Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Looking to remove the old asphalt roof tiles from our log cabin and create a warm roof off the existing 18x94mm tongue & groove sarking. Roof pitch is 17 deg. Initially I’d fix a 2x4 timber ontop of the sarking all around the edge to create an upstand lip, I’d screw both materials but also use galv angle brackets along its length. The 2x4 is shown in green on my pic attached.

 

Starting from the outside

 

1) Box profile metal roof sheets

2) Roof sheet batten (ORANGE IN PIC)

3) Counterbatten fixed through 90mm PIR into 18mm sarking (BLUE IN PIC)

4) Breather membrane

5) 90mm PIR (RED IN PIC)

6) VCL

7) Existing 18x94mm tongue & groove sarking

 

If I’ve missed anything blindingly obvious let me know but my main concern is fixing the counter batten/PIR to the 18mm sarking. What would be the best fixing for this and would it be enough? The way this log building is constructed, The roof is supported by 2x8 purlins rather than rafters.

 

purlins.jpeg

Lugarde_B80 - Copy.jpg

Posted

It would give a much better fixing if you could fix the counter battens through to the purlins.  Unless you go through the t & g boards I don't think it will be strong enough.

Posted

Or rather than ply sheet, Add some 4x2 at say 500/600mm centers with the timbers laid so their widest face 4" was up against the sarking giving me 18mm t&g + 45mm timber to go at. 

purlins+trimmers.JPG

Posted

Home office and hobby room with all year round use. 

 

I’m aware it would have a deep profile. In terms of overall aesthetic, The walls are being insulated & clad from outside to protect and preserve the building. These interlocking cabins can be problematic with rain and this one’s certainly suffered. 

 

The building already needs a new roof with metal being my first choice. Even without insulation I’d be fixing the roof battens regardless. 

 

If I can resolve the fixing method it’s easier insulating continuously  over the top than internally though I haven’t completely ruled it out. 

 

Inside there are effectively three rooms but only one is fully enclosed. Basically it’s open plan but with Partial internal walls to support the purlins. Insulating inside would be very bitty rather than continuous. Ventilation would possibly need to be mechanical and I’d need to cladd internally to cover it all. 

Posted

Home office and hobby room with all year round use. 

 

I’m aware it would have a deep profile. In terms of overall aesthetic, The walls are being insulated & clad from outside to protect and preserve the building. These interlocking cabins can be problematic with rain and this one’s certainly suffered. 

 

The building already needs a new roof with metal being my first choice. Even without insulation I’d be fixing the roof battens regardless. 

 

If I can resolve the fixing method it’s easier insulating continuously  over the top than internally though I haven’t completely ruled it out. 

 

Inside there are effectively three rooms but only one is fully enclosed. Basically it’s open plan but with Partial internal walls to support the purlins. Insulating inside would be very bitty rather than continuous. Ventilation would possibly need to be mechanical and I’d need to cladd internally to cover it all. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...