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Tiling...many questions


Onoff

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11 minutes ago, JSHarris said:

Looking at it again, it looks like there is an optical illusion in the earlier photo, and that the mitre is really exactly one tile wide.

 

Erm...the mitre IS exactly one tile wide.

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1 minute ago, Nickfromwales said:

If you don't squint at this pic it looks like the tile is short each side. 

 

2018-08-16_09-33-02

 

It is, upon further inspection, one tile wide. I retract my earlier "dog shit" emoji based response. ??

 

Whatever...mojo lost again.

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Just now, Nickfromwales said:

Get back on it.

Your lucky, in the one I did I volunteered to put chrome pinstripes up each vertical. Not my best idea. 

 

LED strips I might have been impressed... :)

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Doing that in the current customers airing cupboard, down each side, switch set into the frame, so the lights come on automatically. 

Toying with putting one of those Kinetic switches onto the offside of the roll top freestanding bath ( with some 3m double sided tape, up high where it cant be seen ) to switch between some under vanity lighting so they can chill in the bath. The PVC windowsill has a 15mm overhang and I'm thinking to put some led strip under there so there's light from behind where they're sat in the bath, plus the under vanity  LEDs at the front of the bath, but you won't be able to see where the lights coming from. Cool. 

Need to work out how to get the switch to flip-flop between spots in the ceiling and low level lights. Any idea on a solid state relay that will changeover ? 

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1 hour ago, Onoff said:

Liking the idea of an LED lit trim either side of the mitre. Need to be able to replace the strip and make watertight against the tiles either side.

 

Any ideas?

 

Not good in the shower wet area :/. Tiles need to be set in, stay water tight and stay there. Making gaps for LED strips in the tiles is not a great idea. You've got the spots in the pockets so don't go OTT ;)

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56 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said:

Doing that in the current customers airing cupboard, down each side, switch set into the frame, so the lights come on automatically. 

Toying with putting one of those Kinetic switches onto the offside of the roll top freestanding bath ( with some 3m double sided tape, up high where it cant be seen ) to switch between some under vanity lighting so they can chill in the bath. The PVC windowsill has a 15mm overhang and I'm thinking to put some led strip under there so there's light from behind where they're sat in the bath, plus the under vanity  LEDs at the front of the bath, but you won't be able to see where the lights coming from. Cool. 

Need to work out how to get the switch to flip-flop between spots in the ceiling and low level lights. Any idea on a solid state relay that will changeover ? 

 

At it's simplest the QU WP2 is a 2-gang IP67 switch so one gang for the LED strip and the other for the vanity lights maybe?

 

Same 1-gang picture for the 2-gang for some reason!

 

https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/tcl/search?query=quinetic+ip67&Submit=Search

 

(I reckon you could plastic prime and dust with a paint to suit the decor. Wish though they did an IP67 dimmer switch range!)

 

The QU R323 is a 2-channel 6A receiver - cheaper than two separate receivers.

 

https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/QUR323.html

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1 hour ago, Onoff said:

 

At it's simplest the QU WP2 is a 2-gang IP67 switch so one gang for the LED strip and the other for the vanity lights maybe?

 

Same 1-gang picture for the 2-gang for some reason!

 

https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/tcl/search?query=quinetic+ip67&Submit=Search

 

(I reckon you could plastic prime and dust with a paint to suit the decor. Wish though they did an IP67 dimmer switch range!)

 

The QU R323 is a 2-channel 6A receiver - cheaper than two separate receivers.

 

https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/QUR323.html

I want for them to switch the spots on at the wall switch as they walk in / out, and if in the bath just to be able to flick a single switch over to change from spots to low-level lights. That will be smart. When done in the bath they simply switch back to the spots as they exit the bath. 

Im thinking a SS relay which changes from L1 to L2 upon being energised with L2 being the 230v feed to the tranny? Any 2-way SS relays about? Got to be quiet and reliable.

Cheers fore the links, I'll get some of those for my girls room. TLC to the rescue again, which is great as they're about 3 mins from my front door :)  

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Grrr. 

Now I'm thinking that would be nice to have as a 'night-time' option so the bathroom doesn't have to be floodlit to go for a 'midnight pee'. ?

Think I'll go for 2 of the 2G switches and 1 of the 16a receivers. Can help but think the 16a models will have better longevity even with a low load. Same price so hopefully they're not noisy. Prob mount the receiver in an IP box in the bathroom attic.

I'll pick up some cable tomorrow for the low-level lights. Nice treat for the customers as they've been very patient with all the extras that have needed doing, ( old house / wonky walls and floors etc ). Makes a nice change from the usual ungrateful pricks I seem to find in abundance. :/

  

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1 hour ago, Nickfromwales said:

Grrr. 

Now I'm thinking that would be nice to have as a 'night-time' option so the bathroom doesn't have to be floodlit to go for a 'midnight pee'. ?

Think I'll go for 2 of the 2G switches and 1 of the 16a receivers. Can help but think the 16a models will have better longevity even with a low load. Same price so hopefully they're not noisy. Prob mount the receiver in an IP box in the bathroom attic.

I'll pick up some cable tomorrow for the low-level lights. Nice treat for the customers as they've been very patient with all the extras that have needed doing, ( old house / wonky walls and floors etc ). Makes a nice change from the usual ungrateful pricks I seem to find in abundance. :/

  

 

You've lost me...you need 2 receivers or a dual receiver to switch two separate loads...

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18 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said:

Ah yes, just spotted they font do a dual 16a. Dual 6a it is then.

Have you already bought these / trial run them? 

 

Yep, as has @JSHarris.

 

Mine have been trialled and put back in the box (they work a treat). Jeremy's were to replace some other make and are all up and running as far as I know...

 

 

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50 minutes ago, Onoff said:

 

Yep, as has @JSHarris.

 

Mine have been trialled and put back in the box (they work a treat). Jeremy's were to replace some other make and are all up and running as far as I know...

 

 

 

 

Yes, ours have been up and running for a while now and work perfectly, which is more than can be said for the Byron/Homeeasy switches they replaced.

 

FWIW I went for the 16A receivers, as the loads being switched were LED switched mode power supplies, and they have a fairly hefty inrush current.  Although each power supply uses well under an Amp, I have already experienced a relay failure in a PIR switch, and when I took that PIR switch apart to find the cause noted that the relay was rated at around 5 or 6A.  I'm just taking a punt that a 16A relay will be better up to switching the LED supplies than the PIR switch in another room was, although it is possible that I just had a faulty PIR switch relay, as it was a latching one, so could have just got mechanically stuck in the "on" position".

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12 hours ago, Onoff said:

Liking the idea of an LED lit trim either side of the mitre. Need to be able to replace the strip and make watertight against the tiles either side.

 

Any ideas?

 

Led’s Behind walk on glass ?

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13 hours ago, Onoff said:

Liking the idea of an LED lit trim either side of the mitre. Need to be able to replace the strip and make watertight against the tiles either side.

 

Any ideas?

 

 

You can set an aluminium profile into the wall and seal it with CT1 - doesn’t need to be watertight on the outside as you can get IP67 LED strip and your join would be in the attic anyway ...

 

however.......

 

I can’t see swmbo being impressed at having floodlighting of herself in profile in the shower so this is a seriously bad idea ..!!!

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2 minutes ago, PeterW said:

 

You can set an aluminium profile into the wall and seal it with CT1 - doesn’t need to be watertight on the outside as you can get IP67 LED strip and your join would be in the attic anyway ...

 

however.......

 

I can’t see swmbo being impressed at having floodlighting of herself in profile in the shower so this is a seriously bad idea ..!!!

 

Aluminium would corrode far too quick I reckon and SWMBO would quickly rub off any anodising! Might stand a chance with 316 st/st.

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