Loose wire - bullet dodged.

[Russdl]

During my mid year service of the house it turns out that the second Willis Heater we hardly ever use doesn’t work anyway. After a bit of investigation it became pretty clear why that was.
 

The neutral from the Willis Heaters fused spur into the contactor was trying to catch fire, it had actually melted and stuck to the outer casing of the junction box. 

The neutral was in the right hand No.3 terminal - kinda. 
 

I found that pretty disturbing, especially as there was no indication of when this had happened (nothing tripped off, no smoke alarm) or how long ago it happened. 
 

On closer inspection I think it’s clear what has happened, the terminal screw seems to be cross threaded so I guess it felt like it was done up tight but clearly it wasn’t. 
 

 

Stuff clearly needs replacing, like the contactor and the Wago. 
 

The obviously burnt twin and earth needs replacing, can I just cut out the burnt sections and splice in new cable with these? 

 

 

Or should I replace the whole length to the fused spur?

 

The T&E appearing above the contactor is directly from the distribution board and looks slightly heat damaged, I guess that all needs replacing as well?

As a side note, I’m going to be sourcing another smoke detector for this area. There is a smoke detector in the room and also an MVHR extract. The problem is with the relative positions the MVHR extract will effectively prevent any air from the area of the distribution board passing over the smoke detector. 

Edited Friday at 10:03 by Russdl
Changed the first photo

[Kelvin]

If you can replace the whole length why wouldn’t you do that? 

[Russdl]

Good point, I’ve not had a good look at what that would entail, replacing the T&E from the contactor to the fused spur, but I suspect I could do that with relative ease. 

[ProDave]

I would not hesitate having a junction inside the contactor box.

 

Always give new terminations a tug to see if they are really tight.  I have found MK sockets especially bad at having poor binding screws that feel tight before the screw even touches the wire, yet plenty of people still think they are the best.

[Russdl]

2 hours ago, ProDave said:

 

I would not hesitate having a junction inside the contactor box

 

Just so I’m clear on that advice you say the Wago would be fine?

 

2 hours ago, ProDave said:

Always give new terminations a tug to see if they are really tight

I do. But I guess the electrician that did the original install didn’t.
 

However tugging upwards against the distribution board would have been difficult I guess. 

[BotusBuild]

If you are replacing the damaged contactor (bad screw) - you're doing that! - then replace the whole T&E at the same time.

 

IMHO

[Russdl]

That’s what I’m here for, “HO’s”.  
 

I’m no electrician so I’m seeking advice. 
 

I’m definitely going to replace the contactor, I’ve no idea how damaged that is internally but it has most definitely got very hot and, on balance, it would seem that the whole length of T&E should be replaced as well, so I’ll do that. 

[BotusBuild]

3 hours ago, Russdl said:

I’m no electrician

Don't be too afraid.

Photograph what you are going to replace, particularly connections.

Turn everything off, then check nothing is live.

Replace the cable.

Replace the connector.

Make the connections (refer ro earlier photos)

Tighten and tug test.

 

Apply volts.

 

You got this

[Russdl]

Thanks 🤣.
 

Im not afraid, I can’t do any worse than the professional that went before me! I just want to ensure that any rectification/replacement I do is done according to best practice.