saveasteading Posted 6 hours ago Posted 6 hours ago I thought this would be simple until I removed the failed one. This looks so complex and bulky, esp considering there are 10 like this. 10 years old or so, fitted by electrician so I'm not familiar with it. I guess I just buy another, see how it is connected and either connect via the junction box or omit it. Any advice? SF looked like the easy option for a replacement but the website is poor at narrowing the choice. Bright white bezel, yellow light, wide angle. B and Q would let me read the boxes, even see the things.. but it's not handy.
Mr Punter Posted 5 hours ago Posted 5 hours ago Is this a lamp or the whole fitting? Picture may help.
ProDave Posted 5 hours ago Posted 5 hours ago Yes picture may help. NEVER fit downlighters where you cannot change the lamp, and stick with 240V lamps e.g. GU10. If you ignore that advice and fit downlighters with a fixed lamp, buy PLENTY of spares, so when they go wrong in 5 years time and they are no longer available, you at least have some spares to keep you going. 2
saveasteading Posted 5 hours ago Author Posted 5 hours ago Oops, forgot the picture. I've fitted some and changed the bulbs fairly regularly but this was by an electrician we trusted and we let him get on with it. That's why I'm surprised how huge it all is.
Nickfromwales Posted 5 hours ago Posted 5 hours ago There’s no issue of trust here?! He just fitted the spots he thought were correct at the time I guess? Just open the circular junction box and remove the offending article. 7 minutes ago, saveasteading said: and changed the bulbs fairly regularly Are these units in the pic fixed modules or can you replace the lamp?
saveasteading Posted 4 hours ago Author Posted 4 hours ago (edited) No trust problem. This was a proper firm i used a lot on big contracts. We remodelled a big area of this house and they went right back to the meter box. No problems just a light flickering and failing. The same electrician: I once did the gutty work of feeding cables and cutting holes, and had him come to check and connect it. He removed all my wagos and fitted old fashioned boxes as above. So perhaps was cautious with new tech. The lights on SF and amazon seem to be integrated, i.e. can't change the bulb. Suggestions would be very welcome and there's no rush. But there are also 3 gone an ensuite ( poss a different type) so I've a few to do. Edited 4 hours ago by saveasteading
ProDave Posted 4 hours ago Posted 4 hours ago He probably fitted his own JB's as some of the junction boxes built into light fittings are dire and impossible to connect 2 cables to (loop in and out to next fitting) 1
Super_Paulie Posted 4 hours ago Posted 4 hours ago 16 minutes ago, ProDave said: He probably fitted his own JB's as some of the junction boxes built into light fittings are dire and impossible to connect 2 cables to (loop in and out to next fitting) did the very same. Cut them off and replaced with the in-line Wago light boxes for each spot. 1
saveasteading Posted 3 hours ago Author Posted 3 hours ago I'd really like a make and model if anybody has one to hand. Aurora do indeed look good but there are so many options, some with sub- boxes, some integrated Base unit + bezel + lamp also looks sensible.
billt Posted 2 hours ago Posted 2 hours ago (edited) 2 hours ago, Nickfromwales said: Aurora are very good imho. Yes, I've got 8 Aurora E8 fire rated dimmable LED down lighters in the hall. They're on for several hours a day and been installed for 5 years with no issue. https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/AUDE8CW.html At one time I would have agreed with Prodave about replaceable lamps, however decent fittings are very reliable these days and even if you have a failure the holes are generally a standard size and replacements are not that expensive. Edited 2 hours ago by billt 2
saveasteading Posted 1 hour ago Author Posted 1 hour ago I've ordered that i the warm version, Very impressed with the TLC website, especially at the end when it lets you move the location pin on Google maps, away from the postcode node to the actual location. Evri need that. I will see what they look like but am thinking I might as well use a cable from the light to the terminal block for ease of fixing.
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