwork around for the bitumen to dress up, or does this upstand get done in timber? Make sure the detail is OKed by SIG.  I used adjustable pedestals from Castle Composites but the minimum height is 30mm.  They also do fixed height ones down to 10mm.

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