deasonuk Posted December 19, 2025 Posted December 19, 2025 Hi, I was posting in the thread about extending stud. Maybe more appropriate in this section is whether the options are actually suitable! Does this work for concealed valve to a minimum line fitting?
Nickfromwales Posted December 19, 2025 Posted December 19, 2025 1 hour ago, deasonuk said: Hi, I was posting in the thread about extending stud. Maybe more appropriate in this section is whether the options are actually suitable! Does this work for concealed valve to a minimum line fitting? Yup, just you’ll be routing out the back of the plasterboard to get pipe and fittings covered, particularly problematic if you’re using push fit plumbing instead of soldering copper pipes. If you can set it back another 10-15mm that would make plumbing much easier, and allow you to use push fit.
deasonuk Posted December 19, 2025 Author Posted December 19, 2025 (edited) 7 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said: Yup, just you’ll be routing out the back of the plasterboard to get pipe and fittings covered, particularly problematic if you’re using push fit plumbing instead of soldering copper pipes. If you can set it back another 10-15mm that would make plumbing much easier, and allow you to use push fit. Nick when can you start on my job as I'll probably be finished by June at this rate lol. I see what you mean about piping, I'll be overlapping the pipe run and im going to be using Pushfit so throws thickness of ply out. Looking this morning I'm just about to buy this plate https://www.plumbarena.co.uk/product/abacus-easi-plan-universal-shower-valve-fitting-plate-epfp-05-3005/?gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=21120514031&gbraid=0AAAAADtJBDoeHhMCLjeUK4FC2lrF_Qksj&gclid=Cj0KCQiA6Y7KBhCkARIsAOxhqtP1ohFy0mOf-5zB5qx8SJeuu7FTAlUho74Upi9bA6eaf1QVWLH5lnMaAjeREALw_wcB That means I won't be on Plyboard for the Pattress but im assuming very thin frame here. I can't find any dimensions on depth of this thing. Maybe better as an option ? Edited December 19, 2025 by deasonuk
Nickfromwales Posted December 19, 2025 Posted December 19, 2025 21 minutes ago, deasonuk said: Nick when can you start on my job as I'll probably be finished by June at this rate lol. I see what you mean about piping, I'll be overlapping the pipe run and im going to be using Pushfit so throws thickness of ply out. Looking this morning I'm just about to buy this plate https://www.plumbarena.co.uk/product/abacus-easi-plan-universal-shower-valve-fitting-plate-epfp-05-3005/?gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=21120514031&gbraid=0AAAAADtJBDoeHhMCLjeUK4FC2lrF_Qksj&gclid=Cj0KCQiA6Y7KBhCkARIsAOxhqtP1ohFy0mOf-5zB5qx8SJeuu7FTAlUho74Upi9bA6eaf1QVWLH5lnMaAjeREALw_wcB That means I won't be on Plyboard for the Pattress but im assuming very thin frame here. I can't find any dimensions on depth of this thing. Maybe better as an option ? Looks like that would just get you where you can use push fit. Remember that you need to buy a decent quality valve to bury in the wall as spares may be an issue later down the line. If a client is undecided I just use these https://ebay.us/m/slX6ED But check prices of the face plate that you then need to go with it. For eg Link eBay / Gumtree / farcebook marketplace are your friends here. Link
deasonuk Posted December 19, 2025 Author Posted December 19, 2025 12 hours ago, Nickfromwales said: Looks like that would just get you where you can use push fit. Remember that you need to buy a decent quality valve to bury in the wall as spares may be an issue later down the line. If a client is undecided I just use these https://ebay.us/m/slX6ED But check prices of the face plate that you then need to go with it. For eg Link eBay / Gumtree / farcebook marketplace are your friends here. Link This is a cross water valve, parts are likely to be available. I did stay in a hotel and did like the grohe value. This valve needs 80MM though so knackers me even more!
Nickfromwales Posted December 19, 2025 Posted December 19, 2025 1 minute ago, deasonuk said: This is a cross water valve, parts are likely to be available. I did stay in a hotel and did like the grohe value. This valve needs 80MM though so knackers me even more! Ok 👍. I’d look at a spares kit ordered in now, o-rings / seals mostly, and possibly a spare thermostatic cartridge depending on £££. Should be 20yrs trouble-free motoring then regardless of what happens with the company / support downstream.
deasonuk Posted December 19, 2025 Author Posted December 19, 2025 15 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said: Ok 👍. I’d look at a spares kit ordered in now, o-rings / seals mostly, and possibly a spare thermostatic cartridge depending on £££. Should be 20yrs trouble-free motoring then regardless of what happens with the company / support downstream. Yes mate, this stuff has crossed my mind. Maybe lets even get the thing bloody ordered first lol 1
Nickfromwales Posted December 19, 2025 Posted December 19, 2025 2 minutes ago, deasonuk said: Yes mate, this stuff has crossed my mind. Maybe lets even get the thing bloody ordered first lol Crack on.
deasonuk Posted Tuesday at 18:28 Author Posted Tuesday at 18:28 Update on this post @Nickfromwales, I think I am going to put the valve into the thermalite wall. 1. It means my arm wont get wet 2. Wont be worrying about the 50mm stud conundrum and that being tight as a ducks butt, I've had the Abacus Mounting plate come in and that is going to take 10/15 mm. I've decided to got a pipe bender to run the 15mm down and up from the original water feeds in the loft. Pic has where I plan to run up pipe work. I've got a 3 way crossbox backing valve and two way front plate, One thing im thinking about is running the 3rd outlet under the bath and blanking it off, it provides future owners with the option to change the front valve plate to three way and use the bath filler. Is that just me being OTT? I know you mentioned you've used a Multi before, was that with a carbide tipped blade?
Onoff Posted Tuesday at 19:41 Posted Tuesday at 19:41 1 hour ago, deasonuk said: I know you mentioned you've used a Multi before, was that with a carbide tipped blade? I've used a multi tool to cut Celcon before. Whatever blade, knife through butter etc. Wall chaser's another option. 1
Nickfromwales Posted Tuesday at 20:48 Posted Tuesday at 20:48 1 hour ago, Onoff said: I've used a multi tool to cut Celcon before. Whatever blade, knife through butter etc. Wall chaser's another option. What he said.
Nickfromwales Posted Tuesday at 20:50 Posted Tuesday at 20:50 2 hours ago, deasonuk said: Update on this post @Nickfromwales, I think I am going to put the valve into the thermalite wall. 1. It means my arm wont get wet 2. Wont be worrying about the 50mm stud conundrum and that being tight as a ducks butt, I've had the Abacus Mounting plate come in and that is going to take 10/15 mm. I've decided to got a pipe bender to run the 15mm down and up from the original water feeds in the loft. Pic has where I plan to run up pipe work. I've got a 3 way crossbox backing valve and two way front plate, One thing im thinking about is running the 3rd outlet under the bath and blanking it off, it provides future owners with the option to change the front valve plate to three way and use the bath filler. Is that just me being OTT? I know you mentioned you've used a Multi before, was that with a carbide tipped blade? Just cover all the pipes with a couple of turns of either duct tape or pvc electrical tape to stave off corrosion. You can then back fill the chases with dot & dab board adhesive etc or just foam them in, but best to cover the bare copper imho.
Onoff Posted Tuesday at 21:09 Posted Tuesday at 21:09 18 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said: Just cover all the pipes with a couple of turns of either duct tape or pvc electrical tape to stave off corrosion. You can then back fill the chases with dot & dab board adhesive etc or just foam them in, but best to cover the bare copper imho. Not worth using plastic?
Nickfromwales Posted Tuesday at 21:55 Posted Tuesday at 21:55 43 minutes ago, Onoff said: Not worth using plastic? Sorry. My DNA is made primarily out of copper and brass. Yes, Hepworth (NOT JG Speedfit!!!!) would be equally as handsome as I was when in my 20’s. Im still quite buff at 51 btw. 🤩
Onoff Posted Tuesday at 21:59 Posted Tuesday at 21:59 3 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said: Sorry. My DNA is made primarily out of copper and brass. Yes, Hepworth (NOT JG Speedfit!!!!) would be equally as handsome as I was when in my 20’s. Im still quite buff at 51 btw. 🤩 Just vaguely recall someone "copying" my concealed mixer, riser, rainfall setup but in plastic. Yes, I did copper and brass.
Nickfromwales Posted Tuesday at 22:09 Posted Tuesday at 22:09 9 minutes ago, Onoff said: Just vaguely recall someone "copying" my concealed mixer, riser, rainfall setup but in plastic. Yes, I did copper and brass. I think that came to you in a dream. 🛌
Onoff Posted Tuesday at 23:18 Posted Tuesday at 23:18 1 hour ago, Nickfromwales said: I think that came to you in a dream. 🛌 Didn't dream this: 2
deasonuk Posted Wednesday at 07:29 Author Posted Wednesday at 07:29 Thanks chaps, I thought about plastic but as bending copper it's giving me old school peace of mind. 1
deasonuk Posted 15 hours ago Author Posted 15 hours ago All kicking off today when I had an hour....so frigging easy and clean with the multi tool. Even used it to shave down the back of the channels. Need to get on with the rest of it now! 2
Onoff Posted 15 hours ago Posted 15 hours ago Don't know your planned setup but I positioned my valve to one side of the riser / head. Means you can turn the shower on without getting wet. 1
Onoff Posted 2 hours ago Posted 2 hours ago Mixer to one side I'd say is definitely a good idea especially with a rainfall head.
Tetrarch Posted 1 hour ago Posted 1 hour ago I had a concealed Aqualisa valve explode in a wall - never again Surface valves are OK - Grohe or Hansgrohe for me Digital showers are (IMO) the best way to go. Permanent access to the rainfall head and a single pipe in the wall must be the way to go. Then you can put your controls wherever you like I've got two - a Vado and a Mira I prefer the shower head of the Mira and the wireless control but I prefer the aesthetics of the wired control buttons of the Vado. I would never recommend anything else Regards Tet
Nickfromwales Posted 1 hour ago Posted 1 hour ago 4 minutes ago, Tetrarch said: I had a concealed Aqualisa valve explode in a wall - never again Surface valves are OK - Grohe or Hansgrohe for me Digital showers are (IMO) the best way to go. Permanent access to the rainfall head and a single pipe in the wall must be the way to go. Then you can put your controls wherever you like I've got two - a Vado and a Mira I prefer the shower head of the Mira and the wireless control but I prefer the aesthetics of the wired control buttons of the Vado. I would never recommend anything else Regards Tet Too isolated an event to change the world methinks I’ve fitted a gazillion concealed showers, and the worst thing that’s happened has been the thermostatic cartridges need changing, which you do with the valve in situ from the front. I am a big fan of Grohe iBox’s, and the spares and support will be around for decades. I do like the simplistic approach of the digital showers, but having control boxes mounted remotely with electronics and mechanical gubbings, which do go kaput and need servicing / maintaining, is sometimes not practicable. Digital a good solution if you need pumped off gravity hot and cold water.
ProDave Posted 1 hour ago Posted 1 hour ago 23 minutes ago, Onoff said: Mixer to one side I'd say is definitely a good idea especially with a rainfall head. Definitely. You want the mixer somewhere you can reach in and turn it on without getting your arm wet when you do so, so you avoid the inevitable cold water deluge before the hot water arrives. Of course it also needs to be accessible when you are in the shower.
Tetrarch Posted 1 hour ago Posted 1 hour ago 1 minute ago, Nickfromwales said: Too isolated an event to change the world methinks I’ve fitted a gazillion concealed showers, and the worst thing that’s happened has been the thermostatic cartridges need changing, which you do with the valve in situ from the front. I am a big fan of Grohe iBox’s, and the spares and support will be around for decades. I do like the simplistic approach of the digital showers, but having control boxes mounted remotely with electronics and mechanical gubbings, which do go kaput and need servicing / maintaining, is sometimes not practicable. Digital a good solution if you need pumped off gravity hot and cold water. Both my digital showers were an early design choice (thanks to my builder's recommendation). It seemed to be a good idea to co-locate all the plumbing sources. They are both located in the cupboard where the megaflo, the CH expansion tank, CH pump and control centre are located. All the wet stuff (except from UFH) is here Regards Tet 1
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