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Onoff

Tiling / Door Frame

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With a concrete floor, levelled with screed rails  (so v.good) and 7mm thick ceramic floor tiles, how thick should I allow for floor adhesive?

 

I want to get the door frame in.

 

Cheers

Edited by Onoff

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When you say very good what do you mean? I think you have to add the total out of flat distance across the whole sub floor to the cement thickness recommended by the tile manufacturers to get the max needed and hopefully it won'y be downhill from, or up hill to there as water has a habit of enjoining even the slightest slope.

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I simply can't find any unlevel bit of floor when I lay either the 6' or 4' level at any angle. The level just doesn't rock. The screeding rails I did (Unistrut on the walls), I'd do again in a heartbeat but then none of my rooms are that big.

 

SAM_3399

 

The bit in the doorway, where the rails didn't extend to I've left a tad low.

 

Really happy it's "level".

 

 

 

 

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9 hours ago, Onoff said:

With a concrete floor, levelled with screed rails  (so v.good) and 7mm thick ceramic floor tiles, how thick should I allow for floor adhesive?

 

I want to get the door frame in.

 

Cheers

8 mil

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9 minutes ago, nod said:

8 mil

 

Cheers. What notch size trowel should I use for that? Tiles are 330x330.

 

 

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Standard 10mm floor trowel - double sided ones have 10 and 6 usually. 

 

Screwfix do Rubi ones on next day delivery for cheaper than the Forge Steel cr&p...

 

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14 minutes ago, Onoff said:

 

Cheers. What notch size trowel should I use for that? Tiles are 330x330.

 

 

I nearly always use 10 mil on floors You can get away with a bit less on Backer board 

It’s not just the floor Often the tiles you are using can be slightly bowed Exspecially The 1200 long plank tiles that are so popular now

Also its much easier and less messy to give the odd tile a tap than lifting and packing up with more adhesive

 

Also it’s worth using the voter clips

on the larger floor tiles 

 

Hope this helps

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With floor tiling you need to lay "bed and butter'. You bed the floor with ( in your OCD flat floors case :) ) an 8mm notched bed of adhesive, and then you butter the back of the tile so it's uniformly covered in adhesive, all the way to the edges and, most importantly, the corners. That's what's referred to as 'solid bed' or 'fully bed'. NEVER put a dry tile down into the bed. 

The consistency of the adhesive is critical, too thin and the tile will not 'stand' on the adhesive, too thick and it'll be difficult to set the tile down to the required finished position. Too much adhesive and the grout lines will fill, bit just sliding over and cleaning out with a finger, then a sponge sorts that with ease, and tbh I usually do that to make sure the edges and corners are fully packed out. Messy, but better imo, and you just need to keep a bucket of clean water and a sponge to hand throughout to keep your hands and the tiles clean as you work.

Stand the spacers up, about 50mm in from the corners so you can rub your finger across all 4 corner points to check that you don't have any kickers. Also do that with the spacers so you can simply pull them out with a pliers later. I never put the spacers in the corner and grout over them as that leaves part grouted voids in every corner which is crap imo. 

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On 1/28/2018 at 08:50, nod said:

8 mil

 

So if I mark a line 15mm up from the concrete floor, (8mm for the adhesive + 7mm for the tile) that will be the bottom of my door frame?

 

Cheers

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I'd fit the door frame after tiling the floor. Wall tiles after floor always. 

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1 hour ago, Nickfromwales said:

I'd fit the door frame after tiling the floor. Wall tiles after floor always. 

 

Trouble is I haven't screeded the wet room corner yet and that will take an age to dry. To do the floor tiles I need the wet room corner screeded. If I do that I won't be able to walk on it for ???

 

Before I do that I want to to more boxing in to mitre that corner & get the shower valve in. 

 

I was thinking to tile the walls starting 1 up from the floor the come back later and infill with the bottom row of cut tiles.

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Use Ardex A35 or 38. Takes ceramic tiles in 4 hours ;)

 

Edit to add : you use the Ardex instead of regular cement. 

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