Securing units with UFH

[Barnboy]

I've just laid out our units after having them in storage for nearly 4 yrs and have realised that as part of our breakfast bar / peninsula, which is 2.8mtrs long we have a 1.2mtr set of draws at the end of it which will be filled with crockery.

My problem is how's best to secure this from tipping without screwing into the floor which is filled with ufh pipes ?

There will be a support panel running across the back of the units and an end panel, I'm also thinking of screwing 2 battens underneath the full run of units to tie them all together securely and some good dollops of ct1 under the feet, what more can I do or will this be enough ? 

[JohnMo]

Kitchen units aren't screwed to the floor normally. An island unit will normally have a heavy worktop on it holding everything down.

10 minutes ago, Barnboy said:

I'm also thinking of screwing 2 battens underneath the full run of units to tie them all together securely and some good dollops of ct1 under the feet, what more can I do or will this be enough ?

The kitchen units should be all screwed together anyway, so batten add zero. CT1 bit of a waste of time. When the worktop is in place.

[markc]

Fix the drawer carcass to underside of the top. 

[Barnboy]

There's going to be a quartz worktop, so plenty of weight on top, I'm only thinking about the problem as the instructions show to screw down through the feet on the draw units, but I suppose the manufacturers have got to cover themselves incase you put a lightweight worktop on.

[Russell griffiths]

I have a couple of free standing units, I got them all lined up and used a PU adhesive around each leg, nice ring around each foot. 

[Nickfromwales]

10 hours ago, Barnboy said:

There will be a support panel running across the back of the units and an end panel

I usually CT1 or Sikaflex EBT bond a batten to the tiled floor, or sub floor minus finished flooring if LVT / floating wood, and then bond the decor panels to the batten with silicone.

 

Silicone will hold plenty good enough, and can be freed up with a chisel / small pry bar if it needs to be disassembled ever. 

[Temp]

It's surprising how strong some sealers and adhesives can be. Many shower glass panels are installed into aluminium channels just stuck to the tray, no fixings.

[Nickfromwales]

7 hours ago, Temp said:

It's surprising how strong some sealers and adhesives can be. Many shower glass panels are installed into aluminium channels just stuck to the tray, no fixings.

All the wetroom glass panels I do are just the glass bonded to the tile with clear CT1. 👌. Nice and neat, with no profile for grot to accumulate in.

[Barnboy]

Trusted ct1 it is then.

I think that there's a plinth so I'll bond the end support panel with some batten and give a blob to each back foot.

Thank you

[JohnMo]

Fill your boots with a blob of glue, but doesn't do anything for you in reality.

 

The island unit with draw open will use the legs nearest the draw as a fulcrum point. At this point with all the units screwed together you are having to lift the whole 2.8m of island unit with a couple of dozen plates.

 

It's a bit like an elephant on one end the seesaw and a mouse at the other. The mouse being the plates. Do the maths. A quick calculation using best guess calculation based on, 

draws weighing 40kg with plates etc,

Draws pull out 400mm

Nearest feet 100mm in from unit edge of the island. 

The result is you only need 8kg at the other end of the seesaw. The end cupboard without worktop will weigh more than that. Without even consideration of the other units infilling the island and work top.

 

Your overthinking an issue that isn't real.

 

The shear strength of CT1 is 11kg/cm², gives more purchase than the small screws holding the legs to the kitchen unit. So the outcome if you had an issue, legs would stay fixed to floor, island unit would be in the air.